Fork problems

Are these still the bent ones??...........if they are thats causing the catch, just make sure both tubes are catching the same way, either to the front or back and not the sides.........if that makes sense

Yes, that makes sense Doug but, no, these are the new tubes. I am hoping that I can align the top tree so they don't catch on the bottom edge of the lip. They catch on opposite sides of the tube so a rotation to the right might do it. Otherwise, I might have to loosen the steering stem and adjust both trees. Won't get to it 'til tonight but will let you know.
Cheers

Just loosening the top tree should do it. Three clamping bolts and one top bolt.
Leo

Put it all back together with a little jiggling and a tap or two with a rubber mallet. Front wheel slipped straight in without effort. I will now tighten everything to torque starting with the stem nut and ending with the axle and fender mounts. I am considering moving the preload to the middle position as the forks felt a little "soft" to me earlier. Will ride it first and adjust it up if it feels "mushy". No sign of leaks as yet. Good to have the old girl back on her feet - wish they could fix mine as easily!
Cheers for all assistance and interest.

David Toll said:

Put it all back together with a little jiggling and a tap or two with a rubber mallet. Front wheel slipped straight in without effort. I will now tighten everything to torque starting with the stem nut and ending with the axle and fender mounts. I am considering moving the preload to the middle position as the forks felt a little "soft" to me earlier. Will ride it first and adjust it up if it feels "mushy". No sign of leaks as yet. Good to have the old girl back on her feet - wish they could fix mine as easily!
Cheers for all assistance and interest.

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What year was your bike? Do they all have adjustable preload? Thx

If you run 6.5 to 7 ounces of fork oil instead of the just under 6 ounce spec, the forks will work much better. They won't be as "mushy" and won't nose dive as much when braking. This is about the easiest improvement you can make to them.

5twins said:

If you run 6.5 to 7 ounces of fork oil instead of the just under 6 ounce spec, the forks will work much better. They won't be as "mushy" and won't nose dive as much when braking. This is about the easiest improvement you can make to them.

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K thx. What weight of oil is in the forks and does it need to be a special fork oil?

Mine was made in Oct.'77 but it is designated as a '78 Special, number 3031 in the 2FO series. She has 35mm forks. Not all models have the preload adjuster. There are more knowledgable fellows on the forum, bos who could give you the exact details for your bike. You use 10w as standard. Some guys use ATF but I figure the correct fork oil is the go. It's not cheap - $30/l here but worth it I'd say.
Yes, 5T, I put 207ml into mine - that's our Oz metric equivalent, (I hope). I wonder how much that measurement is affected by the residue that always collects in the bottom after you think you have drained the measuring cup?

Yes, that's almost exactly 7 ounces. I put that much in a totally dry fork, after taking them all apart and cleaning the insides out (and doing the Minton Mods). If it's a basic drain and refill, I'll put less in, closer to 6.5 ounces because, like you said, you never get all the old oil out. The only way to really equalize what's in both legs is to measure from the top of the tubes down to the oil level, springs out, forks fully compressed. I recently "tuned" my '83 forks by doing that. The 7 ounces I had put in seemed a bit much. The forks were a bit stiff and harsh over the little bumps. So I drew some off, setting the levels 6" from the tops of the tubes. I ended up taking about a half ounce out of each leg.

The adjustable top caps came along on the '78 models but I think only the U.S. bikes got them. I'm not sure about Canada. Europe and Australia didn't get them.