Broken chain mystery

low horsepower and 530 chain, it isn't highly stressed as far as motorcycle use goes. I think the fairly small rear sprocket does mean it sees more torque per HP (but lower speed) than most other bikes that use larger rear sprockets.
 
I've run Izumi
There has to be some difference? A quick look said Izumi 530 runs from $40 to $90?
Or maybe there is no difference at all and Mikes will sell you a $40 chain for $80 if that is what you want to click on?
I will admit I only spent about 1 minute scrolling through the selections.
 
If you're going to stick with a standard chain, you might consider the D.I.D. From the research I did, they were rated as one of the best standard chains, tight tolerances and fit between all the parts. They can be had for around $40 off eBay. That's what I just put on mine. It's very nice so far but doesn't have many miles on it yet. It will take several years and many more miles for me to really know I guess. Or you could take a chance on one of these, could turn out to be a good one .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311691812998?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
OK I'm good with that. Back on track my extra used chain is an EK and looks to have all free links. YEAH. But is 108 links so will have to do some trimming.
 
...Diamond chain tensile strength selection guide (math required) 2M?
http://www.diamondchain.com/catalogs/diamond-chain-product-guide/#/6/

Okay. I seem to be stuck in my lazy-boy, so let's grind this out.
Here's the snippet from the Diamond Chain Guide:
DiamondChainGuide.jpg


We'll just use the XS1 engine max power spec of 53hp @ 7000rpm

Compute the rpms of the 17 tooth drive sprocket, at crank rpms of 7000:
Primary ratio = 27:72 = 0.375
1st gear (447) ratio = 14:32 = 0.437
5th gear ratio = 23:22 = 1.045

1st gear rpms = 7000 * 0.375 * 0.437 = 1147 rpms
5th gear rpms = 7000 * 0.375 * 1.045 = 2743 rpms

Drive sprocket = 17 tooth
Chain pitch = 5/8" (0.625")

Using the second formulae:
(There's an error in the published formulae, 39,600 should be 396,000)

Load chain/pull = (horsepower * 396000) / (chain pitch * sprocket teeth * sprocket rpm)

For 1st gear:
Load chain/pull = (53 * 39600) / (0.625 * 17 * 1147)
Load chain/pull = 1722 lbs

For 5th gear:
Load chain/pull = (53 * 39600) / (0.625 * 17 * 2743)
Load chain/pull = 720 lbs

To get the Minimum Ultimate Tensile Strength (MUTS), multiply by 6x, and 9x (for slip-fit links)

1st gear: 1722 lbs pull, x6 = 10,332 lbs, x9 = 15,498 lbs

5th gear: 720 lbs pull, x6 = 4,320 lbs, x9 = 6,480 lbs

From the D.I.D. catalog:
Standard duty chains with 2mm side plates have a nominal tensile strength of 6,930 lbs.
Heavy duty chains with 2.4mm side plates have a nominal tensile strength of 8,600 lbs, and 4x life expectancy.
Pro X-ring chains with 2.2mm side plates have a nominal tensile strength of 9,220 lbs, and 38x life expectancy.
Super X-ring chains with 2.4-2.6mm side plates have a nominal tensile strength of 10,408 lbs, and 40x life expectancy.

Looks like chain strain can occur in the bottom gears (drag racing and wheelies)...
 
Thanks 2M and the Barcalounger! (or LazyBoy?)
To be clear Diamond is selling industrial chain they don't even mention motorcycles on the web site.
But I like a formula to compare the loads our bike puts on a chain.
The other makers kinda use a generic 1000cc that all of their chains will handle and the monster class 1400 for their strongest chains guide line. Wonder if they are taking the HP levels of the latest sport bikes into consideration?
 
Yeah, that formulae has a very generous safety margin. It states that at 50% MUTS permanent damage can occur. For the #530 chains, we'd need about 120-150 horsepower to do that.

I wasn't aware of the touted 38-40x life expectancies of the x-ring chains. Seems that good, periodic lubrication is the deciding make/break factor for non-sealed chains.

I've seen chain with sideplates thinner than 2mm, much weaker, not on the charts. WER, can you measure your sideplate thicknesses?
 
My chain experience...........I was buying non-sealed chains based on tensile strength, didn't work for me. My test subject was my son and a Maxim 650 and an '81 750 Custom. This guy could rip through those chains in no time, making adjustment and maintenance impossible to keep up with, sprockets and chain. Then I switched to RK RX-Ring Chain, 530XSOZ1. Initial adjustment and another adjustment soon later is all that this chain needed. I wash it and lube it just enough to keep them from rusting, no more excessive lube to sling around and virtually no wear noticed four years later with thousands and thousands of miles and no broken O-rings on my garage floor like the first generations of O-ring chains that I've used. I will never consider another chain option again.

Scott
 
IMG_20160925_112917_216.jpg
Inside or outside, same o same o. A tich over two mm.
Dirt/grime/grit can probably account for the tich.
 
Madness has an old DID X ring chain of unremembered provenance. Great chain no issues BUT it's discontinued, came with a clip type master link and the masterlink x-rings are long gone/dead. Over squeezing the link with a chain breaker to get the clip back on may have been the final straw. the ML pins show some roughness and rust, polished them greased and reinstalled. I have been tossing some of the mcmaster-carr square o-rings from an (unsuccessful) throttle shaft seal experiment on it, but they aren't happy there, and tend to squeeze out. More carefully put on fresh set of those and ran it to the ozarks and back. Otherwise the chain still seems "as new." In yet another tungsten disulfide "experiment" I cleaned then dusted the custom aluminum sprocket teeth with it. Lubed with chain wax before the 2K trip, while at the Ozarks looked to see, the ML o-rings were still there, and smeared it with a dab of grease. May put Madness on the lift and see if a Chinese o-ring masterlink off fleabay that just showed up fits, check everything over today. For my money x-ring chain is the way to go if cross country is in the plans. caveat you can't run O or X ring chain with an 18 tooth front sprocket, the wider heavier links won't clear. Though I found where XSJohn deleted the shift shaft cover and ground a notch in the shaft to provide chain room!
 
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About 8,000 miles later that X ring chain is still on madness. After I changed to a Suzuki spoke rear wheel got about 5,000 miles out of an aluminum sprocket, changed it more to go down a tooth than it being completely worn out. The masterlink safety wire trick is still going strong!
I like cleaning my chain with lots of mineral spirits, rags, a chain brush, then lubing with moly based grease on a brush.
safety wire master link.jpg
 
Okay, so I'm still one of the bike riders from the 1960's when I had no money. If you look at a worn sprocket you will see machine marks on the unpowered side. Many sprockets can be flipped when the new chain is installed.
I look for chain lube that is like solvent when applied so it penetrates the rollers then thickens as the solvent evaporates. PJ1!
I noticed my Triumph leaking oil. It turned out to be chain lube. Too much is okay, I guess. The Renolds chain has 12,000 miles and it shows little wear.
Like Gary, I safety wire my master clip.
Think of a master clip as a fish. It must swim head first.
Gordon, was it you who suggested an extra master link? I clip an extra on my clutch cables. Did you ever show these guys your homemade luggage on your Victor? :)

Tt
 
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Okay, so I'm still one of the bike riders from the 1960's when I had no money. If you look at a worn sprocket you will see machine marks on the unpowered side. Many sprockets can be flipped when the new chain is installed.
I look for chain lube that is like solvent when applied so it penetrates the rollers then thickens as the solvent evaporates. PJ1!
I noticed my Triumph leaking oil. It turned out to be chain lube. Too much is okay, I guess. The Renolds chain has 12,000 miles and it shows little wear.
Like Gary, I safety wire my master clip.
Think of a master clip as a fish. It must swim head first.
Gordon, was it you who suggested an extra master link? I clip an extra on my clutch cables. Did you ever show these guys your homemade luggage on your Victor? :)

Tt
Hi Tom,
back in the day I always carried a little square can of "Renold Chainspares" in case of need.
These days I don't.
My XS650's #530 sprockets & O-ring chain were installed as a set and are continuously lubricated with a ScottOiler.
I switched the Oiler from the costly lube it came with to chainsaw bar oil at 1/5th the price.
10.000 miles after Oiler install the chain tension ain't changed.
I reckon that chain longevity depends more on continuous lubrication than on what it'd lubed with.
 
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