What have you done to your XS today?

QUICK QUESTION FOR YALL
What's the best way to polish/paint/powder-coat the lower half of the front forks? Thanks for any help you can provide!
POR-15 Direct to Metal Top Coat
I believe the clear is what used to be called Glisten PC. My fork lowers were painted with it 15 to 20 years ago. Once and done. The stuff is bullet proof. It's still as clear today as when I first applied it. I was showing it off at the Ozark Rally, so maybe somebody will be my witness.
Not long after applying it, I crossed Mobile Bay ("Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!") on the ferry. Me on the bike was loaded first. We got splashed heavily with seawater. The forks were protected and the chrome tolerated it. The unprotected engine cases corroded almost instantly.
 
I had my aluminum engine cases polished to a chrome look at one time, if I did that again and put a clear coat on would they stay, and how much would it take away from the shine chrome look?
 
I had my aluminum engine cases polished to a chrome look at one time, if I did that again and put a clear coat on would they stay, and how much would it take away from the shine chrome look?
The link I posted, that stuff will stay. I think it will outlast me. What I used was Glisten PC, and I believe the product in the link replaced it. The Glisten PC required an etch with Metal Prep, and that killed the shine a little. Instructions still say Por-15 Metal Prep. My forks have a much brighter finish than stock, but not the mirror finish on my Eleven Special with bare forks.
 
Nothing horribly exciting - flushed my brake fluid. Been waffling back and forth on what to do with my misordered brake line but my mechanic just got back from vacation so I gave him a call and it sounds like he should have the right length stainless lines on hand, so I'll go check that out this week. So in the meantime I flushed my brake fluid, as I haven't done it before. Wasn't too bad. Worst part was trying to get my slanted MC straight now that I don't have the buckhorn bars on... But that won't be a problem when I get the new one on.

Rest of my parts showed up today - centrestand, headlight, swingarm bushings and swingarm boot tube. I'll probably do the centrestand after work but the rest will have to wait. Looks like the swingarm can be a hassle so I'll have to wait till I have some more free time, and I can't solder so headlight will wait until I can have a buddy come down and give me a hand quick.
 

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The link I posted, that stuff will stay. I think it will outlast me. What I used was Glisten PC, and I believe the product in the link replaced it. The Glisten PC required an etch with Metal Prep, and that killed the shine a little. Instructions still say Por-15 Metal Prep. My forks have a much brighter finish than stock, but not the mirror finish on my Eleven Special with bare forks.

Above is what it looks like dirty and after about 20 years. Also, it was applied with a brush, which I don't recommend.
 
Yow, that's nice. I didn't think it would keep the shine if I clear coated, nice.
Now I have to polish all my aluminum again. My forks are okay I'm not going to mess w them now, but engine covers, tapped covers, clutch and alternator sprocket cover.
 
Interesting ggggggGary. painted yet another shiny black part, hopefully the last..seat hing. Thanks DogBunny. Keep parting for parts. Sitting here thinking I have 177K mi. on my daily don't drive that much driver car. wonder how many peeps still have an XS 650 with going on 200K mi? I've heard of such but don't believe it...talking about what have you done..gotta go din din.
 
That's a thought, I wonder what is a high mileage on an xs650 with no rebuild, or actually without having to take the motor out of the frame?
I have about 21,3??mi Last I took notice. I'm starting to think my front cam chain guide is going tho.
 
I wonder what is a high mileage on an xs650

I’ve read three guys on here , that I know of that profess to have over 100,000 miles on their bikes, some well over.
XSJohn said he turned over 70,000 miles on his bike with an original motor. A bunch of guys said they had between 30K to 50K. But I believe the majority would fall under 20,000.
 
I’ve read three guys on here , that I know of that profess to have over 100,000 miles on their bikes, some well over.
XSJohn said he turned over 70,000 miles on his bike with an original motor. A bunch of guys said they had between 30K to 50K. But I believe the majority would fall under 20,000.
57K on mine, so far.
 
I’ve read three guys on here , that I know of that profess to have over 100,000 miles on their bikes, some well over.
XSJohn said he turned over 70,000 miles on his bike with an original motor. A bunch of guys said they had between 30K to 50K. But I believe the majority would fall under 20,000.
The XS I had when I lived in Florida had 10-15K when I bought it. Over 60K when I sold it about 4 yrs later. Never pulled the motor.
 
I'm going to sort out my "256" clutch pack, bought 7 new 'hi-po' friction plates and a couple of replacement steel discs from mike's. Decided now to also replace the springs. Now have some Barnett # 501-58-06045 clutch spring. These springs are 10 mm longer than what I pulled out that are all about 35 mm. I saw this on Barnett and :umm:.....stagger longs and original shorter springs.. : Springs
"Another area that is essential to proper clutch operation is adequate clutch spring tension. Weak or fatigued springs are a prime cause of clutch slippage and premature wear. However, poor clutch action can not always be solved by increasing spring tension. Many factors can figure into clutch slippage - such as worn or warped friction or metal plates, pressure plate and/or hub wear, cable stretch or flex, faulty hydraulic systems (where equipped), or improper adjustment of actuator. Excessively heavy springs can also cause problems such as stress or fatigue to clutch activators, case covers, center hub, damage to the pressure plate, broken post, or cable stretch - as well as being very hard on your left hand! One helpful hint for dialing in your clutch is to alternate the stock springs with heavy duty springs. This can be done on applications that have an even number of clutch springs (4, 6, etc.). When doing this, it is important that the springs are alternated so the pressure is distributed evenly. This will also keep the clutch lever pull from being overly stiff." Humm, at worst using 3 Barnett and 3 Yamaha I may be back at nominal fresh Yamaha spring rate or maybe 5-6% higher. Barnett say springs rate 10-15% higher than OEM. Length of the new springs give me pause.

Speaking of pause, I looked at the following Ft. spoke set from Niche-cycle on Ebay..$26...I paused at that price since May. I looked again this AM and , lol, paused. Anyone have a bad experience of any sort with them? : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-TX5...b:g:H2AAAOSwAQVcGAz-:sc:FedEx2Day!34232!US!-1
 
I'm going to sort out my "256" clutch pack, bought 7 new 'hi-po' friction plates and a couple of replacement steel discs from mike's. Decided now to also replace the springs. Now have some Barnett # 501-58-06045 clutch spring. These springs are 10 mm longer than what I pulled out that are all about 35 mm. I saw this on Barnett and :umm:.....stagger longs and original shorter springs.. : Springs
"Another area that is essential to proper clutch operation is adequate clutch spring tension. Weak or fatigued springs are a prime cause of clutch slippage and premature wear. However, poor clutch action can not always be solved by increasing spring tension. Many factors can figure into clutch slippage - such as worn or warped friction or metal plates, pressure plate and/or hub wear, cable stretch or flex, faulty hydraulic systems (where equipped), or improper adjustment of actuator. Excessively heavy springs can also cause problems such as stress or fatigue to clutch activators, case covers, center hub, damage to the pressure plate, broken post, or cable stretch - as well as being very hard on your left hand! One helpful hint for dialing in your clutch is to alternate the stock springs with heavy duty springs. This can be done on applications that have an even number of clutch springs (4, 6, etc.). When doing this, it is important that the springs are alternated so the pressure is distributed evenly. This will also keep the clutch lever pull from being overly stiff." Humm, at worst using 3 Barnett and 3 Yamaha I may be back at nominal fresh Yamaha spring rate or maybe 5-6% higher. Barnett say springs rate 10-15% higher than OEM. Length of the new springs give me pause.

Speaking of pause, I looked at the following Ft. spoke set from Niche-cycle on Ebay..$26...I paused at that price since May. I looked again this AM and , lol, paused. Anyone have a bad experience of any sort with them? : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-TX500-XS1-XS650-Rear-Wheel-White-Zinc-Spoke-Kit-256-25304-00-00/152729763755?fits=Year:1972|Model:XS2|Submodel:Street+Twin+650|Make:Yamaha&hash=item238f673fab:g:H2AAAOSwAQVcGAz-:sc:FedEx2Day!34232!US!-1

I have no experience with those spokes, but I have bought many items from that seller with no problems.
 
eO0we-CY9YsOfZOF4SGdrQEUWe4jpk1C9SJM7G5BH84AqyvI0GHha4yYuHpLb-LDw7cthXa6SSRYN9zKczB0x1bCkv1FA73DcNbb1dIt0xmZuUpgkIGlOQtSdQ4cfcr9mQpv5jCfIQc4KBnrryOogAgUmUN0D_5W1mpeeJa7hpDpCl0EwRYGPHqAmFDHUzOxLyXsUXEQlZzku8KvTdxyr_hs1xte9J1VTWFrE48e7HBMlvTkTDDAadYut7_sXr3mu6o8OGXPyuJwplqpgZ7m9sb8MhNLoLuaXjhM7IoQkEPtBcGFSjzYoDbc17OnWgYqwFvmNTiRks026iJ8y2LuyZT4D_jZ419W2NCnTMxbX59icVKKRea3tyRw--sSd23e20BAUmrratNSEdSm040Xo85yzmuRa-1O4kIAbmQNR-BSLjJZ8CeLFQDkridYGBjeKc9RS_MnZObe8kOzdGdZ33EY1EAZjk1DiFtl7-8U10WU013I3MA-cucQ2_GD-zocV64TBj9l9k6qQx2Orl-f3zsRQIWoML-WIsFozutJ_Y7D3dxYsVGp8HDuN3C4S5Mbz-zjKEQNPCbSLcbapE9e2SPTiyz-jTR0Px2NcVK8cWpaSYx01ZODL0hBsS-FXepS56pZyMppT_lDyHKOKPCy8C_W_xKQDG1P_J3bW0-oa3aEGWqXp5qPEaY9FTdq-A=w1684-h1263-no

QUICK QUESTION FOR YALL
What's the best way to polish/paint/powder-coat the lower half of the front forks? Thanks for any help you can provide!

Hi matty,
there is no best.
What I did is remove the lowers to paint-strip & polish them.
Touching up the shine with metal polish now and then can be done on the bike.
 
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