Messing around with moderate rearsets

arcticXS

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Today, I have been messing around a bit with my home made, rubber mounted footpeg plates, and some Cognito Moto universal rearsets. Trying to maintain clearance to kickstarter, exhaust pipe and footpeg mounting studs/ nuts at the same time, without making any permanent alterations is doing my head in. Now I can see why Bjørn made the brake pedal curve down before pointing forward, when he was designing his superb looking setup. That is what is needed to avoid the pedal hitting the lower/forward stud and nut.
Peg folded down.jpg
Peg folded up.jpg
I just had to go inside and make some dinner before my head exploded.
 
I tried two sets of cheap, universal rear sets before I bit the bullet and purchased some made for the XS650.
You'll have to get used to the buzziness.
 
I tried two sets of cheap, universal rear sets before I bit the bullet and purchased some made for the XS650.
You'll have to get used to the buzziness.
No way. It will be rubber mounted or none. And the peg location is perfect for me, sporty, but not too extreme, and not interfering with the stock passenger pegs.
 
Yep every set of XS650 rearsets I've seen had fun dealing with that conundrum.
If only Yamaha had used bolts, and welded in threaded bungs in the frame...... Then flat head, internal hex drive shoulder bolts would have solved the issue easily.
 
No way. It will be rubber mounted or none. And the peg location is perfect for me, sporty, but not too extreme, and not interfering with the stock passenger pegs.
It was a minor annoyance but now I don't even notice it.
 
I have Raask rear sets on my bike. Not perfect on the right side. Needed to trim the brake pedal to allow the kickstarter yo be used and the kickstarter interferes with the brake pedal linkage on full application of the rear brake.

0FFB575A-3F3A-462F-8C68-0E4FA7545C2C.png
 
On the picture posted above, you can see the business end of the Raask gear shift lever, as supplied, looks like a tapered pin. That’s what I have and the po had stretched a conventional gear shifter rubber on it. Because of the taper, the rubber keeps splitting. Any thoughts on what may work better in this application? The cross section of the tapered piece is not round. It’s more of an oval shape.
 
Easy enough to cut off existing studs and do that...
Yes, it would be an easy mod. But I prefer any mods to be reversible, so don't want to cut, drill and weld....It looks like I will have to make a new brake pedal from scratch. Just need to get hold of some 6060 or 6082 in 20 or 22 mm thickness.
 
Today, I have been messing around a bit with my home made, rubber mounted footpeg plates, and some Cognito Moto universal rearsets. Trying to maintain clearance to kickstarter, exhaust pipe and footpeg mounting studs/ nuts at the same time, without making any permanent alterations is doing my head in. Now I can see why Bjørn made the brake pedal curve down before pointing forward, when he was designing his superb looking setup. That is what is needed to avoid the pedal hitting the lower/forward stud and nut. View attachment 183202 View attachment 183203 I just had to go inside and make some dinner before my head exploded.
How will you be able to use the kickstarter or are you deleting its’ use?
 
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How will you be able to use the kickstarter or are you deleting it’s use?
No, I definitely want to keep the kickstarter. The footpeg itself folds up, and the brake pedal should sit just below the kickstarter shaft and knucle. The problem I am struggling with is the forward/ lower footpeg mounting stud and nut. The fix for this will have to be a curved brake pedal, like in Bjorn's superb CNC rearsets.
 
The reason I made the brake pedal tip foldable is because if I were to kick more than 180° from the top. the kickstarter would hit the brake. You could move everything more forward and not have this problem.

However its all linked together, the brake is relative to the peg position.

If you need any dimensions let me know
 
Bjørn,
Thanks for your offer! As it looks now, the only proper solution is making a curved brake pedal, like you did.
Moving the pegs more aft will cause interference between the brake pedal toe peg and kickstarter.
Adding spacers to move them out will make the kickstarter hit the brake pedal arm.
Moving the pegs down will cause interference between brake pedal and exhaust. As it sits on the pics I posted, the brake pedal hits the nut and stud. Note that I am using 12 point flange nuts, to get a little bit more clearance than with the stock domed nuts. They are also a bit lighter, being Ti
 
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The reason I made the brake pedal tip foldable is because if I were to kick more than 180° from the top. the kickstarter would hit the brake. You could move everything more forward and not have this problem.

However its all linked together, the brake is relative to the peg position.

If you need any dimensions let me know
Can you post pics of your set up? I haven’t seen it yet but sounds interesting.
 
Yes, it would be an easy mod. But I prefer any mods to be reversible, so don't want to cut, drill and weld....It looks like I will have to make a new brake pedal from scratch. Just need to get hold of some 6060 or 6082 in 20 or 22 mm thickness.

I have some 7050 T7451 I’m happy to donate to the cause if you’re interested, just pay shipping?
 
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