XS2 Rustoration Build

I just came across an old post, a rattle can paint job. Thought it might interest you. @yellowdog
View attachment 180725


WoW! that turned out nice... has given me new hope. By the way I appreciate all the feed back from the forum. I donated money to the forum two days ago. Seems to me to be a good investment!
 
So I pull in the lever and it engages the starter?
It should. Same power that goes to the coils also goes through NC contacts in the safety relay from there through the coil of the solenoid and to ground when the decompression lever is pulled.
upload_2020-12-15_13-25-6.png
 
Just a heads up the XS2 has weights in the crank which tend to loosen. This is from one of two XS2 cranks which had the issue. Locks the engine solid if it backs out.Around 12,000 miles on both engines. Others have reported the issue. Others have had no problems. You would probably hear a knock, knock,knock as the rod hits the weight before it locks.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/v284/venture1985/XS2/XS2021.jpg
 
Just a heads up the XS2 has weights in the crank which tend to loosen. This is from one of two XS2 cranks which had the issue. Locks the engine solid if it backs out.Around 12,000 miles on both engines. Others have reported the issue. Others have had no problems. You would probably hear a knock, knock,knock as the rod hits the weight before it locks.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/v284/venture1985/XS2/XS2021.jpg

Thanks for the heads up... I think!

The bike has 18,000 on the clock... I will be paying attention for the knock when I finally get it started.
 
The crank lock thing has happened. Later cranks don't have the weights. My original XS2 engine has about 33,000 smiles on it. I split the cases at 29,000 smiles to fix a crack in the cases. The weights looked fine. Have put almost 4 more since then. No problems. In it's younger days the red line was a suggestion. Just my opinion I think the weights give the engine better balance. Knock on chrome next time I start it it may lock up
 
I am not the best at diagnosing electrical problems... so I have a couple of questions.

I got the new solenoid and I believe that I connected all the loose disconnected wires. I pull the decompression lever and the starter cranks. However, I do not have any spark at the plugs. I connected a testing light to one set of points and the light stays lit regardless of the position of the crank when I turn it. The same thing happens with both sets of points. Shouldn't it stay lit until the points break? I also noticed that the neutral light stays on even when I turn the key off.

Obviously I have something mis-wired. Should I check the coils with an Ohm Meter at this point?
 
When the points are closed (think of a switch), power runs to ground through them.... light stays off. When the points open, the only path to ground is through the light... light comes on. Are the points badly corroded? that would be high resistance causing power to go through the light (lighting it). Providing the coils/points are correctly wired, the light on means the coil is passing current through. That ain't a guarantee, but it points to the coil being OK... at least for now. First ya gotta figure out why the points aint closing.
 
When the points are closed (think of a switch), power runs to ground through them.... light stays off. When the points open, the only path to ground is through the light... light comes on. Are the points badly corroded? that would be high resistance causing power to go through the light (lighting it). Providing the coils/points are correctly wired, the light on means the coil is passing current through. That ain't a guarantee, but it points to the coil being OK... at least for now. First ya gotta figure out why the points aint closing.

Jim,

The points are very corroded... but I used an emery board to file some of the crude off. I re-gaped the points but the testing light stays on continuesly regardless of the crank's position. I have ordered new points and coils. As far as the wiring goes it looks right to me... could the condensers cause this?
 
Jim,

The points are very corroded... but I used an emery board to file some of the crude off. I re-gaped the points but the testing light stays on continuesly regardless of the crank's position. I have ordered new points and coils. As far as the wiring goes it looks right to me... could the condensers cause this?
Not really. If the condenser shorted out, the light would stay out. If it was open, it wouldn't have any affect on the light. Give us some closeup pics of the points and how you have the light connected.
Also, watch this video. It walks you through the whole process.

 
That points gap look unusually large to me. I just looked at the gaps on my test motor and they don't look near that big when they're open. Are you positive the points are actually closing?
Do you have a multi meter so you can check resistance across the points?
 
That points gap look unusually large to me. I just looked at the gaps on my test motor and they don't look near that big when they're open. Are you positive the points are actually closing?
Do you have a multi meter so you can check resistance across the points?


Jim,

Yes.. I am sure that the points are closing. And.. I also checked the resistance from one point to the other side and it does not not show that the contacts are touching... even though they are. If I touch one side of the points with the test light, when the points are closed, shouldn't it light up? It does not!
 
If I touch one side of the points with the test light, when the points are closed, shouldn't it light up? It does not!
One side of the points has power coming in, the other side is ground. With the points open, the light's on at the power side of the points, The light will go out when the points close. At no time will the light come on when attached to the ground side of the points.

Venkataraju-Points_Full.png

points closed.png
 
One side of the points has power coming in, the other side is ground. With the points open, the light's on at the power side of the points, The light will go out when the points close. At no time will the light come on when attached to the ground side of the points.

View attachment 181286
View attachment 181287

Jim,

Wow... I love the diagram.... and very much appreciate the effort to set me straight. I believe there is something wrong with the points due to the fact that the test light stays on wether the points have contact or not. I have both points and coils coming in the mail (Mikes XS). I will update you on the situation when they come in.

'Thanks' again for the effort!
 
Glad I could help!
I have no personal experience, but I've read here that Mikes points are not as durable as OEM's. You might look on Ebay for some for backups to the Mikes you're gonna run. Should have added before, would prolly be a good idea to replace the condensers while you're at it. They might be OK, but they're most likely as old as the points.
 
I have two unrelated questions at this point:

Does the Caliper have one piston or two? I have been able to remove the one piston but it looks like the other side of the caliper has another piston.
... AND ...

How do you remove the front brake handle in order to rebuild the master cylinder? After I removed the front brake switch there appears to be a barrel inside of the front brake mounting that does not allow the lever to be removed.

On a side note.... I received a 22 liter Ultrasonic Cleaner for Christmas.... filled it with Simple Green solution and I can not wait to use it!
 
Back
Top