At this point I would be inclined to have those expensive guys who do liners look at your tank. Might be expensive but might be able to correct the problem without ruining then paint.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Mailman’s XS2 , pulled the engine for top end repair
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Yeah, I’ll have to think about that. I am reluctant to just keep throwing money at it.
You've all seen me source some pretty rare parts in the last few years. Wanna bet if I can find Bob a tank with a cleaner interior in the Pacific Northwest?
You've all seen me source some pretty rare parts in the last few years. Wanna bet if I can find Bob a tank with a cleaner interior in the Pacific Northwest?
You do have a way of sniffing out some really nice parts for sure! I’d be interested to see what you could find.
@GLJ found a really nice tank and he kindly offered to let me have first shot at it, but I passed because I was waiting for my tank to come back.
I have read about flushing the engine with kerosene in several threads here on the forum. That is with the clutch in place. Have done it myself with no ill effects. Apparently, kero doesn't affect seals or rubber fittings so you should be able to use it on the clutch plates. Whether it is strong enough to move that crap remains to be seen. You've definitely been stitched up a bit here Bob.
got Jim written all over it
Kansas City is right on the way from Michigan to Arizona.....just sayin'....
Everybody chant in unison:
PAINT IT JIM, PAINT IT JIM, PAINT IT JIM PAINT IT JIM...
PAINT IT JIM, PAINT IT JIM, PAINT IT JIM PAINT IT JIM...
Beags, thank you for that offer. I haven’t decided just yet what I want to do.
Everybody chant in unison:
PAINT IT JIM, PAINT IT JIM, PAINT IT JIM PAINT IT JIM...
Oh leave Jim alone, he’s busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest.
Anything in the Petrol tank that can be dissolved will end up on the back of the intake valves. In the far distant past people that wanted to get back at someone they would pour sugar in their tank, same end result I would imagine.
Tank liners are a necessary evil, shortcut to a correct repair, in my limited opinion.
A good steel tank can be cleaned out and repaired either by welding, brazing, Silver soldering or soft tin mans solder, a method I have used in the past.
I’m sure it’ll be perfect once more when the hard work is done.
.....
"Good steel tank" can be Found !
Personally, I would not consider any liner, rust removal.. definitely not the "vinegar" treatment ever again. Tried that once and was pissed for many flushings with polishing stones and solvent.
If polishing stones and solvent aren't good enough, I don't want the tank.
Last edited:
Yes those tanks are hard to find. I don't remember what the inside of your original tank was like. If it was solid then removing everything would be cheaper than another tank plus paint.. You are in a tough situation. I am hesitant to line any tank also, however saying that my XS2 is lined with Por 15 and so far so good. Its too bad you guys can't get non ethanol down there.
If you guys were following, there's now epoxy in the tank. The manufacturer says it's near impossible to remove.
So, what have we learned here?
Motorcycle tanks rust. Most of our bikes are pushing 40+ and their tanks are showing signs of rust that can have a negative affect on our petcocks, fuel lines, filters, carburettors, intakes and, for all I know, combustion chambers and exhaust outlets. That's not to mention the possibility of them leaking fuel all over our garage floor. Most recommend the use of high octane fuel, preferably free of ethanol, but this is unavailable in some regions. The basic protection centres around keeping your tank topped up and monitoring the development of rusted areas visually. Where surface rust exists, periodic flushing with Evaporust or Metal Rescue, aided by the inclusion of some sort of "agitator", is advised, followed by a thorough drying and perhaps the addition of a film of oil to the surface before filling.
The jury is out on the tank liner bit unless the tank is showing signs of becoming a basket case - in which case, some recommend metal shop repair rather than the introduction of an epoxy into the system that may not be removable if things go astray. The use of a professional service to "do the job correctly" appears fraught with danger. I, personally, would cite Mailman's situation as the worst possible outcome when dealing with this issue in good faith. I am sure that there are many reputable companies that can deliver the desired liner into your tank efficiently and effectively but, there appears to be an element of risk. Even those members who have applied the liner themselves make reference to the "so far, so good" sentiment.
So what is the consensus?
Below are some photos of my tank. It was been flushed out previously with Evaporust and I fill it up at my local servo after each ride with 98 Octane Unleaded. My intention is to leave it be. I was never keen on the liner idea and, following Bob's experience, I am less inclined than ever to risk the process. Do we line or perform regular flush and fill?
I am not being mercenary here Bob. I can clearly imagine the disappointment and frustration you are feeling but, I know you will come out on top as usual and I would like some positive direction to be salvaged from this screw up.
Cheers
Motorcycle tanks rust. Most of our bikes are pushing 40+ and their tanks are showing signs of rust that can have a negative affect on our petcocks, fuel lines, filters, carburettors, intakes and, for all I know, combustion chambers and exhaust outlets. That's not to mention the possibility of them leaking fuel all over our garage floor. Most recommend the use of high octane fuel, preferably free of ethanol, but this is unavailable in some regions. The basic protection centres around keeping your tank topped up and monitoring the development of rusted areas visually. Where surface rust exists, periodic flushing with Evaporust or Metal Rescue, aided by the inclusion of some sort of "agitator", is advised, followed by a thorough drying and perhaps the addition of a film of oil to the surface before filling.
The jury is out on the tank liner bit unless the tank is showing signs of becoming a basket case - in which case, some recommend metal shop repair rather than the introduction of an epoxy into the system that may not be removable if things go astray. The use of a professional service to "do the job correctly" appears fraught with danger. I, personally, would cite Mailman's situation as the worst possible outcome when dealing with this issue in good faith. I am sure that there are many reputable companies that can deliver the desired liner into your tank efficiently and effectively but, there appears to be an element of risk. Even those members who have applied the liner themselves make reference to the "so far, so good" sentiment.
So what is the consensus?
Below are some photos of my tank. It was been flushed out previously with Evaporust and I fill it up at my local servo after each ride with 98 Octane Unleaded. My intention is to leave it be. I was never keen on the liner idea and, following Bob's experience, I am less inclined than ever to risk the process. Do we line or perform regular flush and fill?
I am not being mercenary here Bob. I can clearly imagine the disappointment and frustration you are feeling but, I know you will come out on top as usual and I would like some positive direction to be salvaged from this screw up.
Cheers
Attachments
If this were mine, I'd leave it alone.
These bikes were made before ethanol fuel. I believe ethanol and sitting combine to be most of the problem.
@David Toll I've put a lot miles on gas tanks look like that n a bit worse. If I'm worried I drain a float bowl into a clean container now and then. I do not use extra fuel filters, the sock on the petcock intake tube is plenty.
Bikes that get no ethanol gas get an occasional "regular ethanol gas" fill, the alcohol combines with any water that may be sloshing around in the bottom and runs it through the motor. If it's a high compression motor I'll do it when I'm going to be droning off some miles on the highway without big full power surges.
Bikes that get no ethanol gas get an occasional "regular ethanol gas" fill, the alcohol combines with any water that may be sloshing around in the bottom and runs it through the motor. If it's a high compression motor I'll do it when I'm going to be droning off some miles on the highway without big full power surges.
This was from the first liner that melted. My bike had started running poorly before I parked it. I knew the liner was melting and I assumed that the cause of my issues was a plugged up idle circuit. When I parked the bike I failed to notice the insides of the intake tract.
The only reason I lined this tank in the first place was it was severely rusted and I worried that if I didn’t line it, rust would come through after I paid for an expensive paint job. A couple photos from when I first got the bike,
