What have you done to your XS today?

Checked valve clearances and they were a bit off so I set those then checked my charging system, which was fine.

Afterwards I started up the bike and noticed a high pitched pinging sound coming from the engine. Not sure if it was there before and I didn't notice it, if it's normal, or if I set something wrong (though I did double check all my clearances). Thoughts? Kinda hard to hear but it's the best I can get with my phone.

https://streamable.com/2xnx8k
 
If you can, search in here for similar videos about noisy camchain front guides. Kinda sounds like that...
Watched a couple videos, yeah that's what it sounds like to me. Is that something that should be sorted out sooner than later, or is it just an annoying sound that can be ignored till the off season?
 
Watched a couple videos, yeah that's what it sounds like to me. Is that something that should be sorted out sooner than later, or is it just an annoying sound that can be ignored till the off season?
Have you tried adjusting the cam chain? It'll make that sound if it's loose. If it were me, I'd recheck the valves too. I been known to not get one right the first try. :rolleyes:
If it is your guide, it's gonna start wearing aluminum off it as it wears. People been known to run 'em like that for several thousands of miles by doing more frequent oil changes.
 
Have you tried adjusting the cam chain? It'll make that sound if it's loose. If it were me, I'd recheck the valves too. I been known to not get one right the first try. :rolleyes:
If it is your guide, it's gonna start wearing aluminum off it as it wears. People been known to run 'em like that for several thousands of miles by doing more frequent oil changes.
Nope, bit I just watched a video and it looks pretty quick and easy. I'm out of time for today but I'll check tomorrow
 
Was going to be getting a buddy to clean and rebuild my carbs with me (teaching me what to do), but realized that previous owner had the wrong spark plugs in the bike - was using the resistor plugs instead of the non-resistor ones. Couldn't find them locally so decided to put off the carbs until I get the right plugs in there.

Still going to check my cam chain tension later though, and I got in some new tools so that's exciting! 1/4 and 3/8 torque wrenches and a Gearwrench 1/2" 120xp ratchet. Truth be told, don't really need the ratchet, but I love my 3/8" one so much so... why not.
 
The correct spark plugs, the BP7ES, are normally available at most auto parts stores. If they can't find them listed under the "BP7ES" number, have them look them up by their #1034 stock number. Buy a 4 pack so you have spares. .....

klkH29p.jpg
 
The correct spark plugs, the BP7ES, are normally available at most auto parts stores. If they can't find them listed under the "BP7ES" number, have them look them up by their #1034 stock number. Buy a 4 pack so you have spares. .....

klkH29p.jpg
As far as I can tell they've been discontinued in Canada. A couple of online shops stock them but every store I called said they are discontinued and offer the resistor one as a sub
 
What Fred said. You need about 5K resistance. Don't matter if it's from the cap, the wire or the plug.
 
NAPA - Autolite # 63
I'll give Napa a call and see if they have em or not, thanks for the heads up.

Either way, not too big of a concern. I ordered them online this morning and they'll be here Wednesday, along with stainless brake line and a new master cylinder. I feel pretty confident my mechanic would have them on hand as well, he pretty well only works on old Honda's and Yamaha's, but he's on vacation right now
 
I'll give Napa a call and see if they have em or not, thanks for the heads up.
Either way, not too big of a concern. I ordered them online this morning and they'll be here Wednesday, along with stainless brake line and a new master cylinder. I feel pretty confident my mechanic would have them on hand as well, he pretty well only works on old Honda's and Yamaha's, but he's on vacation right now

Hi fix
IMHO the stock XS650 M/C piston is too big to work nice with a single caliper. The search box will find lotsa posts about a more suitable size..
 
Hi fix
IMHO the stock XS650 M/C piston is too big to work nice with a single caliper. The search box will find lotsa posts about a more suitable size..
Yep, I did some reading. Seems like the general opinion is the stock option isn't great and going to a smaller piston is a good idea, but after that there's lots of opinions. I went with an 11mm from Mike's, this one - https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-slimline-lightweight-master-cylinder.html - I think that plus the SS lines should be a pretty decent improvement, as well as looking much better than the angled MC on my flatter bars (pic of current bars with stock MC attached)
 

Attachments

  • 20200806_174424.jpg
    20200806_174424.jpg
    232.7 KB · Views: 150
After *bribing* my machinist with 2 COSTCO hotdogs (was headed there to get gas anyway)....we sat there on the phone with total seal for like 35 mins while his guy looked for the proper piston rings....finally. Said he was feeling better, eating more. So, left him with 2 dogs after I scarfed my 1 hot dog down and left knowing my odds n ends of stuff may get done. Cleaned the seat cover really well to take it to the shop with pan when it drys hard....and the found on Ebay another foam from a 'Speed & Sport , Inc. or "yamatopdog" on Ebay >>
YAMAHA XS1 XS2 TX650 SEAT PAN COVER FOAM LIKE NOS FOR USE WITH 366-24730-01-00
I've given up trying to find my seat hinge brackets. So, bought some more. Of course I will eventually find them and give Ebay even more business. Cleaned, zinc coated, taped up and painted the seat latch and clip bracket...taking too long over doing it. back to spoke hunting. :banghead:
 
Surfing the Kijiji found a $40 seat with diamond stitch. Figured, nice lines and profile will go take a look. Well took home and the fit wasn’t too bad. Gonna try out but will keep the Biltwell in case want to put back on. Probably just a cheap ebay or amazon but done hell of a lot worst with $40! :laugh2:
C7A8F383-E0CE-48B2-87E4-FBE55183FF2E.jpeg 14E8EB8C-D335-48F0-A12C-D8E28DB3B59B.jpeg
 
Got a couple really silly small things done - about wrapped up on the bottom end here, just waiting on a few small things to finish it up, and have read through the top end build thread that @Jim put together in anticipation of plugging the rest of this turd together. Here’s how it sits today. No kicker shaft or gears because it’s being deleted. I have no interest in kicking over a high comp cammed big bore, and prefer the visual absence of the kicker I anticipate. Friend of mine is machining me a press-fit, flush-mount plug for the side cover.

C4BBF760-5539-41A0-8139-57ADDC2A4160.jpeg


Now I have some questions...

1. Since I had 1mm oversized intake valves put into the head, I’m now questioning whether the valve reliefs on the intake side of the Hoos JE 750 pistons are going to be large enough. I’ve done oversized valves before and had the valve pocket fly cut to provide the correct relief, but before I call my machinist and ask if he took this into consideration, does anyone have experience with this very same combo?

2. Irrespective of what else may need to be done here, have any of you who have installed the Hoos 750 kit bothered to clay your pistons to make sure you have the right clearance and squish height? Anything stand out that needed attention afterward?

3. I don’t like the idea of using the stock JIS screws to affix the rear cam chain slider / tensioner base, so I used appropriately sized socket head M6 allen bolts with a drop of blue loctite and torqued them to 7.9 NM, which is the wet torque spec for an M6 bolt into aluminum. Seems like there won’t be even a hint of interference since the cylinder sleeves drop far below their level. See pic above and let me know if this is any kinda issue - I cannot see how it would be, but I may be missing something.

4. Anyone have a clean Type D or E cam chain tensioner they’d sell me?

THAT IS ALL!
 
Last edited:
Checked my cam chain adjustment and it seemed good to me, but now will need to wait till tomorrow to recheck my valve clearances. I believe I read people saying the bike needs to be 100% cold, like left over night?

Re-organized the tool chest though. I only have a small two drawer one and the new stuff yesterday pushed it over the limit of what it can hold and still be organized, so I went through some forum posts about all the needed wrench sizes and got rid of everything extra. I don't have a garage at my house so I keep my bike and tools in my parents garage, who live a few houses down the road. I like to keep as much on hand as I can to save running back and forth, but it feels good to have it paired down and neat.
 

Attachments

  • 20200811_095423.jpg
    20200811_095423.jpg
    218 KB · Views: 138
  • 20200811_095430.jpg
    20200811_095430.jpg
    211.7 KB · Views: 187
but now will need to wait till tomorrow to recheck my valve clearances. I believe I read people saying the bike needs to be 100% cold, like left over night?
Yes... the Yamaha book calls for cold clearances. Actually, they call it "room temperature" checks. :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top