So I’m stranded cause my ATU. advice needed

You guys are geniuses

Thank you everyone for your help in finding this. I never would have looked back there.
If I could ask one more question, should I order a new advance plate and keep up the points or look into and upgraded ignition? I know the PAMCO is well loved but I’m not sure where to get them anymore as it seems Pete retired some time ago. Any recommendations welcome. And if points are solid I’ll keep them. I’ve gotten good at timing them and gapping them. Although clearly I need to tighten things down better

That's exactly what happened to mine. You can buy an entirely new advance assembly from MikesXS for $72. If you are confident in your welding skills, I was able to carefully build up the metal around the neck of that backing plate and then reshape it with a dremel. Careful not to apply too much heat at once, else you might warp it. Might also put a want ad in this forum for a used advance assembly. Jim sold me one he had.

Yeah $72 for a new plate was not exactly inspiring. Thus the look into a fresh system. Unfortunately I do not have any welding skills so I’m not sure I can fix this. Classifieds is a good bet though I’ll put up an ad

One other approach that might work is to get a socket that is the exact diameter to fit snugly around the inside of that neck. Try to carefully heat (propane torch should work) and bend that broken piece back around that socket. Then use JBWeld to cement it into place, dremel the cured JBWeld where needed. The pin is only there to ensure correct alignment. It is the larger locknut that holds it securely (not the pin). Once secured back in place it should work again. You'll need to set timing again with your points. Clymer manual provides clear instructions on how to do that. On my backing plate, the metal seemed quite brittle and would not easily bend without breaking off. One of the tabs broke off that stop the advance weight, and I had to weld a new piece of metal back on, along with fixing the neck itself. So mine was in worse shape than yours and I was able to get it to work again. But this was with welding and not JBWeld.

And make sure you install that notched ring nut correctly. There is a raised ridge around the I.D. on one side. That must face out or the nut won't stay tight .....

You'd better have a close look at the camshaft seal too. Make sure it didn't get damaged.

5twins said:

And make sure you install that notched ring nut correctly. There is a raised ridge around the I.D. on one side. That must face out or the nut won't stay tight .....

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Great point 5Twins. Now that I think about it, this nut was probably installed the other way around on this 73 I bought, which probably caused the entire assembly to loosen up and shear that alignment pin and fubar the backing plate.

Chrispy said:

View attachment 179852 You guys are geniuses

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Tentatively Thinking out loud
the ring damaged is there for centering ???? ..if you cut off the damaged part there is still ca 270 degrees left for centering
That would most likely be enough OR ???
Now there is a slot for the pin no longer there so that needs to be made. Or fixating without a pin ..

I don't think this repair would be a big job for an ordinary shop
If not hammering it straight and then welding works
Depending on measurements but there exists some pipe that is exact or close enough out there or making one in the lathe
Cutting out the damaged section an weld in the newly manufactured section. With pin slot. about 1 / 4 circle

Asking friends and neighbors Or take i to the shop .. Here I believe I could get it done for a bag of Donuts
But the boss there is interested in bikes himself. But not a big thing in my opinion especially if the shop have a pipe.
Whit usable dimensions ..Keep in mind that this is thin walled and can be hammered right after the cutout.

Or it can be even quicker if there is a pipe with exact measurements to cut of the rest and weld in the full circle.

Please disregard if this is off as mentioned it was many years since I last worked with these.