painting fuel tank

john69

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I am the owner of a 1981 650. It seems to be in go shape and runs fine. The only issue I have is with the appearance of the fuel tank and I plan painting it. I have two questions right now but I am certain there will be more to follow.
1) What is the best or preferred method of removing the old paint? Sand paper and elbow grease, chemical paint remover, blasting with some sort of media?
2) After perusing this site for a similar factory color I came up "ruby red" but I am not sure how that would translate to an actual order at the paint supply house. Any idea's not a specific color for ordering?
 
I am the owner of a 1981 650. It seems to be in go shape and runs fine. The only issue I have is with the appearance of the fuel tank and I plan painting it. I have two questions right now but I am certain there will be more to follow.
1) What is the best or preferred method of removing the old paint? Sand paper and elbow grease, chemical paint remover, blasting with some sort of media?
2) After perusing this site for a similar factory color I came up "ruby red" but I am not sure how that would translate to an actual order at the paint supply house. Any idea's not a specific color for ordering?
Check out Jim's thread "Painting Tins. No really"
it's long but he's good and he explains it all in detail
 
30 years ago I used paint stripper and it was excellent. The last tank I started with stripper but it was too messy and slow due to no methylene chloride. So I used a knotted wire wheel on a small angle grinder and it was excellent. But beware, a knotted wheel will remove metal if pushed too hard or held in one place too long. Here's a video on the subject:
When the methylene chloride was removed or reduced the stripping action was reduced. The methylene chloride is what does the work so the idea of covering the tank to stop the stripper drying out works well.
 
30 years ago I used paint stripper and it was excellent. The last tank I started with stripper but it was too messy and slow due to no methylene chloride. So I used a knotted wire wheel on a small angle grinder and it was excellent. But beware, a knotted wheel will remove metal if pushed too hard or held in one place too long. Here's a video on the subject:
When the methylene chloride was removed or reduced the stripping action was reduced. The methylene chloride is what does the work so the idea of covering the tank to stop the stripper drying out works well.
Very helpful and timely. I have to strip the floor of my boat and need a good paint stripper for it. Last stripping job was on my trailer, and I used Naval Jelly, but that's more for rusty metal.
 
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It's easier to make paint stick to paint than to bare metal, so personally I would sand the old paint but not remove it. Let the factory paint do the hard work
 
Agree with Mr xjwmx, rub the old paint back until the base metal starts to ghost through.
Fill any dents, dings and scrapes and rub back.
Give the filled parts a light coat of primer and rub that back which will highlight any low or high spots.
When you are happy that all surfaces are smooth apply the primer and let dry for several days to allow it to settle.
Another light flat then the top coat is ready to go on.

You will be aiming to get cover with the minimum of paint. Too thick and you risk runs and sags. Also when the paint has hardened it will also chip easier and in extreme cases start to craze.
 
I used clean strip from home depot brush on gel. Worked great.
 

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Hi John:
All good advice above on stripping.

As for paint colours - here is a good technique to get the right match:
  • all automotive paint on new cars has a paint code - and it is normally printed on a sticker on the inside of the driver's door jam and, while there is lots of info there on things like tire pressures etc., you are normally looking for "Ext" which is short for exterior colour (YMMV according to car brand);
  • the paint code may be just two letters (I know that 1994 Miata dark green is code HU, for instance) or it may be a more complex mix of letters and numbers;
  • when you see a car that matches the colour you like - just ask the driver if they would give you a peek at the sticker and snap a photo of it (I know this sounds weird but I have done it and nobody has ever refused me);
  • take the photo to an automotive body shop supply place and simply ask them to mix you up a couple of spray cans (or a quart of liquid paint if you have a spray gun available);
The spray cans will cost around $20-30 each and I'd guess that two cans would easily cover a fuel tank and set of side covers with several coats (several thin coats are better than one thick coat BTW). Once you have the parts painted with the right colour, you really should clearcoat them and a 2-part (sometimes known as a "2K") spray clearcoat is best because it will protect the colour coats against fuel, tree saps etc. etc. Two-part clearcoat is available in spray cans at autobody places or on-line and again, one or two cans should do it.

NOTE: two-part clear coats are a whole topic on their own and require a little planning and knowhow - so I would urge you to check out some YouTube videos on that whole issue.

The best paint thread is, by far, the one by Jim noted above. In fact, after doing a fair bit of research on painting my own tins, I actually asked Jim to do it and he has done a superb job - although my tins are now trapped at his home in the US while the other parts of both bikes are at my place in Canada - dammit.

Anyhow, keep us posted with photos of how this goes!

Pete
 
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