An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild

The problem with a chain breaker is it will do just that - break the chain, or the link you're using it on in this case. You'll need a new master link then, and it should be the same brand as the chain so it matches up perfectly. I don't know how easy it would be to find one of those, especially for some off brand chain like yours. Some further research seems to indicate you have a LeMans brand chain, just a basic replacement that PartsUnlimited used to market. Notice I said "used to". It looks like they aren't sold anymore so good luck finding a new master link, lol.

As others mentioned, I think I'd just be using a hammer on the pins. You don't need to move them in much, just enough so you create a space between the side plate and the chain links the master link connects. Then you can quit hammering on the pins and start hammering a screwdriver down into that gap between the plates. I would use a screwdriver big enough to span both links being connected but small enough to slip in between the pins on the master link.
 
Here's what I mean with the larger screwdriver. This will pry the plate off both master link pins simultaneously as you drive the screwdriver in .....

full
 
Thanks everyone. Yeah, over the last two days I definitely tried all those pry techniques—sides, middle etc—with flatheads and even got a zip tie through to pull as well for leverage. Feel like I’m going bonkers or I’m blind. It won’t even move. Started to wonder if someone out the clip on the wrong link, but it looks distinct from the others and clip wouldn’t sit the same on them. Chain doesn’t even look rusted up either and seemed in good condition when I checked it originally. Going out now to Just try it all again in case maybe the penetrating oil needed overnight to soak in. What I didn’t do was try an actual hammer, maybe wrapped in rag, so doing that now if it’s not working

@5twins Very good to know about the masterlink availability as I was hoping I could just replace that if I’m breaking it today. So much for that; I’ll look more later if it’s a bust right now.

Going to take another look at chain and sprocket condition too in case it really is just time—will at least make me feel better about all that $ if it’s a must.
 
The chain pins are hardened steel so a few hammer taps shouldn't mushroom the ends out. Rotate the wheel so the master link is on the rear sprocket for support. Then give both those pins some hammer taps.
 
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a free chain!!!!!!
Took penetrant overnight, another go around with zip tie pull with body weight, thick Phillips again (All the way through!) between the pins, alternating front and back panels, not worrying about damaging it anymore, and pop! Pretty shallow dings on panels (pics later); I was pretty well behaved (in part since I put dents on left panel the other week hah). Hopefully I haven’t damaged sprocket or any surrounding supports with 15 hours of banging and pulling... had to share quick. onward!!!
 
Okay!
Re the stator wires: chain off, I got a better look and open up the housing. It looks like it's only one of the braided wires that's begun to fray, and just a touch. The other ones didn't show any damage from what I saw.
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Judging from what @Machine (post #34) and @Jim (post #35) said, I'm thinking I should just tidy up the housing I cut away and then get that liquid tape on it.

Re concerns about the master link damage, I think I'm good. There are a few quite shallow dings on both plates, (see thumbnails) but instincts tell me that it's nothing that would create problems. The chain seems to be in good condition (only saw a touch of rust in one spot and when it was on, it didn't pull away from sprocket) and the sprocket teeth don't look shark tooth like, so I think I'm good to keep chain/sprockets. Let me know if you guys see something I don't.

Dipped the chain in some mineral spirits and rubbed off gunk as best I could (didn't have a good size tub to shake it in on hand) to at least get it clean(er). Leaving it outside to dry tonight (figured don't need to rinse) and then will lube it up before I put it back on, or perhaps lube tomorrow as I will likely wait to put it back on till after replacing pushrod seal now. (Still waiting on new seal to arrive... Going to look into how to remove jb weld/epoxy or whatever the heck one of the POs put around the pushrod).

@Raymond I got into the clutch adjustment cover. Thanks again for that, the photos in the manuals are so dark I can hardly see what they're referring to half the time. I was pretty fuzzy on whether I could actually "feel" it hitting the pushrod, especially when some of the threads felt a little like they were scraping a touch, but I think I got it since the freeplay on handlebar clutch lever is where it should be with it turned all the way into the housing.
 

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Good progress!

One option for the cable - cut away the black outer, separate the inner cables, insulate each one individually with, uhm, insulating tape. Then parcel the whole thing up again with more insulating tape, or you can use harness tape - in which case I'd advise securing the ends of the wrap with cable ties. Or if you free up the end of the cable you can pass some heat-shrink over it and shrink it with a heat gun. That gives the neatest job.

After the repair, make sure you fasten the cable away from the chain run or it will snack on it again. From the photos, it looks as if you still have the metal clip?

Personally, I'd replace the drive chain spring link. Can't see why it was such a bar steward to remove but a new one won't cost much.

You're winning, so keep going!

Next is the clutch push rod seal?
 
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From the photos, it looks as if you still have the metal clip?
sure do! And thanks for the encouragement!
I'd like to replace the link too but it seems like a rough part to find so I figure for now I'll use it till I need to repair the whole set. And I think I"m going to go with the liquid tape for that spot for now. Not the most refined way to do it, but if it does the trick and won't be an issue, I'd like to do that so I can move onto bigger fish as I'm on a time deadline (end of year) for the modifications and repairs that will have the bike non-operable for more than a day or two.

Spent some time today prioritizing and wrapping my head around the tasks I have ahead of me. Still more to be done in that department, but for now, yes, next up is: (1) replacing the clutch pushrod seal, getting that epoxy off while I'm at it if I can; (2) changing the oil, clean filters, replace washers; (3) cylinder head and front acorn nut retorque; (4) complete any remaining basic maintenance checks.
After that, generally speaking, it's carbs and the erratic/dangling idle situation, and understanding the electrical system so I can start planning where I can move indicators, switches on bars, battery/ignition setup, what type I can get etc, as I'll need to know and be able to do at least new indicator setup when I change out fender and seat and chop the frame behind shocks. Trying to order new bars asap too; I know I'll redo setup on there later but I'd like different bars sooner rather than later as the ride feels less controlled to me on these high ones.
Master list coming soon..

As for removing that epoxy/jb weld, all I've read so far is that prolonged soaking in acetone or isopropyl alcohol can help turn it into a gum like substance that's more easily removed, but given its location, that seems difficult. All I can think of at the moment is soaked a rag in it and wrapping it around that area for the days required, resoaking each day. But that seems like a long shot. There's grinding it off, but given it's location, also doesn't seem wise... unless I could maybe get my hands on one of those small Dremel tools... Any known failures/successes in this department are appreciated.
 
Keep all the parts you take off and put 'em up for sale in the Classies here. You'll recoup some of your money. Old parts never die, they just get passed around... :rolleyes:
As for removing that epoxy/jb weld, all I've read so far is that prolonged soaking in acetone or isopropyl alcohol can help turn it into a gum like substance that's more easily removed, but given its location, that seems difficult. All I can think of at the moment is soaked a rag in it and wrapping it around that area for the days required, resoaking each day. But that seems like a long shot. There's grinding it off, but given it's location, also doesn't seem wise... unless I could maybe get my hands on one of those small Dremel tools... Any known failures/successes in this department are appreciated.
If it's sealant, some solvent might soften it and make removing it easier. If it turns out to be epoxy, solvent won't touch it. Try chipping and scraping at the edge of it with a knife. If the PO was sloppy and didn't clean the area good, it might just pop/flake off. If not, yeah... a sanding disk on a Dremmel is prolly your best bet.
Nice job on the chain btw.
May every failure make you stubborn, and every success make you smarter. :D
 
This has become one of my favourite threads and a daily must read. It’s great that you’re doing all this work on your own and learning so much, with the help of our many learned forum members. Keep up the good work!
 
This has become one of my favourite threads and a daily must read. It’s great that you’re doing all this work on your own and learning so much, with the help of our many learned forum members. Keep up the good work!

+1 here. I love reading about your will, determination and perseverance. Keep on keeping on.
 
I'm enjoying this thread for the same reasons.!

I was wunderring if once the push rod has been pulled it might be possible to get behind that epoxy mess and gently lever it off with an implement like a narrow screwdriver? Along with the old seal? Bit of care not to booger up the case in that area . . .

Anybody have relevant experience?
 
I would address the Oil leaks first ... JB Weld is there because of reason ..
The Oil spots under the bike is rather large ...for it just being a seal dried up
A reason that in worst case can change the " Project " cost and time frame drastically.
I suspect an earlier chain breakage -- slamming the chain into the block.
 
Keep all the parts you take off and put 'em up for sale in the Classies here. You'll recoup some of your money. Old parts never die, they just get passed around... :rolleyes:
I was thinking the same! I'll have a bundle, and certainly glad to give them to you guys.
May every failure make you stubborn, and every success make you smarter. :D
This is great because I feel like it goes both ways.
@Raymond @ippytattoo @bosco659 This means a lot to me guys, thank you! I'm over the moon that it's a good read for you guys!

I've already been thinking that the bike should have some plaque or something on it that says: built by Marie and xs650.com :laugh2: (and Haynes Techbook hah)
Ordered a new cotter pin for rear axle nut too. Still waiting on the seal from Partzilla...so much for expedited shipping.
For the pushrod job, judging from these two posts (here and here) I've just scanned on here, I need to bevel an edge or the case's seal opening will tear the new seal. Mailman used a deburring tool and Gary used a carbide cutter. I don't have a grinding tool or pneumatic capabilities at present (though if/when they become necessary down the line, I have some options). I was thinking since I may need a dremmel to solve the epoxy mystery, I'd try one of those for that too? Mailman referenced that as well. Any other recs on head types aside from the stone wheel--for either this purpose or the future as I'll likely need to snag a set?

A reason that in worst case can change the " Project " cost and time frame drastically.
Agreed. That's why I want to get under that epoxy or whatever it is when I fix the seal leak.

Under the weather today so that's all I've got for the moment. Don't be alarmed if you don't hear from me until Friday--running around tomorrow and then birthday Thursday--trying to pretend it doesn't bum me out I can't ride that day so going out of town for the day. But I'll be back at it after. More soon!
 
I need to bevel an edge or the case's seal opening will tear the new seal. Mailman used a deburring tool and Gary used a carbide cutter. I don't have a grinding tool or pneumatic capabilities at present....
If you have a drill, that's good enough. Not sure what's available where you're at, but these are pretty common at most hardware stores. Just chuck one up in the drill.
Also... all you need to do is knock the edge off the seal recess. you don't actually have to remove that much metal. It can be done by hand with just a piece of sandpaper if you have the patience.
 
For the pushrod job, judging from these two posts (here and here) I've just scanned on here, I need to bevel an edge or the case's seal opening will tear the new seal.
I just use an old large pocket knife which I keep around for such purposes, carefully scraping the aluminum edge a bit on each pass.
Like Jim said, you don't have to take much off.

In fact, you might be able to get underneath the epoxy patch with the tip of such a knife and pry it off.
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