Leak from oil pipe on fresh rebuild

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TAlber8

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Very fresh rebuild, I’m having trouble stopping a leak from the base of the oil delivery pipe. It is definitely between the case and copper washer.

this hole was recently repaired with an insert. Previously the threads tore out when the pipe was removed.

I used a fresh correct metric copper washer. I’m uncomfortably applying more force to it as it’s already had issues and it’s an insert. I couldn’t find a torque Value in the book but I’m putting quite a bit on it. (I don’t have a crows foot in 22mm for torque wrench, just using long combination wrench)

I had also tried removing it and using a file to gently try to remove and possible powdercoat that was left on it. (Used another new copper washer on install.

Im considering Removing it, and using case sealer around base of threads... Any better ideas?
 

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Yes some srt of sealer, I'm an old plumber so use teflon pipe dope to seal threaded fittings.
Dope comes inatube it's a thick paste. When working under a sink use dope on every fitting, thread, and seal both supply and waste. ;)
 
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Only difference between white and yellow teflon tape is the thickness of the tape.
 
Two key points on the use of Teflon(tm) tape in precision assemblies such as engines and hydraulic system components:
  • be sure to wrap the tape in the direction of tightening (so that it doesn't unwrap as you tighten the fitting), AND;
  • be sure that the tape is not wrapped over the end of the fitting where a strip could be cut-off and get into the oil system (i.e. start the tape a couple of threads "up" from the end of the fitting).
Both of these points are important, but particularly the second (IMO).

If you start the tape right on the first thread of the fitting - or worse, over the end of it - that little strip of tape will be sheared off as you tighten the fitting and it WILL block oil passages in the engine (and you will cry).

Pete
 
MaxPete said:
  • be sure to wrap the tape in the direction of tightening (so that it doesn't unwrap as you tighten the fitting), AND;
  • be sure that the tape is not wrapped over the end of the fitting where a strip could be cut-off and get into the oil system (i.e. start the tape a couple of threads "up" from the end of the fitting).
Both of these points are important, but particularly the second (IMO).

If you start the tape right on the first thread of the fitting - or worse, over the end of it - that little strip of tape will be sheared off as you tighten the fitting and it WILL block oil passages in the engine (and you will cry).
Click to expand...

+++ On all Pete's comments. Take it from someone who's made all those mistakes and learned the hard way (thankfully not on my 650)
 
Pipe dope didn’t work. Cleaned all threads extremely well before used a crus washer for a drain plug this time too, no luck.
 
locktite make a product for that, I think it’s 567, I used it recently to seal a Pingel fuel tap to adapter plate thread that was previously sealed with teflon tape, teflon worked for a while but I think the fuel got to it after a while, so far so good with the locktite.
 
I had a leak on the upper threaded connection (nut on oil tube) used yellow and sealed. Also used on leaking petcock at tank, sealed. That is what we used on diesel fuel lines for fire pumps. No issues.
 
The other stuff that is great on joints that see gasoline and engine oil is called Hylomar Blue. It was developed by Rolls Royce for use on aero engines and is quite amazing.

You can buy it on-line from aviation supply places - not too expensive and a small tube goes a looong way.
 
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Laco 11175 Pipe tite sealant has worked great for me for a lot of stuff. Brake line fittings have never leaked after I swiped a bit on the threads.
 
If the motor is strong, the odds of going back in low, clean, use a two part epoxy. LET IT CURE, move on. I've been using rubber bumper epoxy in areas that need a bit of flex. It's solved problems where "brittle" set epoxies don't do well.
 
Ok think we’re good. I used case sealant at the base and let it set overnight. Seems to be containing it.
Onto the next leak! Lol. I took so much care into prepping gasket surfaces, new seals everywhere... and still have small leaks.
 
I know that you have this fixed already but I might add that if he used a good insert like a helicoil you can tighten the crap out of that and it will be okay. It's probably stronger than the original aluminum threads.

Also the crush washer doesn't crush until you feel that feeling that feels just like stripping out the bolt. like you're pushing really hard and then it gets way too easy for a second and then hard again. That's when you know you properly crushed the crush washer
 

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