An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild

Here's a link for you. You want a Motion Pro #05-0013 .....

https://www.amazon.com/76-81-YAMAHA...h+cable&qid=1612905808&sr=8-3&tag=googhydr-20

And yes, oil before install, they come almost dry.

There is just a little more to consider when shopping for a clutch cable. Such as Handlebars ! Which bars are you going to stick with?
A "Special" cable is long. A "Standard" cable is shorter?
Here is a pic of a "Special" cable routed using very short low bars. All worked out well.

Yeah, I thought of that. I ordered the new MotionPro 05-0013 earlier... Same one 5Twins linked to I believe. I went for it hoping I could make it work and wanted to get order in. Didn't see length of 05-0013 cable spec'd on item description. At the moment don't have time to look at length that new bars etc would need and find one that's more exact. I have these new bars here but need to put them on still--and asap too as the high ones make several things awkward to me (PO put on bars that're higher than stock). I figure if it's too long I'll route it differently or if it's too short for high bars, on go the new ones. I also have the OG bars if all else fails so could put those on for it until I have time to get right length of cable for new bars

The original Special cable isn't much longer than the Standard one, only an inch or so, but since you need to re-route it over to and down the right side of the steering neck with low bars, that little extra length is easily absorbed and may actually work in your favor. I'm not 100% sure but the Motion Pro cable may match the slightly longer Special length.

5twins said:

Here's a link for you. You want a Motion Pro #05-0013 .....

https://www.amazon.com/76-81-YAMAHA...h+cable&qid=1612905808&sr=8-3&tag=googhydr-20

And yes, oil before install, they come almost dry.

Click to expand...

I’ll be ordering one too and for the first time, I can actually buy it for much less up here than from the US. Go figure!

I'm alive!
OKay, I've managed to get a place and time to work on the bike starting tomorrow afternoon through Monday, possibly early Tuesday. I intend to bang out as much as I can in that time as that's all I'll be doing during the daylight hours there.
Such as:
(1) clutch cable replacement
(2) handlebar swap
(3) carb sediment inspection
(4) valve/cam chain inspection (and adjust if I have time and can figure)
(5) pad the battery area
(6) work on new seat (position will be weird with new bars and same seat)
(7) leak assessment and hopefully resolution (new, or possibly same, oil leak returned a few days ago)
(8) anything else I can get to to resolve idle sassiness

Updates: bike is still dropping low in idle (still need carb check and after that maybe the TCI). In last two days, however, after longer rides (30min+), the idle has started exceeding 1.5k. If I kill the bike and wait a few minutes, it levels back out.

All for now, I'll keep you updated!

Video of the idle when I returned home yesterday

Also, leak video: Obviously need to clean up and inspect where leak is coming from but this is what I'm seeing underneath so far

Well, I see oil drips on both drain plugs, but the oil could be just migrating there because they are the low points. But, if you didn't change the drain plug seal washers, that could very well be it. They need to be replaced maybe every half dozen oil changes or so. By then they're all flattened out and no longer doing their job (sealing). But unfortunately, it's pretty common for them to never get replaced, lol. Then you end up with what you've got, a mess all over the bottom of the motor.

Most of the oil mess is favoring the left side of the engine. Could be leaking more from that side or sitting on the sidestand makes it run that way. Best way I know to find a leak(s) is to wash off the old oil, run it and looks for where it's coming from.

Would try lowering that high idle slightly by screwing the idle adjuster out.

Probably mean the idle would be low when the bike is cold, so might need to hold a little throttle to keep the engine running.

Hi -- Now we are talking you are on the road !!!
Looking at the videos ..
Nothing much going on there with the idle .see Raymond # 470
I don't think you ever can get a spot on fix Idling Rev independent of temperature .
I don't have that -- don't think I ever had in 35 years. and find myself adjusting it by hand now and then on the road and back again further on
A small pliers or wrench in jacket pocket can help. But most of the times it is done by hand. Without tools.
Perhaps it is the throttle wire I have not looked into it

Does it start properly .and does not kick back at the kick starter . Have you checked ignition timing with a strobe light.

Hey everyone.
Quick update on the work and question about brakes...
(1) Front Brake. Rust or dirty fluid and sediment? Looked at brake fluid because on my way out here (and days prior) I noticed that my braking power in front brake was quite weak. I'm sliding to a stop practically and also squeaking when I'm there; most of the stop is coming from the rear brake. Anyway, opened up the brake fluid reservoir. Clearly it's very low, but I'm concerned about the color and sediment. Do you normally get sediment in there when it's this dirty, or would the only possibility be rust? The solution to which I imagine would be bleeding the brakes and probably a new cable? The lids have residue on them but it's hard (for me) to say if someone put a silent on there or if it's rust or same sediment, though I don't see how the sediment would work its way upwards. I could scrape off what was on lid and wipe off what was in reservoir except for what was on bottom of fluid reservoir--it was pretty on there which seems more rust like. (see bunch of pics below.)
I sucked out fluid and wiped out as much residue as I could and put fluid back in as I wasn't sure what to do with it yet and it was clearly already in my lines. If it's not rust, can I just add more brake fluid and that it? special rust test I don't know about?
(2) Oil leak. Not sur on source yet, but cleaned up inside LH cover and ran for a bit before I did other work yesterday. Ran for about 5 minutes as I wanted to get to other things but only leak I saw in that time was actually from here first.

So jury is still out there; more investigating on source to do. Didn't see from pushrod seal when I looked in there after. What I did also notice though was that on RH cover, when the bike was running, I didn't see the oil moving around in the oil window the way I normally do when it's running. Then with the bike off, oil showed low on the sight glass. Checked dipstick, showed very low side of normal so perhaps that's all it is but point is that I don't see why the oil should be so low when I haven't seen the leak being significant enough to warrant that and I changed the oil not that long ago. I did also notice that on the RH side where the oil filter goes, a bit of oil pooling at the seam. It wasn't pouring out, but perhaps it had at another time and I somehow missed it.

Saw residue on the exhaust on right side but it was further back than the oil filter location, not running down from there directly. I know there's more investigating to do there, just putting this out there. Wondering if I have a leak coming out from the bottom of RH cover seam judging from residue..

(3) took out old clutch cable and oiled new one and I have the new bars on but not secured yet as I need to make a temporary seat to ride back on (which will tell me how I want to position bars and thus the cable routing) as the seating position is wonky with low bars and normal seat now. I'm thinking steel (gauge recommendations?) cut with angle grinder, foam and leather from an old seat I have around, secure it...somehow, cut it in shape to fit teeth in the front and then some sort of fastener in the back...

(4) tried to look in carb bowl and of course one of the drain screws is stuck. The head has been messed with too many times with the wrong tools it seems. Put penetrant on it. Hopefully that'll work and then I can drain them and take off bowls.

Overall, the bike made it here (an 1.5-2 hour streets/non-highway trip) okay! Brakes were biggest issue.

Needing to have bike in good enough shape to ride back to my place by Thursday. So priorities are cable, oil level being normal (which I'll address after brakes and cable/seat I'm thinking), and brakes. Certainly not getting to all the things I was hoping--always takes longer and you always find things you don't expect!

Your brake fluid looks awful, lol. It's a combination of it being old and rust. As brake fluid ages, it absorbs water. That turns it dark or brown and also can start causing rust to form (because of the water in it), like on that top cover steel part. New or fresh fluid is almost clear, maybe a bit on the yellow side. The fact that your brake is starting to not work very well is a sign that lots of the gunk and rust has worked it's way down into the master cylinder. The best course of action would be to take the whole thing apart and clean all the gunk out of it. Just pumping fresh fluid through it may not be enough to clean it out, usually isn't, but you could try because I don't think you're equipped to tear down a master cylinder.

Short comments
Yes the brake fluid is dirty.
And I tend to ride mine till it is to late and the brake pistons are rusted. It is not so difficult to change fluid.
and since it is a safety issue .I dont think any sealant is used.
My front brake has never been good by today's standard.
Oil Fill up and don't let it go low. If you have small leaks needs to check often.
The side cover leak ..there is a gasket in there .But some gasket forming slop on the right places like
Permatex .And put it back will stop that leak
There is a filter in there that perhaps need service.
Carburetor draining If you plan to take down the bowls .. With the carburetor in bike
You don't need to get the drain plug out.
You can take the bowls down and a coffecup of Gas will spill . ( hose off or petcock off )
If you are careful you can do that without spilling.
No flames and perhaps outdoors for the fumes

MarieKaramazov said:

I'm sliding to a stop practically and also squeaking when I'm there; most of the stop is coming from the rear brake.

Click to expand...

Guessing it isn't the front brake squeaking?
While you are looking around for leaks, confirm there isn't a fork oil leak dripping down the fork leg which could be splashing onto the front brake rotor wetting the pads and even blowing back to the engine. Ya, the mastercylinder definitely needs a good purging of clean dot 3 brake fluid.
Pic of the front brake would be fun too

For best suspension action, the best way to mount handlebars is so their rise lines up with the fork tube angle. That way, any force you exert down into the bars gets transferred directly down into the forks. In your last pic, you have the new bars rolled too far back.

Also, with the new lower bars, you're going to have to reroute your clutch and throttle cables to "absorb" some of the extra length they'll now have. Switch the sides of the steering neck they currently run along .....

MarieKaramazov said:

. . . I sucked out fluid and wiped out as much residue as I could and put fluid back in as I wasn't sure what to do with it yet and it was clearly already in my lines. . .

Click to expand...

I'm concerned after reading the above. If you remove fluid from the master cylinder and wipe out some of the muck, you cannot just refill and assume the brake will work.

Serious problems will result if you allowed air to enter the system. Air downstream of the master cylinder, that is, air in the brake line, will make your brake ineffective. I hope you know about bleeding brakes? If not, NOW is the time you need to learn.

Not about to give a tutorial on bleeding brakes right here and now - there are good threads on this forum. But basically what you need to do is fully change the fluid. Usual way is drain from the caliper, with a clear plastic tube over the bleed nipple into a suitable reservoir such as a jam jar. Fill the master cylinder, pull the brake lever, loosen the bleed nipple - fluid will emerge into the tube - tighten the nipple, release the brake lever, pull it again and keep repeating, topping up the fluid as required until new, clear fluid and no bubbles emerge.

I think you need to bleed the brake, replace all the old fluid and ensure there is no air in the system before you ride the bike again.

My 2C.

Thanks everyone, especially @Raymond for noting that I definitely need to bleed the brakes first. Important question though: while I did my best to clean out the gunk, there's still rust stuck to the bottom of the master cylinder. I imagine that rust will eventually (or in short order or while bleeding?) make its way down the brake line and into the caliper etc. SO, is bleeding the brakes and then riding it home (2 hour trip) even advisable? In other words, should I just order a new MC and be out of commission until it arrives and I can switch it out and then bleed? I am assuming that there isn't something I can safely clean that rust out with just because whatever that fluid would be would run down the line...If I'm wrong there let me know. I was going to look up which cleaner to use to at least soak the lid and gasket in...
Looked at some threads on brake bleeding and I think I can figure it.

does that black 50's vette in the pic run? If so, tell the owner you need to drive it home! (kidding)
Bleed new brake fluid through the caliper until you feel clean fluid is in the caliper. Ride it home.
Don't allow the fraidy ol guys to convince you to do a rebuild, stuck where you are.
You've already shown you have street wise senses and are fearless enough to get away with riding home.
Kudos -R