Shaft Removal for Vapour Blast

Shipper

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Need to know that removal of the needle bearing holding the shifter arms can be punched out from the outside before I end up destroying my casing (first photo). In addition, is it necessary to remove the right hand shaft as well (second photo)? That phillips screw sure doesn't want to cooperate. Suggestions?
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Need to know that removal of the needle bearing holding the shifter arms can be punched out from the outside before I end up destroying my casing (first photo). In addition, is it necessary to remove the right hand shaft as well (second photo)? That phillips screw sure doesn't want to cooperate. Suggestions?View attachment 177920View attachment 177921

These parts don’t look familiar to me, what are they off of? Have you tried an impact screwdriver? I’ve also had luck with a cordless screwdriver, At low speeds it kinda hammers as it turns.

Edit: Never mind, I see it now. I’ve never removed the shaft for the starter gear. It was such a close up photo, I couldn’t tell what I was looking at.
 
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Need to know that removal of the needle bearing holding the shifter arms can be punched out from the outside before I end up destroying my casing (first photo). In addition, is it necessary to remove the right hand shaft as well (second photo)? That phillips screw sure doesn't want to cooperate. Suggestions?View attachment 177920View attachment 177921
Hi Shipper,
there's fancy-assed tools specially designed to pull those needle-races, best you research them before going all medieval, eh?
And that Phillips head ain't one, it's a JIS head. The correct JIS bit in a percussion impact tool should shift it.
 
bearing remove.JPG

I'm thinking that the bearing in question is the one shown here with the red X on it. If so then I would say that would be the best way to remove it.

From my experience working on heavy equipment over around 40+ years needle bearings should always have force applied at the end opposite the nice round edges I see in your picture.

If you are hoping to reuse that bearing I would very careful to find something nice and flat and very close to the same OD of the bearing and use a press to push it out nice and smooth. Even at that I would not be real sure you can get it out and back in with out damage.

Also note that reinstalling I would also do that by pushing on the end with the red
X .

Anyone with different ideas feel free to chime in.

How about it Jim? I have an idea you have installed a few bearings like this over the years on things other than XS650's
 
Hi Shipper,
there's fancy-assed tools specially designed to pull those needle-races, best you research them before going all medieval, eh?
And that Phillips head ain't one, it's a JIS head. The correct JIS bit in a percussion impact tool should shift it.

I had the fun of removing four needle bearings like that for the cams in my 1988 Sportster. In that one they were open ended bearings but I had to do them without access to the far side as they were more or less in blind holes. I did not plan on reusing them but as smooth as they came out in a pinch I think I could have. It's always amazing what can be done with a chunk of steel and a metal lathe!

If by some chance I get bored and have some ambition I just might try removing one of those bearings out of a spare 1972 crank case that's been gathering dust for 15 or more years in the barn.
 
Khansen is correct the bearing presses in easily, that is you press it from the blank side towards the inside of the cases. The starter post should also be removed for vapour blasting. It has a cavity behind it that retains media and its the devils own job to get it all out. To remove the starter post remove the screw sit the case in a barbeque propped up so the post can fall free. Light the barbeque and wait, when the case gets up to temp it falls out.
 
Hi Shipper,
there's fancy-assed tools specially designed to pull those needle-races, best you research them before going all medieval, eh?
And that Phillips head ain't one, it's a JIS head. The correct JIS bit in a percussion impact tool should shift it.

Fredintoon, great advice - found it on YouTube. Thanks, likely saved my casing.
 
Khansen is correct the bearing presses in easily, that is you press it from the blank side towards the inside of the cases. The starter post should also be removed for vapour blasting. It has a cavity behind it that retains media and its the devils own job to get it all out. To remove the starter post remove the screw sit the case in a barbeque propped up so the post can fall free. Light the barbeque and wait, when the case gets up to temp it falls out.


Thanks Junkie, sounds good.
 
Ha, good call out TwoManyXS1Bs. Think I mentioned on a previous link somewhere that this project is an attempt to re- acquaint the original serial numbered engine with the frame. Was fortunate enough to pick up a whole engine in great shape two years back for $500.00cdn and have been running it in the bike ever since. As a result, spent most of the time riding and not rebuilding. Now that I am ready to have the casings done, my vapour blast guy has advised to remove ALL bearings and shafts. Still looking for a brother with a blind hole needle bearing puller cause I hate to blow $169.00 at Princess auto for just one bearing.

With any luck, I'll have it done by this time next year, lol.
 
Shipper, you dont need a puller, press it out of the case by pressing from the outside of the case against the capped end of the bearing . The bearing travels towards the inside of the cases and out of the pocket it sits in. If you need a photo I will sort one out for you.
Warming the cases with a heat gun around the housing helps considerably.
 
Khansen is correct the bearing presses in easily, that is you press it from the blank side towards the inside of the cases. The starter post should also be removed for vapour blasting. It has a cavity behind it that retains media and its the devils own job to get it all out. To remove the starter post remove the screw sit the case in a barbeque propped up so the post can fall free. Light the barbeque and wait, when the case gets up to temp it falls out.
Khansen is correct the bearing presses in easily, that is you press it from the blank side towards the inside of the cases. The starter post should also be removed for vapour blasting. It has a cavity behind it that retains media and its the devils own job to get it all out. To remove the starter post remove the screw sit the case in a barbeque propped up so the post can fall free. Light the barbeque and wait, when the case gets up to temp it falls out.

Brilliant Signal. Not sure how the hot dogs are going to taste for lunch.

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FYI, there's a vid here of removing that bearing using the actual shift drum from the outside

Nice job getting the starter post out. I never managed to, and actually couldn't find any discussion of it on the forum when I looked last year (I obviously should have asked the question....). The heat is a smart idea, I had removed the screw and the thing still wouldn't budge. I just left it in when I vapor blasted it, and I'll second what Signal said, there is a cavity behind it that traps a seemingly infinite amount of residual media. It took FOREVER to get it all out.

Oh - I had picked up an extra NOS needle bearing (93320-31501) when doing mine....not sure how easy they are to find these days...I'd be glad to send it at cost, shoot me a PM
 
FYI, there's a vid here of removing that bearing using the actual shift drum from the outside

Nice job getting the starter post out. I never managed to, and actually couldn't find any discussion of it on the forum when I looked last year (I obviously should have asked the question....). The heat is a smart idea, I had removed the screw and the thing still wouldn't budge. I just left it in when I vapor blasted it, and I'll second what Signal said, there is a cavity behind it that traps a seemingly infinite amount of residual media. It took FOREVER to get it all out.

Oh - I had picked up an extra NOS needle bearing (93320-31501) when doing mine....not sure how easy they are to find these days...I'd be glad to send it at cost, shoot me a PM


Check this out - found a new outboard motor boat plug that when twisted to the right OD, fits as snug as can be in the needle bearing hole. The vapour blast tech I'm dealing with says it should be just fine. Well, we're going to find out. Do me a big favour and hold onto that needle bearing you secured until I find out how well we did.

Thanks,

Shipper

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No problem, and will do. It's not going anywhere. Honestly, I think you'll be fine.....I didn't actually remove mine either, and just used a plug, but it came out during the vapor blast process (I did my own blasting). It honestly wasn't all that hard to wash the media out of that bearing, it's not too deep and pretty accessible and easy to rinse out the cage really well. That's why I have an extra actually, I just ended up leaving the original in there.
It's here for ya if you need it though!
 
Casings came out beauty! and the plug I put into the needle bearing for the shifter arms held perfectly. All washed and ready for start of reassembly.

Question, now that I have pristine casings, what do I use to clean them up from brake cleaner etc when blowing out the oil ports?

Not a big mess at all but a few drip marks.
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Yes clean them with very hot soapy water twice. Pay special attention to the oil ways, check out Gary Hoos facebook page for ideas.
The media used in vapour blasting is usually glass beads.
 
I'm surprised the starter post is pressed in, I'd have assumed it was a reasonably loose fit and held in place by that screw on the flange.
 
Yes clean them with very hot soapy water twice. Pay special attention to the oil ways, check out Gary Hoos facebook page for ideas.
The media used in vapour blasting is usually glass beads.
I would choose soda blasting which of course just dissolves and washes out
 
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