So 5 hours later I did take r up n down the road. All that's done seems good.
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Zall the turd gets polished.
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
PS the Tyronics install on a points motor is as simple as it can be. Remove points plate, and points cam from advance rod, install tytronics plate and cam. Remove condensers and points from harness, plug in the color matched tyronic wires where the points were connected to the coils. You do need to provide +12 to the tytronics. I made a simple Y jumper so the coil +12 feed also provides power for the tytronic unit, done. I set it fairly retarded for initial start then dialed it in with the timing light. Bingo, bango.
My fairly retarded "guess" actually showed advanced timing with the light, the motor seemed quite happy at that advanced timing for the short time I ran it that way. Maybe better than when I set it to the standard timing, I may play with the timing more later.
My fairly retarded "guess" actually showed advanced timing with the light, the motor seemed quite happy at that advanced timing for the short time I ran it that way. Maybe better than when I set it to the standard timing, I may play with the timing more later.
That Tytronic looks like a nice replacement for the old original Pamco unit. Do you have one in regular service on a daily rider yet?
I think you should investigate that non-working tach right away. Make sure it's just a bad cable or the tach unit and not because the tach drive rod isn't spinning. If the rod isn't spinning, the oil pump may not be either.
I think you should investigate that non-working tach right away. Make sure it's just a bad cable or the tach unit and not because the tach drive rod isn't spinning. If the rod isn't spinning, the oil pump may not be either.
yeah oil pump crossed my mind on the list of todos.
This will be a tytronics test. my first one puked quickly on the 70 (warranteed) but they have been redesigned since...
It's getting a new front tire and will see if I can get a working brake also. one axle clamp stud is MIA.....
test dummy in chief.
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Yes, I would investigate that tach issue before running the bike anymore. I recently helped a guy with a '72 he was fixing up. He rebuilt the motor and was having trouble dialing in the carbs and timing/points. I noticed as I was tuning it that the tach wasn't working. Then it dawned on me that could mean the tach rod and oil pump weren't either. Sure enough, removing the tach cable showed the tach rod wasn't spinning. He had gone through the oil pump but apparently assembled it incorrectly, leaving out the locating key on the big gear. He "lunched" his whole new topend and had to redo it. It's funny, it didn't sound bad sitting there idling, not excessively noisy like it had no oil on top, but I guess bad things were happening in there, lol.
You may have had a leaky fork seal for awhile if the brake looks like this.
5t you can rest easy now, drive and cable good, tach is stuck, hmmm never seen that before.
MC should be eazy.
Caliper is junk, piston stuck. Yeah yeah yeah but i got better'uns.
5t you can rest easy now, drive and cable good, tach is stuck, hmmm never seen that before.
MC should be eazy.
Caliper is junk, piston stuck. Yeah yeah yeah but i got better'uns.
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Here's an idea for ya, Gary: pull the gear driven clocks off Madness, mount the Veypor data logger on her, and give the tach to Roadkill.
MC parts practically fell out.
And back together.
Gary, are you using factory coils with the Tytronic unit? I have a factory set in my stash that are in unknown state. They came off my ‘78 that was non running when i bought it 10 years ago. I’d like to fit an upgraded set but am not sure what is out there that may work well as substitute.
Yes factory coils.
Your chain may not owe you anything if the pins look like this.
Took about 2 hours to get the rear axle out, the sprocket side spacer was seriously rusted to the axle, had the swing arm braced to the wall with a 2x4 and used a 5 pound mall on the axle end many times before it finally moved. All parts are reusable. One sprocket bolt was busted off part way down the hole, tomorrow's project is getting that out then new tire, sprocket, and chain, back together. 'spose i oughta do the swing arm pivot too.
Took about 2 hours to get the rear axle out, the sprocket side spacer was seriously rusted to the axle, had the swing arm braced to the wall with a 2x4 and used a 5 pound mall on the axle end many times before it finally moved. All parts are reusable. One sprocket bolt was busted off part way down the hole, tomorrow's project is getting that out then new tire, sprocket, and chain, back together. 'spose i oughta do the swing arm pivot too.
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Don't be so wasteful, Gary. Other pin is fine, just flip it over...
I have a shade under 18K miles on the FJ on the original chain and sprockets. I should probably replace them just because. I'll pull it apart and scope it out as part of the "put it to bed for the Winter" routine.
I have a shade under 18K miles on the FJ on the original chain and sprockets. I should probably replace them just because. I'll pull it apart and scope it out as part of the "put it to bed for the Winter" routine.
Cuz i kept the bit centered, I was able to drill out, then clean the remains of the bolt with a tap when 3 step ups in extractor size wouldn't budge it.
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Made some progress today.
You’re really moving on this buddy!
Thanks again for the tip on those DICO Nyalox abrasive wheels, Gary; thanks to you my rims look respectable now (well, almost respectable).
Have a spritzer bottle of water handy when using dico wheels, keeping your work wet improves the cutting/polishing action and really reduces that extremely fine dust.
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