What have you done to your XS today?

Want to check seeing as I'm new to the forum and don't know the ropes here yet - there isn't a thread for stupid questions that don't really deserve their own posts. Is it cool if I ask that stuff in here?
Example - my new master cylinder and stainless brake lines came in, I assumed it would all come with crush washers (don't know why I thought that, but oh well), but only the m/c did. I don't have a way to measure accurately and am not seeing the specs - is it 10mm washers I need for the brake lines? I saw somebody claiming that it's dangerous to use aluminum crush washers but don't understand why that would be... is that true and I need copper or does it not matter? Going to be calling around to see what I can find in town.

Hi fixthe,
there are no stupid questions, although there may be sarcastic replies.
Crush washers are hollow, are of circular cross-section when new and squash flat when they are used,
Your oil drain plug washers are like that.
The brake line washers ain't crush washers. They are plain washers made out of copper and yes, they have a 10mm bore.
Most likely the 10mm bore copper automotive washers you'll find in town will be thinner and have a larger outside diameter.
But they'll still work OK if your local bike store don't stock the correct ones.
And yes, I dunno why aluminum washers would be dangerous either.
 
Yabut! What about copper, Fred? We ain't usin' carbon steel washers on brake lines. I used to teach this stuff in A&P school and I swear I don't remember any of it. Fred, you must of done a lot of it over the years.

Hi marty,
my post to Jim was about quenching steel and was admittedly a little off topic.
AFAIK annealed copper stays annealed. What quenching copper does is pop off the outer oxide layer so it looks nice.
Also if you're annealing a whole bunch of copper parts it makes it easy to see which of them ain't been done yet.
 
(Remember the stores guys keeping the rivets in the fridge on weekends?)
D and DD rivets Fred. They age harden. To prevent premature hardening (before use) they're annealed and quickly frozen.... that suspends the age hardening process until they're used. We called 'em "icebox rivets."
Copper and silver don't follow the normal rules. Air cooling or quenching makes 'em no never mind... they'll anneal either way. I was always led to believe the quench was the preferred of the two methods.
 
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Do you have the old copper washers? You can anneal them. Heat them to red hot and quench in water. I'm not even really sure you have to quench. I have conflicting info on that. Go with quench. I string them on a piece of stainless wire and heat with a propane torch or you can use the burner on the gas stove in your kitchen.
I still have whatever is on there, I haven't taken off the old brake line yet. Can't really see them though so I don't know if they are copper or aluminum... but it looks like this is a moot point. Turns out I was too sleepy when I was making the order and ordered regular brake line instead of stainless, so I'll order what I actually want and grab washers at the same time.

Hi fixthe,
The brake line washers ain't crush washers. They are plain washers made out of copper and yes, they have a 10mm bore.
Most likely the 10mm bore copper automotive washers you'll find in town will be thinner and have a larger outside diameter.
But they'll still work OK if your local bike store don't stock the correct ones.
And yes, I dunno why aluminum washers would be dangerous either.
Oh, good to know! As I was reading up I saw a few people call them crush washers and I hadn't seen the ones currently on there yet. Looks like I was wrong about the copper/aluminum (maybe) - this is the post I was thinking about. It's talking about "fittings" but I'm not sure what that is in the context here. Because it's about aluminum and copper my brain went to washers but I don't actually know.

And in regards to "there are no stupid questions, although there may be sarcastic replies." - on some of the forums/subreddits I'm on there is a stickied "There are no stupid questions" thread where people can ask quick stuff like this that would otherwise clog up the main feed. That's more what I'm talking about - for quick little questions like the washer thing would the mods and users prefer I ask that here or make a dedicated thread?

*edit* Actually, what do you guys think - should I just pop the brake line I received on the bike, use for a couple years then switch to SS? If I'm reading right, I shouldn't notice a big difference between new rubber lines and stainless, the big difference is longevity. It's not an expensive item so it doesn't really make sense to pay shipping to return them if I don't have to.
 
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[QUOTE="*edit* Actually, what do you guys think - should I just pop the brake line I received on the bike, use for a couple years then switch to SS? If I'm reading right, I shouldn't notice a big difference between new rubber lines and stainless, the big difference is longevity. It's not an expensive item so it doesn't really make sense to pay shipping to return them if I don't have to.[/QUOTE]
I respectfully disagree with that. When I switched to the SS braided lines from stock lines, I noticed WAY better braking.
 
Waiting for my USPS tracking to tell me to ride my bicycle to the PO to pick up both seat brackets...both there but only one is in the PO box...lol, logistics these days quite remarkable and a 2 edged sword. Riding me bicycle cause I don't have a moto-bike and too late yesterday, me car said it wants a new thermostat or it will really spoil my summer. cut grass >> start sanding, polishing outer engine cases...My rings are here :)
 
- - - Actually, what do you guys think - should I just pop the brake line I received on the bike, use for a couple years then switch to SS? If I'm reading right, I shouldn't notice a big difference between new rubber lines and stainless, the big difference is longevity. It's not an expensive item so it doesn't really make sense to pay shipping to return them if I don't have to.

Hi fix,
what I'd do is put those rubber lines and their intermediate connector on my "parts to swap" shelf
and buy a single full length wire braid hose to run from the lever to the caliper.
 
Hi fix,
what I'd do is put those rubber lines and their intermediate connector on my "parts to swap" shelf
and buy a single full length wire braid hose to run from the lever to the caliper.
Not a bad idea
If your new MC is the same bore as stock, rubber line is fine. But if you are going to a reduced bore MC for better brake feel/power, then the SS line is highly preferred/mandatory.
What would make it mandatory? I went down to 11mm
 
Not a bad idea

What would make it mandatory? I went down to 11mm
I believe your 11mm MC will make a good improvement in brake feel by increasing pressure, power (the ratio is higher) the down side of that is; a smaller MC piston moves less VOLUME of brake fluid. So I'd strongly suggest the stainless. Stainless (teflon liner) brake line flexes much less than rubber so the reduced MC volume movement doesn't get used up stretching a rubber hose. A rubber hose on a small MC might have your handle hitting the grip before full brakes are applied.
Getting all the air out when bleeding becomes more important also. I have converted many older bikes to SS lines and smaller MC's, been happy every time, so far.
 
I believe your 11mm MC will make a good improvement in brake feel by increasing pressure, power (the ratio is higher) the down side of that is; a smaller MC piston moves less VOLUME of brake fluid. So I'd strongly suggest the stainless. Stainless (teflon liner) brake line flexes much less than rubber so the reduced MC volume movement doesn't get used up stretching a rubber hose. A rubber hose on a small MC might have your handle hitting the grip before full brakes are applied.
Getting all the air out when bleeding becomes more important also. I have converted many older bikes to SS lines and smaller MC's, been happy every time, so far.
Makes sense, thanks.
 
Amazing how one says they're going t do something and do something else...outer case will wait. I picked my head lamp 1st time since May and just cringed...gotta mail it to the painter...Also, picked up my tail light assembly and cringed...gotta clean this up...some rust specs right where the sun shines SEE pics. I'm just wondering and ask before I brake this but does the mirror and bulb holder detach from the backing? Just going to toss it in the Evapo-Rust over night if not.:umm: :agree: or :hellno:. man, after cutting grass it poured now sun has been back out >> steam bath. Not going back in garage.:hellno:
Doing to many things at once...verifying 1978 French bike tubing I can't find a repro decal for on forks...photos..google translator...3 hrs ago, thought I'd be doing paperwork:hellno:... my $50 find is quite interesting...as much as this Yamaha. >>https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/1978-motobecane-grande-jubilee-mixte-42308
 

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Lol, thanks, won't manhandle it further....
OK, now it sleeps with the Evapo-Rust and it's little buddies the chrome fork upper tube caps and washers...
Found even more black parts to paint. I've actually never seen a early model XS 650. Question: This aluminum upper fork brace I just cleaned, sanded a bit and shot with that black semi-gloss..It seems to have had a more flat to satin black finish. Is that correct? That's what I found on mine, old but original. I hit it w/ the last of Rustoleum semi-gloss with high zinc. The other part I hit with the dk. grey high zinc primer...high gloss it later.
 

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QUICK QUESTION FOR YALL
What's the best way to polish/paint/powder-coat the lower half of the front forks? Thanks for any help you can provide!
 
Lol, thanks, won't manhandle it further....
OK, now it sleeps with the Evapo-Rust and it's little buddies the chrome fork upper tube caps and washers...
Found even more black parts to paint. I've actually never seen a early model XS 650. Question: This aluminum upper fork brace I just cleaned, sanded a bit and shot with that black semi-gloss..It seems to have had a more flat to satin black finish. Is that correct? That's what I found on mine, old but original. I hit it w/ the last of Rustoleum semi-gloss with high zinc. The other part I hit with the dk. grey high zinc primer...high gloss it later.


I go back and forth between gloss and semigloss on those parts. Gloss then go over it with regular, not fine, rubbing compound seems to hit pretty close.
 
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