Sidestand Relay Elimination XS650SK

jetmechmarty

jetmechmarty

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I recently removed my sidestand relay rather than run a jumper. (I'm not sure what I did with it.) So, now I can only start the bike in neutral. I don't care for that. I located the R/W wires going into a relay on the right side of the bike aft of the airbox. I unplugged and jumped R/W to R/W. OK, it starts in gear. The clutch handle switch is ineffective. Is the relay I unplugged just for the clutch handle?

What are my options?
Can I lose the relay on the right side? If I do, can I remove the wiring from the clutch handle to the headlight? Then be smart and don't try to start in gear without pulling the clutch.

What if I wanted to regain use of the clutch switch? Do I need to restore the sidestand relay and just jumper the switch?

What is the first year for the clutch handle switch? 1981?
 
Hi please upload a wiring or model we can find it
I have no knowledge of how it looks in this case
But bypassed once on a Motoguzzi . If I remember correctly it was a series circuit
more or less.
Neutral / Side stand / Clutchandle ?
So it would be possible in some way to select the functions one wants.
Please describe the desired functions Clutch and Neutral Only ??
And side stand switch not in function not affecting leaving the possibility to drive with the stand out
??
 
The sidestand switch was broken and NLA. I removed it years ago and ran with a jumper. I don’t know what possessed me to get rid of the relay.
 
jetmechmarty said:
What if I wanted to regain use of the clutch switch? Do I need to restore the sidestand relay and just jumper the switch?
Click to expand...
Iirc the clutch and sidestand are two different circuits. The clutch switch is for the starter and the sidestand kills power to the TCI box. The relay on the right you jumpered is the starter safety relay ( I think). That needs to be connected. There's a black/yellow coming out of it (safety relay) going to the clutch switch. You need to ground that to bypass the clutch switch.

Clutch Switch.png
 
OK, looking at the SK diagram... I think I'm wrong. The "starter Circuit" and "Safety Relay" are 2 different relays. On your bike, looks like the safety relay is called the "Headlight Relay." Looks like it's the starter safety and headlight relay we're used to on the older bikes. The relay you jumpered the two R/W wires on is most likely the clutch relay... except it's called the "starter Circuit Cutoff Relay." It's all very confusing. Let me see if I can markup a diagram.
 
yea it's 81. On the diagrams the clutch and side-stand circuits look to be completely separate from each other
81....................................................82/3
81_ XS650H_SH.PNG82_XS650SJ_SK JPEG.jpg82_XS650SJ_SK JPEG.jpg
 
Many have had a jolly go-round in the shop cuz the motor would crank but not start. Til they realize the bike was on the centerstand AND the sidestand was down.
Yeah the heritage have an "involved" starter circuit. :rolleyes:
TCI cutoff diagram.jpg
xs650j starter 001.JPG
There is a typo in the factory text; "tachometer control unit" SHOULD read transistor controlled ignition unit or TCI
xs650j starter 003.JPG
xs650j starter 002.JPG
 
Last edited:
Never mind... I see Gary found the diagram I was looking for. I'm saving it this time. :rolleyes:
 
OK, so the expedient thing to do is put the clutch relay back where it belongs. Then, I should reinstall the sidestand relay with the switch jumped. This will return the bike to normal operation and that is what I want.
 
I think you only need to disconnect the coupling at the side-stand switch to neutralize that. ..........Someone else will confirm, if there is a jump to be made at the side-stand relay it will be the B/W from the Igniter to the L/Y to/from the side-stand switch

There is something wrong with the diagram. It has the earth from the clutch switch feeding off the live L/Y wire from the Side-stand relay going to the side-stand switch..........That B wire should be going to the B wire from the Side-stand switch...............
 
650Skull said:
yea it's 81. On the diagrams the clutch and side-stand circuits look to be completely separate from each other
81....................................................82/3
View attachment 189239View attachment 189243View attachment 189243
Click to expand...
What happened was, I removed the sidestand relay. Doing this made it so the motorcycle will start only in neutral, regardless the clutch handle position.
So, if it works like a pre 1981, or as the engineers intended, I don't care. I just want to be able to pull in the clutch and start it, neutral or not.
 
Some slightly better shots from the later model factory book.
iggy circuit sk.jpg DSCN0783.JPG DSCN0782.JPG DSCN0786.JPG DSCN0784.JPG DSCN0785.JPG DSCN0777.JPG DSCN0775.JPG DSCN0779.JPG DSCN0778.JPG DSCN0781.JPG
starter TCI ignition interlock sidestand clutch switch relay safety starter cutout wiring circuit diagram beer side stand neutral kill start gggGary
 
jetmechmarty said:
OK, so the expedient thing to do is put the clutch relay back where it belongs. Then, I should reinstall the sidestand relay with the switch jumped. This will return the bike to normal operation and that is what I want.
Click to expand...

I like stock so above is something that seems OK. We all know what can happen if non stock parts are added like ignition.
A relay is usually not so expensive ( If the one you have is broken ) and it can have Resistance in it that makes Jumping the wires less than perfect in worst case.
Jumping the side stand switch if not using a switch is I believe not as risky as jumping the relay.
Obviously not normal since the side-stand don't affect if jumped and switch taken away.
Other solutions can of course be found but with need for thinking and More wires.
The above seems as a $ 10 + a bit soldering Quick solution.
Getting it stock which in itself is some Sort of Quality.
 
jetmechmarty said:
OK, so the expedient thing to do is put the clutch relay back where it belongs. Then, I should reinstall the sidestand relay with the switch jumped. This will return the bike to normal operation and that is what I want.
Click to expand...
If you want to be able to return the bike to stock Marty, just jumper both switches. It'll work like a pre 81... no sidestand or clutch bs. Remove the jumpers and you're back to the stock 1D10T system.

Sidestand Clutch Bypass.png
 
Here, let's make it even simpler. Remove the Black/Yellow coming out of the Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay and install a ground jumper there. Tie off the B/Y and anytime you want, remove the ground wire and reinstall B/Y.


EDIT: Just to clarify... if you want to remove all the unwanted bits from the system, use the method 5twins explains below. This single jumper method I drew up was in response to Marty's question about restoring part of the functionality. Remove the jumper, plug the B/Y back in and you're back to original. If any of your original bits are bad or missing... this prolly won't work for you.


Starting circuit ground out.png
 
Last edited:
OK, see post #55 for info on doing away with those relays .....

http://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-3

As you discovered with the sidestand relay, you can't just remove the switch, you have to remove the relay too. But no jumper wire is needed, just remove the relay. The sidestand relay, at rest (closed), connects the TCI box to ground and kills the spark. To "open" the relay and break that ground connection, you need one of two "triggers" enabled, either the neutral light (bike in neutral) or the sidestand switch (stand up). Remove the relay and you eliminate any possibility of the TCI wire in the relay plug being connected to the black ground wire in the relay plug, hence no jumper wire needed.

For the clutch safety switch, you do need a jumper wire. Power for the starter solenoid on the R/W wire coming out of the starter/headlight safety relay passes through the clutch safety relay. Again, like the sidestand relay, this also has two "triggers" to make that happen - the neutral light and the clutch switch up on the clutch lever. Remove the relay and you break that R/W wire connection, so a jumper must be added.
 

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