Yes Sir
Please come back .. when you find it and if possible with a video.
I cannot remember we have Failed yet. Cooperation and we will get there.
He can have the Strobe light and other tools.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
1978 Xs650SE Barn Find
- Thread starter ElCamMan515
- Start date
Yes Sir
Please come back .. when you find it and if possible with a video.
I cannot remember we have Failed yet. Cooperation and we will get there.
He can have the Strobe light and other tools.
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
I'll absolutely let everyone know. I am not very familiar with the bike and I appreciate that Leo is willing to come look at it and advise me further.
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
Good morning!
Leo came over and looked at the bike today and gave me some advice. We noticed the timing was off so he helped me get timing pretty close on both cylinders. Bike starts up way easier and runs better. I still have a slight backfiring but not as bad as before. While adjusting timing we noticed bike was advancing way to much and found out the advance was sticking. I will clean the rod hopefully by the weekend. I also ordered new carb boots and will replace those when they arrive.
I really appreciate Leo coming over and helping me and giving me advice on what to do next.
Tim
Leo came over and looked at the bike today and gave me some advice. We noticed the timing was off so he helped me get timing pretty close on both cylinders. Bike starts up way easier and runs better. I still have a slight backfiring but not as bad as before. While adjusting timing we noticed bike was advancing way to much and found out the advance was sticking. I will clean the rod hopefully by the weekend. I also ordered new carb boots and will replace those when they arrive.
I really appreciate Leo coming over and helping me and giving me advice on what to do next.
Tim
Yes, lubing the advance rod is an often neglected maintenance item on these, probably because the manuals don't mention it needs to be done. That should cure your slightly hanging and slow to return to idle RPMs.
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
Here is a short video of how it is running now:
Regarding your #3 post at the beginning of the thread about the mufflers.....ever figure out what they're from?
Attaching aftermarket mufflers on to cut down stock headers has to be done with knowing the stock headers have an inner pipe, and that the muffler has to be attached to that inner pipe solely and not to the outer chrome 'cover'. The outer cover has an evaporation hole about a foot down from where it attaches to the engine and it's located on the backside........look and you'll see it. Could this be something with your popping too? Mebbe........depends on how those muffs were installed.
Attaching aftermarket mufflers on to cut down stock headers has to be done with knowing the stock headers have an inner pipe, and that the muffler has to be attached to that inner pipe solely and not to the outer chrome 'cover'. The outer cover has an evaporation hole about a foot down from where it attaches to the engine and it's located on the backside........look and you'll see it. Could this be something with your popping too? Mebbe........depends on how those muffs were installed.
While we were looking at the advancer there seemed to be some clearance between the slots in the rotor and the tabs on the flyweights. this clearance may be part of the excessive advance. I told Tim how that removing the weights and peening the tabs to remove most of this clearance might help on the advnce.
I couldn't recall who talked about this. so if the persom who did this can chime in with more info on this please respnd.
other than this issue the bike looks in pretty good shape. there are a few easy to fix cosmetic things.
We talked about some mods that can be easily done, steering head tapered rooler bearings and swing arm bushings were two. briefly talked about the Minton mods.
i didn't recognize the exhaust.
It is a bit on the loud side when under hard acceleration.
It won't take much to get it in tip top shape to be a good daily rider.
Nice meeting a younger fellow interested in these older bikes. he is intusiastic about getting it going. it has the stock 4 fuse block. we talked about swapping these for inline blade type fuses. He has plans to change them out.
Leo
I couldn't recall who talked about this. so if the persom who did this can chime in with more info on this please respnd.
other than this issue the bike looks in pretty good shape. there are a few easy to fix cosmetic things.
We talked about some mods that can be easily done, steering head tapered rooler bearings and swing arm bushings were two. briefly talked about the Minton mods.
i didn't recognize the exhaust.
It is a bit on the loud side when under hard acceleration.
It won't take much to get it in tip top shape to be a good daily rider.
Nice meeting a younger fellow interested in these older bikes. he is intusiastic about getting it going. it has the stock 4 fuse block. we talked about swapping these for inline blade type fuses. He has plans to change them out.
Leo
Last edited:
@grizld1 talked about it quiet a few times as I recall. Here's one thread where he and RG discussed it.
Thinking out loud
I may be wrong but I got the impression the misfiring is on right side only.
And the times I have had to much advancing weights sticking .. the bike died after letting go of the throttle.
It remained to much advanced.
The ignition timing is no longer under question if it is set via Strobe light
And point gap is set.
But the lubricating / servicing of advance unit is on track as well as carb boots
No mention of the spray test on the intake..
I would most likely test that for fact finding.
Since it is not difficult to do
Please come back after the mentioned things
I may be wrong but I got the impression the misfiring is on right side only.
And the times I have had to much advancing weights sticking .. the bike died after letting go of the throttle.
It remained to much advanced.
The ignition timing is no longer under question if it is set via Strobe light
And point gap is set.
But the lubricating / servicing of advance unit is on track as well as carb boots
No mention of the spray test on the intake..
I would most likely test that for fact finding.
Since it is not difficult to do
Please come back after the mentioned things
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
Jan- the backfire/misfire is on the right side. The right side was way out of time. Leo and I got timing close, but it can use some more adjustment. If it wasn't 40 degrees outside I would of spent more time to perfect it. I will attempt to pull the advance rod this evening if not this weekend. I will spray the boots this afternoon.
I'll report back with findings.
Tim
I'll report back with findings.
Tim
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
Here are the results of spraying carb boots.
Idle slightly increased from 1200 to 1500ish. Also when I push choke 'on' it stumbles a bit then rpms increase.
Any other suggestions other than first cleaning the advance rod and smooshing the weights?
Thanks
Tim
Idle slightly increased from 1200 to 1500ish. Also when I push choke 'on' it stumbles a bit then rpms increase.
Any other suggestions other than first cleaning the advance rod and smooshing the weights?
Thanks
Tim
Those are going to make a difference.
I am no Carburetor expert but that would be a intake leak
I would try to localize it via more concentrated spraying.
Since it is misfiring on the right side there about
Is everything tightened hose clamps and so
The cleaning and Lubricating of the advance mechanism is a normal service.
I am a bit different than other here I use parts past best before
I would try to tighten up first .
As I mentioned I have had boots looking awful but not leaking
I would focus the spraying tightening at on right side
31 --9 --8 --7 and inspect rubber seal on 11 so it is about at the right place
I would try to localize it via more concentrated spraying.
Since it is misfiring on the right side there about
Is everything tightened hose clamps and so
The cleaning and Lubricating of the advance mechanism is a normal service.
I am a bit different than other here I use parts past best before
I would try to tighten up first .
As I mentioned I have had boots looking awful but not leaking
I would focus the spraying tightening at on right side
31 --9 --8 --7 and inspect rubber seal on 11 so it is about at the right place
That sounds like worn choke shafts, I'm thinking it sucked ether in around the choke shafts and thats what caused the idle to climb since you're also getting climbing idle when you apply pressure to the choke lever. Try spraying the ether directly at the choke shafts and see what happens.
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
Good evening everyone,
I got the advance rod out with zero issues. But upon closer inspection of all the parts it looks like 1 of the springs in the advance assembly is very week. See below picture (the lower spring) Anyone have a good set of springs or should I buy new?
Thanks,
Tim
I got the advance rod out with zero issues. But upon closer inspection of all the parts it looks like 1 of the springs in the advance assembly is very week. See below picture (the lower spring) Anyone have a good set of springs or should I buy new?
Thanks,
Tim
Attachments
Last edited:
You can't get new originals anymore, unless you happen upon a set on eBay (do look), and the aftermarket ones can be bad, too weak right out of the box. I'd say clean and lube everything up, and maybe it will work just fine. My advance and springs are rather loose and sloppy but still work fine. But I keep the advance rod and all the moving parts on the advance unit lubed up.
Once you pull the advance rod out, if you look in the ends of the cam, you'll see the bushing in there has grooves in it. These are to hold a supply of grease to keep the rod lubed .....
You will probably find little, if any, grease present. Clean them out and pack them full of fresh grease. The factory shop manual recommends a grease with moly in it .....
This should keep the rod lubed for many years to come, at least 5 or so I'd say. Just remember, this needs to be re-done from time to time. Many are running dry and sticking now because they were never serviced since they left the factory. We're talking like 40 years here, lol. Also lightly grease the pivot posts for the advance weights. After I disassemble one of these and reassemble it greased up, to lube it in the future, I just dribble a couple drops of foaming chain lube on the posts and springs. I do this when the motor is hot so it penetrates better.
Once you pull the advance rod out, if you look in the ends of the cam, you'll see the bushing in there has grooves in it. These are to hold a supply of grease to keep the rod lubed .....
You will probably find little, if any, grease present. Clean them out and pack them full of fresh grease. The factory shop manual recommends a grease with moly in it .....
This should keep the rod lubed for many years to come, at least 5 or so I'd say. Just remember, this needs to be re-done from time to time. Many are running dry and sticking now because they were never serviced since they left the factory. We're talking like 40 years here, lol. Also lightly grease the pivot posts for the advance weights. After I disassemble one of these and reassemble it greased up, to lube it in the future, I just dribble a couple drops of foaming chain lube on the posts and springs. I do this when the motor is hot so it penetrates better.
ElCamMan515
XS650 Addict
5twins - Thanks I need to get some grease so I can grease everything up and put it back together.
Tim
Tim
Try to get some moly grease. HF has it .....
https://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lube-moly-graph-lithium-grease-40712.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lube-moly-graph-lithium-grease-40712.html
Happen to have been at inspecting and considering lubrication of the Advance mechanism just last evening.
I swabbed a small amount of grease with a wire into the weight slots. I also dripped a few drops of light machine oil onto the circlip holes while manually moving the weights carefully.
It seemed to help immediately.
I would not recommend removing those circlips.
Last edited:
