My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

Bike might have more history than I thought. Interested to investigate if the wreck makes the bike a risky ride.

You don't have to worry about that. There's no mystery involved. When you have the bike, you can check the frame is straight by sighting along the wheels. The broken spokes can be replaced and the wheel trued, unless you decide to change the wheel. You can soon check the forks are straight, operate and are not shoved out of line - though it sounds as though the elderly juvenile delinquents who figure in the story already did that.
 
80G Frame............quite high up the vin no list as well
81H Engine........

Makes no difference as the charging system/ignition is the same from 80-84

This is Actually an Interesting project
The Odometer ca 14000 miles if I read it right...Nothing if that is true
That would have caught my attention if I was looking at a bike ..thinking about possibilities
No Major visible leaks at the outside Some at the Cam Chain tensioner and gear Shifter
The rubbers at pedals looks OK not worn.

This is something I would look into further if on the lookout for another bike.
It is not worth much since it needs a lot of work and parts But if the mileage is so low. Something can be done.
So my assumption would be factory engine factory frame .
( How can you be into the second engine after 14000 Miles ) some mixed parts.
I don't care how it looks at the outside as long as the mechanics and electrics is OK .You can go places
And Washing Polishing and some Paint can make a difference.
The finish can come later if interest , money and time.

It is not a project without risk It has been used for off-roading and it is a bit heavy for that.
Motocross people I know off don't treat bikes as the Road going fraternity.
Forklifts for moving around and Throwing in bikes at the back of the truck.
That can give problems.
It is not likely to have been maintained --serviced with Oil change every 3000 miles either
No Service Book ( if You understand what I mean )
I would try to inspect Fork straightness looking for rust and damage ..Swing Play ..Frame straightness.

And eventually try to start it after the correct procedure listening and looking for smoke .Which will be there in the beginning Valve Stem seals

Most likely in the beginning for a short while testriding try the wheel already there ( Carefully --no racing or speeding whatsoever or knees down in cornering ) for a while with or without the missing spokes replaced .But I would eventually replace for a stock wheel .. because of Brakes and chain lining up correctly-
I do believe it would be illegal here on public roads. With all what that means in terms of insurance and discussion with the Officer at the Roadside.
Or worse.

I would expect wiring problems in the beginning

But the mileage makes the Difference for me If the mileage were 40000 ... 50000 or 60000. I most likely would not consider it.
 
PXL_20201208_190301815.MP.jpg


SHE IS HOME!

Now, as money comes in, I will slowly work on her!
 
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Here is my to-do list. Please tell me if I'm crazy or doing it out of order!
  1. New oil
  2. New plugs
  3. New battery
  4. New air filters
  5. Clean tank
  6. Clean carb (ultrasonics bath)
  7. New carb seals?
If I can get it to run. Then I'll invest to finishing it.
  1. Find stock back wheel to replace the non standard one it has now.
  2. New tires
  3. Tune carb
  4. New blinkers
  5. New fuse box to replace in-line fuses
  6. New paint?
Whatcha think? I get my work bonus at the end of the year. I think imma put it into fixing this up.
 
I'd start with the carb and tank clean. They'll be the most time consuming. Get it running and warmed up before doing an oil change. Plan on doing several oil changes in the first few hundred miles.
... and add the head retorque to that list.
 
I'd start with the carb and tank clean. They'll be the most time consuming. Get it running and warmed up before doing an oil change. Plan on doing several oil changes in the first few hundred miles.
... and add the head retorque to that list.
Cool. That carb sounds like the funnest part. Is there a good location to get replacement seals and/or parts for the carb?
 
Partzilla still has some OEM parts. Niche Cycle carries genuine Mikuni bits.
When looking for parts - Since the bike has a 80G frame and a 81H motor - should I be looking for one year or the other? Or try to keep everything motor together and everything otherwise towards the frame year? Or are the parts pretty interchangeable?
 
Mostly interchangeable. If you're looking for engine parts, look for the 81 stuff, 80 if it a frame part. If you're not sure, ask.
 
All the engine stuff will be interchangeable between '80 and '81. Your frame is kind of rare I think. I think there was an '80 that wasn't a Special, or maybe it was just an early '80, that has more in common with a '79, like a hinged seat
 
Here is my to-do list. Please tell me if I'm crazy or doing it out of order!
  1. New oil
  2. New plugs
  3. New battery
  4. New air filters
  5. Clean tank
  6. Clean carb (ultrasonics bath)
  7. New carb seals?
If I can get it to run. Then I'll invest to finishing it.
  1. Find stock back wheel to replace the non standard one it has now.
  2. New tires
  3. Tune carb
  4. New blinkers
  5. New fuse box to replace in-line fuses
  6. New paint?
Whatcha think? I get my work bonus at the end of the year. I think imma put it into fixing this up.

If you want the bike to be reliable - which of course, you do - you should add going through the electrical system to your initial list. Check every wire - look for broken or cracked, pull every connection - clean and grease each one, think about fitting new fuse box at this early stage.

If the wiring is really decrepit with cracked insulation and green copper, might be worth fitting a new harness. But your bike is low-mileage and looks like it was looked after.

You can also simplify the wiring at the same time, such as removing clutch safety relay, light checker, flasher cancel and so forth. There's lots on this forum which unnecessary functions can be by-passed or pulled out. With less wiring, what's left is inherently more reliable and fault checking is easier.

The tank looks good in the photos. Up to you of course, but instead of new paint you might prefer to polish up and keep her original?
 
If you want the bike to be reliable - which of course, you do - you should add going through the electrical system to your initial list. Check every wire - look for broken or cracked, pull every connection - clean and grease each one, think about fitting new fuse box at this early stage.

If the wiring is really decrepit with cracked insulation and green copper, might be worth fitting a new harness. But your bike is low-mileage and looks like it was looked after.

You can also simplify the wiring at the same time, such as removing clutch safety relay, light checker, flasher cancel and so forth. There's lots on this forum which unnecessary functions can be by-passed or pulled out. With less wiring, what's left is inherently more reliable and fault checking is easier.

The tank looks good in the photos. Up to you of course, but instead of new paint you might prefer to polish up and keep her original?

I will start looking for a new set of wires!


Yeah I was under the impression that the paint wasn't original already which is why I was going to repaint. I would like to find the same color if I did. Repaint would be the last thing I did if I got around it to it.
 
I wouldn't be in a rush to replace your wiring harness for a couple of reasons. First, most can be renovated and cleaned up. Second, some of the new ones have ''glitches". From the looks of your bike, it appears to be based on an '80G Special II rolling chassis and that particular replacement harness does have some issues. But, you see how easily one of these bikes can be pieced together so there's no way to really know what you've got until you do some investigating. Maybe Gramps installed an '81 wiring harness along with the '81 motor. There are wiring and minor component differences between the '80 Special II, '80 Special, and '81 Specials.

So, you should download and study a bunch of manuals and wiring diagrams. You can get them for free here .....

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/xs650-manuals/

Yamaha didn't publish full manuals for every model year, they came out every 3 to 5 years. The in between model years got small supplements covering any differences in that particular model. The last full manual previous to your bike was the '78 one, so you will want to download that plus all the supplements. In particular, you'll need/want the SG/G ('80) and SH/H ('81) supplements. I would also get the SJ-K manual as well. It has updated carb info (float setting height) that the earlier ones don't.

Then you'll want to download some wiring diagrams, particularly the G and SG ones. They don't have an H/SH ('81) diagram but you'll find one at the end of the H/SH Supplement manual. By studying them as you go through your wiring, you should be able to determine just what components and harness you have .....

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/category/electrics/elec-diagram/
 
I wouldn't be in a rush to replace your wiring harness for a couple of reasons. First, most can be renovated and cleaned up. Second, some of the new ones have ''glitches". From the looks of your bike, it appears to be based on an '80G Special II rolling chassis and that particular replacement harness does have some issues.
The only problem I see with original harnesses is a layer of tarnish gets between the wire and lug and causes problems in low current circuits, like green wire to the reg/rec. On mine the shells are so brittle and deformed with age there's no way to get the lugs out to re-crimp them, and if you do it will always slide in and out, so you have to be careful it's actually pushed in. If you did get a replacement harness, I think any Special harness would work. There would have to be minor changes like splicing in the single taillight, and if there was a kickstand switch, wiring it to be permanently on. Then the good mods like removing the RLU and using its light as a charging indicator light. And getting rid of the clutch switch, probably. My concern about a new harness would be how solid the lugs are and the gauge of the wires and quality of insulation. You wouldn't want one where you can bend the lugs with your fingers. And of course general accuracy and length of wires...
 
If I were to be on the lookout for a back wheel. What should I be looking for? I see sizes can vary. I also need the brake assembly and sprocket. What else?
 
Note: Right side petcock is blocked off. The bike is probably wearing 1978 or 1979 tank and side covers. I can't remember which year was red. I concur that it's likely XS650G.
 
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