Vapor Blasting Prices

I realize that prior to reassembly, all parts would need to be clean, but what is the probability or risk of the blasting media being stuck in an orifice or recess, that may become dislodged when the machine is back in operation? Is blowing the parts out with compressed air good enough to ensure cleanliness?
 
All depends on the media. If you were soda blasting then most likely no harm but high abrasives like sand, glass or metal oxides would not be good in the engine as bearing surfaces would score.

Other issue is plugged up galleries. That is nothing that a good wash and blowing out with compressed air can’t solve. I wait until everything is fully dried after a good wash and then blow everything out with compressed air. Just need to be thorough. If you have concerns with a specific gallery just plug it up before you start. I see it as a none issue with proper pre and post prep.
 
Ok thx. Once the parts have been blasted, do they need to be coated with a clear coat or something to slow down the oxidation of the surface of the metal?
 
Ok thx. Once the parts have been blasted, do they need to be coated with a clear coat or something to slow down the oxidation of the surface of the metal?

I had the cases, cylinder, head, top cover, & bits vapor blasted on my '74 TX. After 2-3 years I can say that some corrosion does start to creep in. My guy suggested something called ACF-50. Comes in a spray can. I never put it on, and now am kicking myself. The corrosion is not awful, mind you. But it is there. ACF-50 is not a clear coat, but some kind of corrosion inhibitor. I think you pays yer money and takes yer choice.
 
Very interesting thread, be looking to perhaps do this myself. As much as I have to do it would be worth the expense compared to what I've been quoted at $60 hr.
 
I have used Gibbs Brand Lubricant in the past to stave off oxidation. It is a GREAT product, but it's not cheap though. When I rebuilt my '78 motor I gave it a good coat, and have not seen much oxidation in the 4 years since then. I also coated a bare steel gas tank and it held off rust for two years in the shop before i saw the slightest amount of oxidation. It is worth a look. www.gibbsbrand.info
 
I have used Gibbs Brand Lubricant in the past to stave off oxidation. It is a GREAT product, but it's not cheap though. When I rebuilt my '78 motor I gave it a good coat, and have not seen much oxidation in the 4 years since then. I also coated a bare steel gas tank and it held off rust for two years in the shop before i saw the slightest amount of oxidation. It is worth a look. www.gibbsbrand.info
Interesting. I’ll have to look into that. Had a quick look at the link and it appears to be dry after applied? Hope it’s not one of those things you can only buy in the US.

edit: found the Canadian distributor. $37.00 a can shipped. You’re right it’s not cheap. Thx
 
That I don't know about shipping to the Great White North. I think there is a misconception about being "dry" after application. It sprays on like WD40 does, but it absorbs into the metal and does not leave a tacky petrol byproduct behind. The viscosity is as thin as water, if not thinner.
 
I had the cases, cylinder, head, top cover, & bits vapor blasted on my '74 TX. After 2-3 years I can say that some corrosion does start to creep in. My guy suggested something called ACF-50. Comes in a spray can. I never put it on, and now am kicking myself. The corrosion is not awful, mind you. But it is there. ACF-50 is not a clear coat, but some kind of corrosion inhibitor. I think you pays yer money and takes yer choice.
ACF 50 is a good product. Corrosion inhibiter and lubricant. I use it for lubing cables and any steel bolt heads to stop corrosion. Never used it on aluminum.

For the aluminum cases, you could spray them with ACF-50 but will be oily and I suspect would stain the aluminum when it gets hot. It is basically oil with some anticorrosion inhibiters. I don't do anything with them other than some Autosol to polish then up more. It does produce a protective layer but again, not sure how long it lasts with the heat. I use it for all my mirror polished surfaces and have never had it tarnish on me.
 
Interesting. I’ll have to look into that. Had a quick look at the link and it appears to be dry after applied? Hope it’s not one of those things you can only buy in the US.

edit: found the Canadian distributor. $37.00 a can shipped. You’re right it’s not cheap. Thx
Royal Distributing has it. That is where I get mine from.
 
Royal Distributing has it. That is where I get mine from.
That I don't know about shipping to the Great White North. I think there is a misconception about being "dry" after application. It sprays on like WD40 does, but it absorbs into the metal and does not leave a tacky petrol byproduct behind. The viscosity is as thin as water, if not thinner.
There are two online options to buy in Canada, shipping from British Colombia. About $37 if you buy one can and down to about $22 if you buy a case of 12. If local guys are interested I could possibly order a case to get the cost down. Maybe some of the guys in my circle of car club friends would be interested too.
 
I believe it is a great product. A little goes a long way. I found a lot of great uses for it over the years.
 
I believe it is a great product. A little goes a long way. I found a lot of great uses for it over the years.
Just posted a feeler in my car club group to see if I can get enough interest to buy a case. Was looking for a product like this that doesn’t leave the oily film. The film is ok on some parts of the bike or car, but a “‘dry” corrosion inhibitor would be great for other areas such as engine components and engine bays, thx for the tip.
 
Just posted a feeler in my car club group to see if I can get enough interest to buy a case. Was looking for a product like this that doesn’t leave the oily film. The film is ok on some parts of the bike or car, but a “‘dry” corrosion inhibitor would be great for other areas such as engine components and engine bays, thx for the tip.

I would use that “dry” term very loosely. It is not that dry. It will leave a film at least in my experience. Like is said, I use it as a lubricant for my cables. I would experiment with it first before you coat bare aluminum. You may not like the end result. Basically a better version of WD-40.

Fortnine also carries it in Canada at a cheaper price that you are finding.

https://fortnine.ca/en/acf-50-anti-...8REbNqVAHIUD1NndRR9UtchoCGskQAvD_BwE#493=1413
 

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I would use that “dry” term very loosely. It is not that dry. It will leave a film at least in my experience. Like is said, I use it as a lubricant for my cables. I would experiment with it first before you coat bare aluminum. You may not like the end result. Basically a better version of WD-40.

Fortnine also carries it in Canada at a cheaper price that you are finding.

https://fortnine.ca/en/acf-50-anti-...8REbNqVAHIUD1NndRR9UtchoCGskQAvD_BwE#493=1413
Thx. For clarification, the pricing references made on posts 51 & 53 were for the Gibbs Brand Lubricant.
 
Managed to find a guy about an hour away that was good, fast, and cheap.

Had him do the Norton engine cases and head.

Dropped everything off Saturday and had it back today. It only cost $80 canadian (for all three).

Before:

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4674C996-6006-4C9D-89F6-362FCC974439.jpeg

After:
A278DEE7-C2E6-4907-B309-9E57EBDBB813.jpeg

86403070-A30F-45BA-9011-3FA38C333A31.jpeg
 
Normally the words good and cheap don’t belong in the same sentence together. But I think in your case, that’s a huge win.
 
Normally the words good and cheap don’t belong in the same sentence together. But I think in your case, that’s a huge win.

Yeah, I used to have a boss, Engineering manager, who would tell the project guys when they wanted something, "Good, Fast, Cheap, Pick Two"
 
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