1981 Yamaha XS650S - Project Bike #5

Been wondering for quite awhile about if using the original caliper hose (hoses) junction in a dual line application, does clearance above the front fender still allow for the forks to be raised in the triple clamps any higher than flush ?
View attachment 174481
Or can a guy expect a dented front fender on a pot hole hit lol..
I'm not certain how lengths of forks compare, however, XS750, XS850, and XS1100 all have the double banjo bolt coming out the bottom as you describe. I have not physically looked at the bikes, but EU and Oceania market XS650 have dual disc brakes and I would assume the junction is in the same place. Some folks move the double to the MC. Speaking for myself, I would rather not add the extra length of line.
 
I'm not certain how lengths of forks compare, however, XS750, XS850, and XS1100 all have the double banjo bolt coming out the bottom as you describe. I have not physically looked at the bikes, but EU and Oceania market XS650 have dual disc brakes and I would assume the junction is in the same place. Some folks move the double to the MC. Speaking for myself, I would rather not add the extra length of line.

Hi marty,
the book sez the stock hoses have a 5 year lifespan so it's best to replace them anyway.
My dual front conversion uses two stainless steel wire reinforced plastic hoses from the lever to the calipers.
Left-side caliper was salvaged from an XS750 Standard.
 
Yes, I don't think you ever have to worry about the braided stainless ones wearing out or going bad. I've been using them on all my bikes, some for probably more than 30 years, and never had any go bad.
 
Ive had 18 year old BMW MC hoses that were junk, leaking, not uncommon for that brand.
 
The jury is still out on the cheapo China braided lines I've been using lately. So far they're good but it's only been a couple of years.
 
Think Theres a good 6-7 years on some of the banggood lines I installed. Madness has aeroquip lines, from the 80's?? going strong.
 
Well, I've tried everything I know to get brake fluid into the front dual brake setup, with no joy. First I filled the calipers, then the two brake hoses from the junction to the calipers, then the hose from the master cylinder to the junction. There is fluid in the master cylinder covering the hole in the bottom. Working the lever causes rippling of fluid in the master cylinder, and there is maybe a little resistance. But, not matter how much I work the lever, or even if I try to power suck fluid through the bleed valves using an air compression brake bleed tool, I get no fluid or air. It's the weirdest thing I've ever seen.
 
Well, I've tried everything I know to get brake fluid into the front dual brake setup, with no joy. First I filled the calipers, then the two brake hoses from the junction to the calipers, then the hose from the master cylinder to the junction. There is fluid in the master cylinder covering the hole in the bottom. Working the lever causes rippling of fluid in the master cylinder, and there is maybe a little resistance. But, not matter how much I work the lever, or even if I try to power suck fluid through the bleed valves using an air compression brake bleed tool, I get no fluid or air. It's the weirdest thing I've ever seen.
BTDT, got the T-shirt. Don't give up you'll eventually get the air out.
 
What I have done is go to a farm supply store and get a animal syringe and pump brake fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder.
Works well
Just have to be careful not to spill if the master cylinder fills to full.

Casey
 
OK, I *think* I have discovered the main front brake problem. When I rebuilt the master cylinder, I put the spring and rubber end cap in the wrong way (inexperience). Now that I have corrected that, I seem to be generating some hydraulic pressure, and I will continue bleeding all the air out of the system.

I've also installed a new flasher unit and successfully wired up new TruWrapz 360 LED Turn Signals I purchased from Dime City Cycles. The rear flexible LED taillight-turn signal-running light strip is also wired up and working, but I am waiting on a replacement from MikesXS... the one I received had a dead section.

truwrapz-front-signals.jpg


flexible-taillight-LED.jpg
 
Well, a significant milestone was reached tonight. The XS650S project bike runs for the first time since 2002! I applied a little choke (first click) and it started right up. Then I adjusted the idle screw and it ran like this! My friend Harrison is very happy, because he's buying this bike!

 
Well, a significant milestone was reached tonight. The XS650S project bike runs for the first time since 2002! I applied a little choke (first click) and it started right up. Then I adjusted the idle screw and it ran like this! My friend Harrison is very happy, because he's buying this bike!


Well done! It came out great!
 
The smoke you see coming from the exhaust was the burnoff of oil we squirted in the spark plug holes before we started 'er up! It has since cleared up. I am truly amazed at how well this bike runs right off the bat! I was not expecting that. Today, I plan to complete the front bucket and instruments wiring, then take it for its maiden voyage spin!
 
I was able to finish the headlight and new instrument wiring today. I took it for a short shakedown spin. Need to address a few more items:
  • Front brakes are still mushy - more bleeding?
  • Left front signal stopped working
  • Clutch needs adjustment, grabs too quickly
  • Check front fork oil - suspension feels mushy
shakedown-ride.jpg
 
With rubber brake lines, the brakes may always feel mushy, lol.

These forks work better with a little bit more than the stock amount of oil in them. Stock spec is just under 6 ounces per leg. Run 6.5 to 7 ounces per leg. The forks won't feel as mushy and they'll dive less when braking.

Those tapered and pleated style pods may cause tuning issues. That type of pod doesn't work well on CV carbs. If you're going to use pods, the straight foam UNI's are the best choice.
 
I was able to finish the headlight and new instrument wiring today. I took it for a short shakedown spin. Need to address a few more items:
  • Front brakes are still mushy - more bleeding?
  • Left front signal stopped working
  • Clutch needs adjustment, grabs too quickly
  • Check front fork oil - suspension feels mushy
View attachment 179240

Hi rbirkey,
fix the mushy brake feel by swapping in stainless steel wire braid reinforced brake lines.
They ain't cheap, run two long lines from the lever to save 1/3rd of the cost. AND drill the brake disks.
 
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