Clutch basket nut and clutch springs

Yes, it's a dished type lock washer, see here .....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer

Here's a parts diagram. The Belleville washer is part "j" .....

ie48Tbk.jpg


You couldn't use the tabbed lock washer that gets bent up against the side of the nut even if you wanted to. It has two little tabs that lock it into the clutch hub. The hub has two little slots cut into it for those washer tabs to fit into. Your early hub doesn't have those slots .....

ldnrSnB.jpg
 
I have three XS650s (a 76C, a 78E and an '81SH and over the years, I have been into the clutches on all of them. I discovered that in fact, my bikes have a 29mm, a 30mm and a 31mm clutch hub nut (i.e. each has a different sized nut) and so it appears that someone has either been in there before, or Yamaha was shopping around for fasteners and used whatever they got the best deal on.

I am sure there is a standard size and I think it is 29mm - but only one of my bikes uses that particular size.

When I ran into this situation, I went to Princess Automotive (the CDN counterpart to Harbor Fright) and they had open stock on all three sizes for around, I think $9-12 each. Sooooo, I bought a set running from about 27-34mm just so I wouldn't be caught out. It cost me about $100 or so - but waaaaay cheaper than paying someone else to work on my bikes.

So, if you are going to venture inside the RH side engine case cover to mess with your clutch, here is my advice:
  1. Get a JIS impact driver for the six stock clutch basket screws. If they are not chowdered already, using a regular screwdriver will likely do so and if they are chowdered, you will NOT get them off without an decent impact driver. Once you have them off, consider replacing them with a set of XS Performance socket-head cap screws (SHCS = Allen screws) - these are MUCH easier to deal with and as long as you use a good Allen key on them, they will not strip.
  2. Wait until you get things opened up and can see what size the big clutch hub nut is - then measure it and go buy that sized socket.
  3. Use an electric buzz-gun to get the clutch hub nut loosened.
  4. Use a torque wrench to put everything back together.
  5. Those interesting looking clutch holding tools are a waste of money. Just put the bike in gear and have a helpful assistant stand on the rear brake while you torque the hub centre nut.
Pete
 
Yes, it's a dished type lock washer, see here .....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer

Here's a parts diagram. The Belleville washer is part "j" .....

ie48Tbk.jpg


You couldn't use the tabbed lock washer that gets bent up against the side of the nut even if you wanted to. It has two little tabs that lock it into the clutch hub. The hub has two little slots cut into it for those washer tabs to fit into. Your early hub doesn't have those slots .....

ldnrSnB.jpg
 
Yes, it's a dished type lock washer, see here .....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer

Here's a parts diagram. The Belleville washer is part "j" .....

ie48Tbk.jpg


You couldn't use the tabbed lock washer that gets bent up against the side of the nut even if you wanted to. It has two little tabs that lock it into the clutch hub. The hub has two little slots cut into it for those washer tabs to fit into. Your early hub doesn't have those slots .....

ldnrSnB.jpg
Can that washer flatten out to much to not be affective
I overthink all of this :banghead:
God forbid I try and work on carbs (you guys would have to hold my hand constantly) :hump:
Thanks for being patient with me I appreciate it a lot
 
I have three XS650s (a 76C, a 78E and an '81SH and over the years, I have been into the clutches on all of them. I discovered that in fact, my bikes have a 29mm, a 30mm and a 31mm clutch hub nut (i.e. each has a different sized nut) and so it appears that someone has either been in there before, or Yamaha was shopping around for fasteners and used whatever they got the best deal on.

I am sure there is a standard size and I think it is 29mm - but only one of my bikes uses that particular size.

When I ran into this situation, I went to Princess Automotive (the CDN counterpart to Harbor Fright) and they had open stock on all three sizes for around, I think $9-12 each. Sooooo, I bought a set running from about 27-34mm just so I wouldn't be caught out. It cost me about $100 or so - but waaaaay cheaper than paying someone else to work on my bikes.

So, if you are going to venture inside the RH side engine case cover to mess with your clutch, here is my advice:
  1. Get a JIS impact driver for the six stock clutch basket screws. If they are not chowdered already, using a regular screwdriver will likely do so and if they are chowdered, you will NOT get them off without an decent impact driver. Once you have them off, consider replacing them with a set of XS Performance socket-head cap screws (SHCS = Allen screws) - these are MUCH easier to deal with and as long as you use a good Allen key on them, they will not strip.
  2. Wait until you get things opened up and can see what size the big clutch hub nut is - then measure it and go buy that sized socket.
  3. Use an electric buzz-gun to get the clutch hub nut loosened.
  4. Use a torque wrench to put everything back together.
  5. Those interesting looking clutch holding tools are a waste of money. Just put the bike in gear and have a helpful assistant stand on the rear brake while you torque the hub centre nut.
Pete
I used an electric impact wrench to get it off, and the last time I was in there and I installed allen screws Because yes the screws were buggered up And I also paid dearly for 2 clutch hub holding tools too (spend a buck to save 50 cents )
What the hell I'll hang it on the wall as a conversation starter (I'll tell em it's to fix the knifler valve on the bike)
 
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I have the cheapo MikesXS holder, the one that's reported to be weak and easily bent, but only because it came in a clutch parts assortment I got off of eBay. So far, it's worked fine, but I am careful with it. Before that, I used my own similar homemade version, nothing more than a loop handle welded on an old steel clutch plate .....

CqLDuND.jpg


These work very well, probably because the handle runs through two slots in the hub instead of only one like the MikesXS tool. I do like that EBC one though. It locks the two hubs together all the way around. I have extra junk clutch plates. I may have to try building one of those.
 
Can that washer flatten out to much to not be affective
I overthink all of this :banghead:
God forbid I try and work on carbs (you guys would have to hold my hand constantly) :hump:
Thanks for being patient with me I appreciate it a lot
Damned if Yamabits knows what they are they sell them
XS650 Clutch Hub Belleville Lock Washer
 
I have the cheapo MikesXS holder, the one that's reported to be weak and easily bent, but only because it came in a clutch parts assortment I got off of eBay. So far, it's worked fine, but I am careful with it. Before that, I used my own similar homemade version, nothing more than a loop handle welded on an old steel clutch plate .....

CqLDuND.jpg


These work very well, probably because the handle runs through two slots in the hub instead of only one like the MikesXS tool. I do like that EBC one though. It locks the two hubs together all the way around. I have extra junk clutch plates. I may have to try building one of those.
I'd try building one seeing is you have a welder
 
I'd try building one seeing is you have a welder
I'm sure I'll need a holder to torque the nut back on
I believe I tried the motion pro one, the last time I put the nut back on:banghead: it's a goofy setup
So I'm sure I bought the other one, and it worked fine (I'll use it again)
 
I take it you brace the basket holder against something to free up one hand

Doing this task with an attractive assistant makes it MUCH easier.
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The bike is on the wheels and is in gear and the AA just mashes down on the rear brake.

Obviously, you must either lash the bike to something so that it stands-up vertical or you need an AA which sufficiently long legs...;)
 
Doing this task with an attractive assistant makes it MUCH easier.
ZgblYKf9FfnUpQvuxB_uGPmjR9pDq0hKAKIq3zFoYzyt1vojvfwBfcNW6bJDvkGbua3YGCpLFW-DC_ptMKfpcdI8abatnORAKkx953tqC4k5Dxv61RQFKw


The bike is on the wheels and is in gear and the AA just mashes down on the rear brake.

Obviously, you must either lash the bike to something so that it stands-up vertical or you need an AA which sufficiently long legs...;)
That's what I need someone to distract me when I'm about to get Pi@@d off
"yes dear your right I should just relax and quit for a while "
 
Yes, it's a dished type lock washer, see here .....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer

Here's a parts diagram. The Belleville washer is part "j" .....

ie48Tbk.jpg


You couldn't use the tabbed lock washer that gets bent up against the side of the nut even if you wanted to. It has two little tabs that lock it into the clutch hub. The hub has two little slots cut into it for those washer tabs to fit into. Your early hub doesn't have those slots .....

ldnrSnB.jpg
I found out I have the split washer At least I laid them out in order just didn't pay attention of what I was laying down:banghead:
 

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    IMG_20210226_132609990.jpg
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Yes, I think the earlier bikes used a normal type split lock washer. That Belleville washer didn't come along until the late '70s. My '78 had one.
 
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