Hand made Aluminum tanks

We used to cryo treat some racing internal engine and transmission parts for greater performance and life and it worked for what we needed. Their are many different situations where certain types of treatment benefit a part. I've been in the machining, fabrication, engine building and racing business for 17 years.
 
jd750ace, 3003 H14 is the material of choice most tank builders and metal shapers use. I use .090" on all my tanks. Depending on the tank design when using .090" material the majority of my tanks become thicker, to about .115" thickness. My tanks get thicker in the areas that are shaped to compound or reverse compound curves. When you shrink metal (done correctly without actually creating what I would call damage) you are actually gathering metal and making the material thicker. I rarely use english wheels, hammers or plannishing which are all forms of shaping metal by stretching which one would be thinning the material. Welding process and building practices are all important and most reputable builders know what to do and how to do it or they would not be doing what they are doing.

I figured that's what you were using. It's no good in aircraft work, as 3000 series is silicon based and it's highly crystalized structure prevents it from developing repeatable strength properties in wrought sheet form. Car and bike guys like to use it because of it's high malleability. It does work harden, but not to a predictable value. the only practical use of the silicon alloys in aircraft is in casting. The A356 cast alloy is in exceptionally wide use. It is often used in engine cases for bikes as well. It has a very high corrosion resistance, being low in magnesium and having extremely low copper content.
I've been repairing aircraft for 28 years, and have formed thousands of parts. We shrink form parts, but not nearly as common as stretch forming in our industry. Stretching is harder, as things can crack and tear while working them, and maintaining consistent material thickness is a challenge. We seldom cold form anything heavier than 0.063" thick.
When working with structural alloys, the material does not move like 3003. It's quite different. We have to verify our remaining material after forming by ultrasonic thickness testing so we ensure our design mechanical properties are maintained. Below is a pic of the finest forming machine in the world for aircraft parts, the Eckold machine. They can shrink, stretch, planish, cold forge, almost anything, but a machine and a complete set of non-marring dies is around $150K nowadays!! Also is a pic of the aft pressure bulkhead out of the Constellation. It is an 84 inch spherical form. You have not had any fun til you tried to make a slice of a giant bubble out of 0.32" thick 2024 Clad sheet! It took a little bit to get it right, but a fine man from Hungary figured out how to do it repeatedly. This dome must endure flight loads at a pressure of 5.75 pounds per square inch. 84 inches in diameter, and domed, I have no idea what that works out to exactly, but inexactly, it's a whole shit-ton of load on a very thin part!
The last pic is the tailcone section that is 80% new material that I re-built over the course of 100 days. A little different than making motorcycle tanks and fenders. Your tanks look very nice, BTW. Not easy to get them symmetrically assembled.
 

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It is an 84 inch spherical form. This dome must endure flight loads at a pressure of 5.75 pounds per square inch. 84 inches in diameter, and domed, I have no idea what that works out to exactly, but inexactly, it's a whole shit-ton of load on a very thin part!

Approximately 31849 lbs of force.
 
Sure here are a few pictures of building some including my latest creation, Bultaco Astro replica tank. I am even reproducing the Bultaco gas caps, and in the picture below shows the original and my reproduction. Thanks for the comments Curtis...!!!!
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread but this is fantastic! My '81 Special II tank is rusted though. I just dumped the gas that had been sitting for 22 years and it was more rust slush than gas. Considering its rusted through on the outside in a couple places and flexes easily in places to slight pressure, I'm guessing the tank will be more trouble than its worth. Wondering if anyone has recommendations on custom tanks. Aluminum seems like it'd be great if done right. No rust to worry about and lighter. Thoughts or recommendations?
 
Sorry to revive an old thread but this is fantastic! My '81 Special II tank is rusted though. I just dumped the gas that had been sitting for 22 years and it was more rust slush than gas. Considering its rusted through on the outside in a couple places and flexes easily in places to slight pressure, I'm guessing the tank will be more trouble than its worth. Wondering if anyone has recommendations on custom tanks. Aluminum seems like it'd be great if done right. No rust to worry about and lighter. Thoughts or recommendations?
Welcome to the forum!
You might have to modify one, but they're out there. Here's one from India. Maybe contact those guys about your needs? I suspect they do one offs.

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You got me curious. Here's one made for our bikes. A bit on the spendy side though...

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Thanks, Jim! I'll reach out to the builder in India to see if they make custom tanks. I found this Omega one today too and emailed them some questions to see if it can be modified for the '81. Only one petcock on my bike. I'll let you know what I find out or anything else that might work.

TC Bros also makes tanks but they're kinda small. All like 2 gallons. Not sure if smaller tanks is part of a bobber build but I'll keep looking for something closer to stock. http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/metric-parts/xs650-chopper-and-bobber-parts.html
 
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