My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

I spin it so its hard to tell if I have it set 'straight'.
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Motion Pro chain alignment tool. This will get it straight.
My foot shifter is broken and almost striped.
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Available at Dime City, MikesXS, eBay, etc.
 
Bleeding the master cylinder isn't always the nightmare often written about. It can go very well too. Use patience and finesse for the victory
;)
Yeah I have done brake bleeding on cars/trucks before. Im not sure why I dread it so much. Just tedious lol
 
I think the wheel is out of true. I think I have it secured properly. I can give it a good kick all around and it doesn't budge. I will try to get pictures soon

Here are some photos of the wheel. Looking from the back it doesnt look straight. Bleh. Its hard to tell its straight when the chain cover is on too. The chain cover is a major pain to move too.


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OK, first things first - you have the axle inserted from the wrong side. The nut should be on the left (sprocket) side. That may require swapping the chain adjusters side to side as well, if they're originals. The one for the left side was made with a smaller hole through it. It only fits over the threaded part of the axle, which is slightly smaller than the shaft itself .....

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You may not have much luck trying to straighten that bent flange on the rim with the tire still on there. I think the rubber will just absorb most of the hammer blows you're trying to use against it. Looking over the rim pictures though, there seems to be quite a bit of rust on the sprocket side, more than will clean off, so I'm not sure that rim is worth saving anyway.
 
Those chain adjuster bolts should show roughly the same amount of thread both sides. Is this where you said they are not the same? They look very, don't want to be impolite, tired. Would recommend replacing the adjuster bolts and lock nuts.

To get the wheel straight, you need to loosen the spindle, loosen the locknuts, set the bike straight, get low on the floor and peer. Go to the front and make sure the front wheel is in line with the back. Moving your head slightly to left and right, the rear tyre should come into view at the same distance from the centre line. Then repeat from the rear and make sure there is the same amount of back tyre showing left and right as the front wheel comes into view. Bit hard to explain but should be fairly obvious when you take a look.

Alternatively, use a long straight edge - piece of angle iron or a long, straight timber. Place it across the rear tyre, touching in two places, and look how far out from the front tyre it sits. Should be the same both sides.

If not, wind the adjusters until you have it the same both sides. Then tighten the spindle and the lock nuts.
 
OK, first things first - you have the axle inserted from the wrong side. The nut should be on the left (sprocket) side. That may require swapping the chain adjusters side to side as well, if they're originals. The one for the left side was made with a smaller hole through it. It only fits over the threaded part of the axle, which is slightly smaller than the shaft itself .....

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You may not have much luck trying to straighten that bent flange on the rim with the tire still on there. I think the rubber will just absorb most of the hammer blows you're trying to use against it. Looking over the rim pictures though, there seems to be quite a bit of rust on the sprocket side, more than will clean off, so I'm not sure that rim is worth saving anyway.
Interesting! I guess the shaft was backward on the old wheel also. Ill flip it around
 
I think his adjuster bolts are mismatched (not the same). That's maybe why the exposed amount of threads differ. The bolts may not be the same length.
 
Those chain adjuster bolts should show roughly the same amount of thread both sides. Is this where you said they are not the same? They look very, don't want to be impolite, tired. Would recommend replacing the adjuster bolts and lock nuts.

To get the wheel straight, you need to loosen the spindle, loosen the locknuts, set the bike straight, get low on the floor and peer. Go to the front and make sure the front wheel is in line with the back. Moving your head slightly to left and right, the rear tyre should come into view at the same distance from the centre line. Then repeat from the rear and make sure there is the same amount of back tyre showing left and right as the front wheel comes into view. Bit hard to explain but should be fairly obvious when you take a look.

Alternatively, use a long straight edge - piece of angle iron or a long, straight timber. Place it across the rear tyre, touching in two places, and look how far out from the front tyre it sits. Should be the same both sides.

If not, wind the adjusters until you have it the same both sides. Then tighten the spindle and the lock nuts.

Yeah I think I may just buy new adjusters. The right side looks like it uses the original bolt. The left side has a bolt with a different size head so I have to use different wrenches.
 
Yeah I think I may just buy new adjusters. The right side looks like it uses the original bolt. The left side has a bolt with a different size head so I have to use different wrenches.
No. Go to the local hardware store and buy two M8 bolt 40 mm long. Take an old one to match the thread pitch. New lock nuts while you're at it.
 
That rear wheel sure is far back in the adjustment range ?
Chain stretched that much? Worn out?
Or maybe set too tight..
I actually had to remove 2 links. Since the old sprocket had 10 more teeth it was set pretty big. I tried setting it as loose as I felt comfortable

I do plan on replacing the chain in the future. Just not now. Funds are dwindling.
 
There should be a notch on the top of the chain adjuster about over the center of the axle hole for aligning with the reference slash marks on the swingarm. The parts in your pics are so crusty I can't tell if they're there or not. But, if on the wrong sides and flipped upside down, the marks may be on the bottom side. Not much help there, lol .....

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There should be a notch on the top of the chain adjuster about over the center of the axle hole for aligning with the reference slash marks on the swingarm. The parts in your pics are so crusty I can't tell if they're there or not. But, if on the wrong sides and flipped upside down, the marks may be on the bottom side. Not much help there, lol .....

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Yeah I have those tick marks. I tried my best to use em. But That is where It think my wheel isnt straight. When I first eye balled it JUST by the tick marks alone, my wheel was tapping against the chain guard :S
 
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The chrome axle adjusters have corresponding marks to use on that swingarm adjustment scale
Ah. Yep found it when I reverser that shaft. Made it alot easier to get the sides at the same point.

I got stuff put back together and was gonna take it for a spin down the cul de sac. I try shifting and it dies. Looks like I need to tweak the clutch cable. Irs pretty much not engaging at all.

When I was fiddling with that. My shifter level shot shit. It fell off and it won't secure right enough. Guess I gotta wait for a new one to try it out anymore.

2 steps forward. 1 back.
 
You can get out the Dremel with cut off wheel and widen the slot a touch to tighten the shift lever a bit more.
 
You can get out the Dremel with cut off wheel and widen the slot a touch to tighten the shift lever a bit more.
It is currently in 2 pieces. The bottom part severed and it was only being held on but the tightness of the bolt. And the inside teeth as too stripped to be usefull at full tightness
 
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