LED headlight?

Gary - When I click that eBay link for those Broviews you posted it's showing them at $41.99 each? Not sure where the $135/pair is coming from

@Grimly - I was checking out those Beamtech ones in the Amazon link... you mentioned they look like the ones you've installed. How did you install that? Is it in a stock headlamp bucket using one of the standard (i.e. Mike's XS) H4 conversion lights?

Either of you guys have thoughts on the fan-type versus passive cooling? That heat makes me nervous. I have the stock sealed beam now and looking for an upgrade. Was considering the H4 route, but this thread has given me some food for thought re: LEDs. Thanks fellas.
 
Prices have come down a lot on LED headlight bulbs.
On my 75 I ran an H4 55/65 watt bulb in a Candle Power Reflector. This new bulb set up sure found all the weak spots in the headlight circuits. With that much draw you need everything clean and tight.
I ran this for a few years as I was working nights and liked the extra light. The only problem was it collected water. I never did figure out where water was getting in.
Once I changed jobs and was working days I went back to a sealed beam.
I'm retired now so riding to work isn't an issue.
I use LED's in the turns and tail light. This reduces the power draw on the system to help keep the battery charged.
The dash bulbs are still incandescent bulbs. They don't draw much power anyway.
One thing about LED's is you can run lighter more flexible wiring. Less effected by vibration. Easier on switches too.
On bikes that use a PMA charging system you may want to think hard about LED lighting. A PMA puts out max amps all the time. They bleed off excess power through a resistance, that's why the reg/rec gets hot. Incandescent bulbs help soak up some of this excess power so the reg/rec can do it's job a bit easier and run cooler.
Leo
 
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Gary - When I click that eBay link for those Broviews you posted it's showing them at $41.99 each? Not sure where the $135/pair is coming from

@Grimly - I was checking out those Beamtech ones in the Amazon link... you mentioned they look like the ones you've installed. How did you install that? Is it in a stock headlamp bucket using one of the standard (i.e. Mike's XS) H4 conversion lights?

Either of you guys have thoughts on the fan-type versus passive cooling? That heat makes me nervous. I have the stock sealed beam now and looking for an upgrade. Was considering the H4 route, but this thread has given me some food for thought re: LEDs. Thanks fellas.
In the two years plus since I selected Bro View S5 braided heatsink as my goto there are now some different answers to the H4 bulb replacement.
The $135 dollar link https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-VSeries...644779&hash=item21724fca55:g:d28AAOSwAj5fGc31
is an Oracle brand, pair of bulbs. Instead of fan or other heatsink they are controlling temperature by reducing the amount of current (and light) by pulse width modulation, like quickly turning a light switch on and off, there is no heat generated during the off time. The switching is SO fast, off time SO short you don't see flicker. (their claim)
About the heat. Understand LEDs are VERY efficient. The power consumption of even these (4 times brighter bulbs) is maybe half that of an incandescent bulb (your standard sealed beam) So they make LESS heat overall. That incandescent sends out energy on a broad band of wavelengths, much is infrared, ie it's energy but you can't see it, doesn't help light the road. The LED sends out only a very narrow band of visible light virtually no infrared or other energy you can't see. So there's less heat in an LED installation. My reasonably informed opinion is; as long as you use a metal or glass reflector, no problem. I've run these for significant miles in plastic reflectors with no problems either. But I think some designs of PLASTIC reflectors have had trouble dealing with the concentrated energy in the light beam, unlike metal or glass the plastic does't do good spreading that heat out into the bigger area of the whole reflector. That's mostly a guess on my part. I think that's why complete new design LED bulbs use multiple LED bulbs to spread out the heat over a larger area that plastic can handle.
The Broview fan led bulbs I linked here https://www.ebay.com/itm/Broview-H4...204085?hash=item444567c2b5:g:Y4UAAOSw-o9fL6wT are for a PAIR of fan cooled bulbs that have what appears to be the proper aiming design.
What you have to watch out for is cheap, no power pack, no cooling, small form factor H4 bulbs, they are cunning in their ad wording but those bulbs have poor or no beam control and much lower total power, light output than the good LEDs. If you ride only in the city at night they may be adequate, but for highway or backroad night use or us with older eyes you want to step up to the good units.
LED lighting will prolly continue to be an area of fast innovation and change for a couple of years yet. Remember H4 is really old tech, and solutions for that old design and the 7" round form factor sealed beams will tend to be more limited than new fresh design lighting systems.
My focus (wink) is new bright LEDs with good controlled light output in a headlight that still pretty much looks like an old school glass bulb when turned off. Your ideas may be different and that's fine with me.
 
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@XSLeo thats interesting to know about LEDs and PMA. I was under the impression the smaller draw of the LED would help out the PMA system, especially people running a capacitor. That’s actually the whole reason I ventured into this thread haha

@gggGary i like your ideas of a modern led bulb with an old school bulb look. That’s kind of my philosophy too.
 
@Grimly - I was checking out those Beamtech ones in the Amazon link... you mentioned they look like the ones you've installed. How did you install that? Is it in a stock headlamp bucket using one of the standard (i.e. Mike's XS) H4 conversion lights?

I had it fitted in the original lamp unit - mine didn't have the sealed beam but was fitted with an H4 lamp unit possibly by a PO. I've since replaced the Yamaha headlight with a Kwak GPZ1100 rectangular headlamp that had given me years of great service and equipped that with one of the fanless LEDs. The beam is good, but I've never really tested that combo in the dark, the XS being used mostly in the summer and long days.
The Beamtech fanless LEDs (or the ones that are identical, which I've got) are fitted to a pair of Hella H4 auxiliary lights on the GS850. Those, combined with the Cible headlight light up the road quite well.
I was seriously considering a fanned LED, but most of them at the time were too long to fit the lamp units I wanted to use them in, and I'd no great faith in the life expectancy of the fans. Having said that, plenty of people have been using them and the fan life doesn't seem to be a problem.
 
Having never used them, I have couple of questions regarding fan cooled LEDs...
  • Are the fans noisy? Like a hair dryer noisy?
  • Unlike an halogen which puts the heat into the headlight itself (think heat-sink), the heat produced with a fan unit will be dumped into the headlight bucket space (a small enclosure). Kinda like the convection oven that does such a nice job on the thanksgiving turkey. Should there be a concern for the wiring that shares this space?
 
Yer never gonna hear that fan over a running murdersnickle. Prolly not hear it even not running.
It's just not all that much heat, don't worry about it.
 
Just curious... thanks. Was thinking of a auto application. Not seen it mentioned on the interwebs, so must not be an issue even for electric vehicles...
 
Some car radios may have interference issues with some led fans, that's just from reading bulb ads, nothing like a competitor to spill the beans. LOL
 
Had a pair of LED bulbs gathering dust in the garage so I decided to try one of them in the bike. Haven’t gone for a night time tide but not sure I like the light pattern. The halogen light I normally have in there isn’t as bright but it casts a nice even light. The LED’s have “hot spots” and not as even of light distribution. Image is low beam. High beam is a bright round spot. I’ll go for a night time ride if and when it warms up and dries up a bit.
0F4FE6A6-6A35-41E9-8FC2-9AE1241A0D7B.jpeg
 
Finally got out at night to check out these LED H4 headlight bulbs.

MZS H4 LED Headlight Bulbs,Wireless Instant Plug-in 9003 High Low Beam Conversion Kit Extreme Small Size Fanless Design 12000LM 6500K White
Sold by: MZS Accessories
816Oaiahd8L._AC_SL1500_.jpg

need to get the headlight aimed a bit higher.
High and low beam pics.
20201104_203510.jpg
20201104_203518.jpg

Took it around the 5 mile country block, thought it was not quite as good as the Broview and much better than a standard bulb. Took the Venture with a broview around the same block right after, it reinforced my opinion that the broview (NLA) is a slightly better bulb, while trying to mentally compensate for the new bulbs (to low) aim on Madness. Based on this short test I'd ride behind it, no problem.
The bulb is smaller overall than many "recent" LEDS and fit in the stock XS650 bucket when installed in an H4 reflector from an XS850. I used flag type terminal connectors instead of the stock headlight connector, helps get clearance from the back of the bucket. I've put several hundred (daylight) miles on this bulb so far.
 

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Finally got out at night to check out these LED H4 headlight bulbs.

MZS H4 LED Headlight Bulbs,Wireless Instant Plug-in 9003 High Low Beam Conversion Kit Extreme Small Size Fanless Design 12000LM 6500K White
Sold by: MZS Accessories
816Oaiahd8L._AC_SL1500_.jpg

need to get the headlight aimed a bit higher.
High and low beam pics.
View attachment 178449 View attachment 178450
Took it around the 5 mile country block, thought it was not quite as good as the Broview and much better than a standard bulb. Took the Venture with a broview around the same block right after, it reinforced my opinion that the broview (NLA) is a slightly better bulb, while trying to mentally compensate for the new bulbs (to low) aim on Madness. Based on this short test I'd ride behind it, no problem.
The bulb is smaller overall than many "recent" LEDS and fit in the stock XS650 bucket when installed in an H4 reflector from an XS850. I used flag type terminal connectors instead of the stock headlight connector, helps get clearance from the back of the bucket. I've put several hundred (daylight) miles on this bulb so far.
Good idea to use the flag connector. That will save space in the crammed headlight.
 
As an update.....I ended up grabbing a 7" replacement reflector directly from Candlepower to replace my sealed beam with one of their heavy-duty 4720HD lamps. The shell was $40 and the bulbs are $7 each. I've not ridden at night yet, only in the dusk so can't give a full on review beyond saying it's definitely an improvement over what was there. Install was very easy, took about 10 minutes. And replacing the H4 bulbs will be MUCH easier than replacing a OEM-style sealed beam.
 
And replacing the H4 bulbs will be MUCH easier than replacing a OEM-style sealed beam.
After 37 years and 57,000 miles, I have never replaced my Koito sealed beam. A have a spare or more if replacement becomes necessary. I got darked on last night due to choosing a motorcycle for early evening errands. I had dinnertime traffic. Cars in front. Cars in back. The antique headlight was fine. This was the first time I rode in Mississippi in the dark. I tried two hours of Arkansas dark in September and that was OK too (XS11 w/ H4). I will consider LED light if this trend continues. The JW Speaker interactive headlight has piqued my interest as corners are an issue. Pushing the bar points the light in the wrong direction. I have some crooked roads around here.
 
comparo LED to H4 halogen
led.jpg

True confession; I broke up the stock headlight connector plastic, extracted the metal clips, bent the LED prongs out more or less flat and taped everything up. Made for a shallow install, that H4 reflector is a snug fit in the XS650 can with all the wiring in there.
 
comparo LED to H4 halogen
View attachment 178480
True confession; I broke up the stock headlight connector plastic, extracted the metal clips, bent the LED prongs out more or less flat and taped everything up. Made for a shallow install, that H4 reflector is a snug fit in the XS650 can with all the wiring in there.
Is there a special crimp tool or method for the flag type connectors?
 
Can I replace the bulb, on my 1980 special, or does the whole 7" unit get changed ?
- - -
Hi joe.
the original headlight is a 7-inch diameter twin-filament lightbulb, If one fllament blows, it's hooped.
When mine blew a filament I replaced it with a 7-inch automotive glass & reflector unit that takes a 60Watt/35Watt headlight bulb.
 
I'm running one of these in 2 of my builds (free.99 and my GL1000): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8BWEGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I run one of these in my street tracker: https://www.amazon.com/AAIWA-Headli...tive&sprefix=7+inch+le,automotive,168&sr=1-10.

I have yet to find a reflector based housing that is compatible with a LED bulb w/o compromises of some sort. For the price of the LED enclosures, even the cheap JW Speaker knockoffs, are going to be far better than a LED bulb in a housing. Additionally, the throw is difficult to match without the right optics.

IF you must, I would suggest a HIGH quality housing replacement, like a CIBIE with a eruo spec pattern, so you're at least utilizing the light output more effectively.
 
Yamaha P/N 2F3-84303-A0-00 headlight as'sy accepts LED bulbs with H4 connection and swaps right into your existing 7" diameter stock headlight bucket.
If my understanding is correct, then this headlamp assy will directly replace the stock headlamp using my existing headlamp bucket on my '78 XS650 special with no mods other than an H4 bulb harness? It's a bit pricey but it would be nice to have a brighter headlamp.

Mike
 
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