An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild

Honestly, that's something I rarely, if ever, changed. The old ones always worked fine again. Sometimes I'll sand them smooth and anneal them, sometimes just use them as is, depends on the condition they're in.
 
Sorry for the absence, guys. My life blew up a bit this month. And then the bike kept coughing up more issues, and it really felt daunting with everything that still needs to be done in conjunction with my learning curve. But forget all that, back to picking up the pieces I go.

Ordering the brake hose and MC this week. Trying to find a decent looking MC that's low profile--changing out mirrors eventually so not worried about it fitting stock.

I'll have to look back at the thread for what was said about the forks. Right one is going at it still. Left seems okay now--but perhaps it's empty. I think I'm going to try to get at cleaning those today.
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There's a leak coming from behind right side oil filter cover. Need to open it up and see if I can decipher why. I changed out that filter not too long ago and it was fine for a bit so I don't know what's up. I can see that that screws fit in at different depths, perhaps I need to switch out sides.
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Also, there's another oil leak underneath LH side. Seems to be dropping down around same area that the pushrod seal leak came from. Haven't traced it yet, but it's still just a 4-5 drop leak at parking. But who knows how much it's leaking when I ride. Last I looked I don't think it's the seal. I need to clean the whole dang area and check it out. Then Gonna try running it with LH cover off to see what's leaking.

Clutch cable routing has been nice for pull but it keeps slipping out from under tank (I didn't same routing as Jim, with a bit more winds by the tach/spedo cuz of bars). So I'm probably going to have to run it down the frame. Still getting sass switching into neutral from first at stops, and noticing the idle does drop when I go into first from neutral. So I need to get at readjusting the clutch mechanism again. I was trying to fix from the perch, and it improved, but still not quite right. Going into that cover today anyway.

As far as idle in general, it increases the longer I ride. I turned the idle screw down a touch to compensate for that for now.

Bleed nipple kept eeking out that tiny leak for some days, but it has stopped now. So I'm going to forgo switching out that nipple. I have some here now though so in case it's an issue, I'm ready.

Figure I'll wait on cleaning out the caliper until I have the new hose and MC. The brake still isn't stopping me as quickly as I feel it should; (I do often ride fast to stops though, going from 3rd or 4th to 1st with brake rather than slowly and progressively cycling down millions of feet before the stop). That said, I still feel I should be getting far more action from it. And the squeak is still there. Hopefully the new hose, MC, and caliper clean will address that since I already did the bleed.

There's a few more items of interest/concern, but I'll leave it here for now. Updates when I have something useful to tell you guys. I am running though! It's just very attentive riding since I'm keeping my eye on all these things as I ride.
 
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Clutch cable routing has been nice for pull but it keeps slipping out from under tank (I didn't same routing as Jim, with a bit more winds by the tach/spedo cuz of bars). So I'm probably going to have to run it down the frame.
Wherever it's slipping out, find something in that area to loop a zip-tie around and loosely hold it in place with that. If you ran it like mine, it's likely that's the best it will feel. Running it down the frame will increase the pull.
 
Your right fork seal leak may be of concern because that's the side the brake is on. If it leaks enough, the oil could run down and get on the brake disc and/or pads. Maybe it has already and that's why the brake doesn't work so well?
 
Both screws for that little filter cover are the same, 25mm long. One being inset more that the other is also normal, that's just the way they go in. Did you check to see if the screws are tight? If you installed a new gasket, you often have to re-tighten the screws after a few days or heat cycles due to gasket compression. If you didn't use a new gasket then that could be the issue. If you did but failed to totally clean off all the remnants of the old gasket, that could be it too.
 
Good to see more,
My life blew up a bit this month. And then the bike kept coughing up more issues,
Sounds perfectly normal :D
That oil filter cover gasket is due for a new one, I happen to know the yamabond repaired one was a finger crossed.
Yes, those screws do just look funny that way but that is how it is.
These XS's keep all of us busy tinkering and fixin. It's a part of it. Just now watched a Royal Enfield 650 in town traffic. Looked reliable.. and looked just a bit boring as well.
Stay in the fight ! :devil:
 
If the engine is making decent oil pressure, the clutch pushrod will *shoost* outta there, followed with an oil volcano...
I’d heard oil would get everywhere, which is why I hadn’t tried that previously when tracing leaks, but I did not know it was on a volcanic pushrod ejecting level. Noted!
Here’s a pic of the filter cover. I’ll figure out where to look for a new gasket. And yeah, screws were in plenty tight57553895-1939-4EAC-9CDA-7D9A2617C810.jpeg
Inside RH:24E26506-3C11-4A1E-A416-A2D94A0B1286.jpeg
There’s a LITTLE bit of remnant of the old, but I wouldn’t think that little would get in the way of sealing..
I overcorrected on the clutch mechanism today and went too tight. That was interesting. Backed it off and got home, but it’s not loosening over a looong ride, (that’s with perch adjuster screwed all the way in), so I may even back it out at mechanism a touch more again.

Popped up the fork boots (two philips did the job.) Used film negative, both with a hook and one without, to slide between the oh so tiny space between leg and the seal. I couldn’t get it to go down very far. I don’t know how patient I was at that point so perhaps I need to try it again, but all I got was oil. No crud. Some on top of the out ring, Wiped up what I saw. Meant to check fork after riding home—I’ll look in am to see how much accumulated. As for the leak running down to the rotor or caliper, I have yet to see clear evidence of that. Did find a TINY bit of oil residue on lower inner part of fork by caliper, but rotor and caliper look dry. And I’ve been looking at those here and ther since I’d been eyeing that nipple eeking.

and yes @Jim re clutch cable; I meant to suggest that as well but it stayed in my head rather than on the screen.

Ps. @Machine rode a modern 500 enfield last summer for a day. I didn’t feel like I was on a motorcycle; it rode like a sleepy marshmallow. That may be desirable for some but I’d like to feel the machine, at least some torque. And the freeway-forget it. I thought it was going to fall apart on me after a mile at highway speed. My Yamaha SR400 was faster and sturdier (and felt like a motorcycle)
 
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I’d heard oil would get everywhere, which is why I hadn’t tried that previously when tracing leaks, but I did not know it was on a volcanic pushrod ejecting level. Noted!
Here’s a pic of the filter cover. I’ll figure out where to look for a new gasket. And yeah, screws were in plenty tightView attachment 188379
Inside RH:View attachment 188380
There’s a LITTLE bit of remnant of the old, but I wouldn’t think that little would get in the way of sealing..
I overcorrected on the clutch mechanism today and went too tight. That was interesting. Backed it off and got home, but it’s not loosening over a looong ride, (that’s with perch adjuster screwed all the way in), so I may even back it out at mechanism a touch more again.

Popped up the fork boots (two philips did the job.) Used film negative, both with a hook and one without, to slide between the oh so tiny space between leg and the seal. I couldn’t get it to go down very far. I don’t know how patient I was at that point so perhaps I need to try it again, but all I got was oil. No crud. Some on top of the out ring, Wiped up what I saw. Meant to check fork after riding home—I’ll look in am to see how much accumulated. As for the leak running down to the rotor or caliper, I have yet to see clear evidence of that. Did find a TINY bit of oil residue on lower inner part of fork by caliper, but rotor and caliper look dry. And I’ve been looking at those here and ther since I’d been eyeing that nipple eeking.

and yes @Jim re clutch cable; I meant to suggest that as well but it stayed in my head rather than on the screen.

Ps. @Machine rode a modern 500 enfield last summer for a day. I didn’t feel like I was on a motorcycle; it rode like a sleepy marshmallow. That may be desirable for some but I’d like to feel the machine, at least some torque. And the freeway-forget it. I thought it was going to fall apart on me after a mile at highway speed. My Yamaha SR400 was faster and sturdier (and felt like a motorcycle)
If you plan to replace the gasket and reinstall the cover dry (without sealant), it’s important to get rid of the remnants of the old gasket and or sealant. Best way is to carefully use a scraper then a scotch brite pad to clean up the surface.
 
Pausing on the gasket for a moment as it seems like the fork leak is worse. I looked at the bike the morning after I got back. It was an 1.5 hour ride (all service streets, don't quite trust it on highway yet with these issues), so I imagine I would see more, but it looks like that ride got it leaking down to the caliper, at least on the outside. Rotor felt dry, but definitely a sheen on the caliper top left. It was running down back of fork leg, onto hose, accumulating on that little joint and dripping down. Not the best pic I grabbed as I had to wipe it up to ride to work, but I noted the oil spots with arrows.
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Took the hose out of that securing U, and wiped it all off best I could. I'm a bit nervy riding now as I worry I'm getting oil on brakes. Been riding to a job last few days on it still cuz I don't have much of a choice; just wiping it up every time. Looks like I need to get to figuring out how and IF I can replace fork seals (and refill) with my skill level and tools and street spot ASAP. Looked up basics on what I'd need to do, and it seems like it might be out of my depth for working on the street with the tools I have...I can of course acquire more tools, but I worry I might be too deep with this one, taking suspension off an all has me pretty nervous.
I would have bought the MC yesterday--or at least shopped for it--buuuut, when I was inside at a job yesterday, someone decided to back into my bike parked in the parking lot, and then leave. :cussing::(:banghead::shootme: I discovered it 30 minutes later. Here's a link to the security camera footage I got in case you're interested:
At a glance, it seems like handlebars are okay. I need to take a calm look at it tomorrow morning. Clutch lever is a pretzel, shifter was pushed all the way into the generator. Left front indicator cracked, but I'm switching that out anyway and hardly use cuz the button sticks. I bent the shifter out enough to be able to shift, kept to the inside of the clutch lever, and rode home on a gamble. Looks like insurance won't be covering it because they're claiming I didn't have collision this time (which is BS), but I'll spare you the details. Point is now I need to fix this myself and check for the issues the hit and drop may have caused. Looks like it was low speed. Hopefully the fork leak isn't worse now. Main concern is whether it's safe to ride at all right now. I need to get around for work. :(
That's all I got tonight. something soon hopefully.
 

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Oh Marie, what a bummer!

Can sympathise - my XS suffered being reversed into last June. That was really painful for me - had owned the bike for a year, rebuilding it was just about the only thing I did during that year. Engine rebuilt, cycle parts rebuilt, new petrol tank, complete paint job, thousands spent, etc, etc. With the bike finished, rode to Galashiels, parked outside Farmfoods shop and went into buy a few items. Then this woman comes up to me in the shop and says 'I just reversed into your motorbike and knocked it over!'

Dropped the basket, rushed outside and found Miss November lying on the ground, wedged between an ancient and rusty Golf and the wall of the shop with a growing pool of petrol. At the time I couldn't think straight, especially with both Mrs Blunders and the woman who owned the Golf talking at me non-stop.

Couple of pictures of the damage:

PICT2256.JPG PICT2259.JPG

The number plate, both silencers, rear mudguard (fender), number plate, clutch lever were all bent. But at least the woman had fessed up. She gave me her name, address and phone number and agreed to pay for repairs. Didn't want to go through insurance, wanted to know then and there how much it was gonna cost. Uh, no, I need to take it home and assess the damage - if the frame is bent, this will be expensive.

But all things can be fixed. The painter re-did the fender, which she paid for, and she gave me money to replace the silencers. The remaining smaller items which gradually showed up, I just bit the bullet.

Your approach is just right - 'I need to take a calm look at it tomorrow morning.' Hopefully, the damage is limited to what you already noticed. Suggest you check the forks - look carefully to see they are parallel and wheel points directly ahead when the bars are straight. Pump them up and down to check they aren't sticking. Check the frame isn't bent - with the front wheel straight, get down and squint along at the back wheel - the view should look the same with your eye-line each side of the tyres. Repeat, squinting along from the rear. You should be able to spot if the wheels don't line up true.

It was a low speed impact so hopefully everything OK. You would probably have felt odd handling if the frame or forks were bent or mis-aligned as you rode home.

To just drive off like that - must have dented your faith in human nature?
 
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So sorry to hear of this incident Marie. Too bad you couldn’t get a licence plate number from the car that backed into you.

Hopefully a replacement clutch lever and tweaking the gear shifter will get you back on the road without further issue. An aerosol brake cleaner, used carefully with PPE (gloves, mask, eye protection) will greatly assist you in removing residual oil from the leak. Just drape rags or paper towels behind and below the areas being “degreased” to catch the run off.

Repair of the leaking fork may be a bit much for you if you lack the facilities and tools to do the work. Maybe someone here could sell you a rebuilt unit and perhaps you could swap it out?
 
Been riding to a job last few days on it still cuz I don't have much of a choice; just wiping it up every time. Looks like I need to get to figuring out how and IF I can replace fork seals (and refill) with my skill level and tools and street spot ASAP.
:eek:
Crapola.. alright so, street survivor on! Since you cannot immediately fix your fork leak consider a useful bandaid for necessary continued use. Carry a couple shop towels and get practiced up at replacing the folded up wrap under the dust boot. It will keep your brakes dry. (Pics)
You must be experiencing some real adventures gettin around on your XS.
One day at a time!! Good luck :devil:
 

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This fork seal set came with a project XS. They are most likely from mikesXS.
Using the seen numbers, I'll bet a shop nearby has them on the shelf..
 
Take a rag and roll it into a tube. Wrap that around the fork lower just where the dust seal ends and zip tie it in place. The front fender will help stop it sliding down. Might wanna do the same with the hose. Swap it out as required. Temporary.... but it'll save your brakes. There will come a point when the fork runs dry and you'll have to address the seals.

Fwiw, that impact was slow enough that I doubt anything major was bent.
Friggin' drive away assholes. :wtf:
 
You must be experiencing some real adventures gettin around on your XS.
One day at a time!! Good luck :devil:
Yeah, this is the stuff you're never going to forget. This is the stuff of stories to your grandchildren. These will be the stories you can embellish years down the road. Meanwhile, stay the course. You'll get through it.
Peace.
 
Hopefully a replacement clutch lever and tweaking the gear shifter will get you back on the road without further issue. An aerosol brake cleaner, used carefully with PPE (gloves, mask, eye protection) will greatly assist you in removing residual oil from the leak. Just drape rags or paper towels behind and below the areas being “degreased” to catch the run off.
Am I OK spraying that brake cleaner just about everywhere in that area? Can I spray it in this opening on the caliper?
 

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