Miss November XS2 tribute

Raymond · Sep 4, 2021

Back to the lock saga. Unfortunately, cannot see what is happening inside the lock. Decided to go with the hypothesis that the catch moves sideewise when the seat is pulled upwards. Based on the facts that the catch is flexibly mounted and there's plenty of room for it to move either side of the latch.

Don't know why there is a removeable thin steel insert in the relevant area, but this offers the possibility to distort the insert. As shown:

Squeezed the insert narrower enough for the tabs, now bent lower, to hold against the inside of the lock instead of locating in the cutouts. But still enough room for the latch to move freely. Yes, of course the bloody spring made a bid for freedom as I checked the latch would move. Ahem, found the wayward spring mainly by luck . . . these things would try the patience of a saint, which I ain't.

Now, if the hypothesis is correct, the new shape of the insert might prevent the catch from moving sideways enough to let go?

Only one way to find out so put it back together again:

and I guess you'll just have to take my word for it that the lock holds better now. Tried pulling the seat up, in the manner of a man who doesn't fully trust it - no point in yanking it up like an excited metal detectorist opening a treasure chest - and the seat stays closed.

I mean I was definitely pulling with more force than would have opened it before the procedure . . .

so, I'm counting that as a win.

5twins · Sep 4, 2021

I think the rubber mounted post on the seat is normal, mine's like that too and holds closed fine. I think I do see the issue though, and it's with the latch part in the lock. Take a look at mine. All I've ever seen looked like this .....

The top and bottom edges run parallel to each other and the notch for the peg on the round disc is squared off. Now look at yours. It looks like someone bent it or modified it. The pointed end is bent up .....

Now look at the notch in the seat post, it's squared off at the bottom .....

My latch, since it's squared off at the bottom, will lock into that. Yours, being that the bottom edge is angled up, isn't going to lock into the seat post notch.

Raymond · Sep 4, 2021

Your findings are very interesting, Mr 5T.

I haven't noticed that the latch shows any sign of having been bent. Perhaps somebody has replaced the latch with one of a different shape? Your latch looks like it will give a more positive engagement with the catch.

For now, will leave the question sticking to the wall. If the lock will continue to work and hold the seat shut, that'll do.

5twins · Sep 4, 2021

Yes, maybe someone replaced yours with a different part. Like I said, I never saw one shaped like yours, they all have looked like mine.

Raymond · Sep 7, 2021

After a disappointing August, we are having a good spell of weather in early September.

Out enjoying the late summer sunshine in Berwickshire today, stopped to snap this old cottage:

Missy and I were exploring some lanes I've never ridden before, yet we were less than twenty miles from home.

Raymond · Sep 10, 2021

Darn thing has developed a habit of blowing headlamp bulbs. Blew the first one just before I serviced the bike a few weeks back, so I replaced it. Then it blew that one after a while. Never mind, replaced that one. Which blew yesterday.

It's the dipped beam that has blown each time, and Mrs has suggested why don't you just run with main beam on after it blows? Well, I don't like to do that in case it dazzles other road users, but I suppose it's better to annoy people in tin boxes than slip below their attention yesterday I switched to main. Which blew a few miles later . . .

Is this normal? Perhaps Pete will blame the vibrations? Just bad luck? Or is there an underlying electrical problemo?

jetmechmarty · Sep 10, 2021

Raymond said:
Is this normal? Perhaps Pete will blame the vibrations? Just bad luck? Or is there an underlying electrical problemo?

My XS650SK has its original Koito sealed beam. It’s still illuminating after 60,000 miles and 38 years.
My XS1100 has a halogen lamp. I’ve replaced two of them since 2003 and 100,000 miles.
Raymond, I would have a look at the voltage as a start. I expect you’re onto that.

Jim · Sep 10, 2021

Also look for an intermittent open. Current draw is high in a bulb when first turned on then drops as the filament heats up. One that's always shutting off and coming back on will go through a cycle of: cool down, resistance drops - turn on, hi current draw until it heats up then - open, cool down and repeat. If that cycle were to repeat enough, premature burnout would result.

Of course, check for high voltage as Marty says first. That's the most like suspect.

Raymond · Sep 14, 2021

Thank you for the suggestions.

Been thinking - not a strength - abut why three bulbs have failed in as many months. Might be vibration? Last time I was in there, noticed the ring that holds the bulb holder is very loose. Got to hold it or it would drop inside the headlamp. Bound to get shoogled and rattled around a lot. The product of my thinking is that the ring should maybe fix onto the headlamp glass? Might mix up some poxy resin and try to fix the ring in place.

Perhaps I prefer vibration to be the problem because I don't fully understand how high voltage could be an issue. Won't the voltage reaching the headlamp be at or a little below the battery voltage? That's usually about 13½ with the bike off rising to about 14.8 running at a handful of rpms. Surely the bulb is meant to run at that voltage?

These are the bulbs I've been buying: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372303233144?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

sold as car fog light bulbs. Do cars have a better-controlled 12V?

Will need to address the problem soon as I don't really like running around without the light on. Makes me feel sort of invisible.

jetmechmarty · Sep 14, 2021

Raymond said:
Last time I was in there, noticed the ring that holds the bulb holder is very loose.

No, it should not be loose. Either your light doesn't fit properly or something is broken or missing, or both.

Jim · Sep 14, 2021

Raymond said:
rising to about 14.8 running at a handful of rpms. Surely the bulb is meant to run at that voltage?

That's on the high end of normal. Most cars (which is the application this bulb was designed for) regulate to about 14.2V. You're a good half volt past that.
Although I don't think that's causing your failures, the combo of high volts and vibes might be...

gggGary · Sep 14, 2021

H4 bulbs? Auto bulbs are both higher watts and less vibration resistant than the correct motorcycle units. If it won't make you flunk a MOT LED is the only way to fly, 'specially as fall fast approaches. Better quality H4 LEDs are marvelous and pretty much shake proof.

Raymond · Sep 14, 2021

gggGary said:
H4 bulbs? Auto bulbs are both higher watts and less vibration resistant than the correct motorcycle units. If it won't make you flunk a MOT LED is the only way to fly, 'specially as fall fast approaches. Better quality H4 LEDs are marvelous and pretty much shake proof.

Thank you Gary, I'll have a look-see.

Grimly · Sep 15, 2021

Raymond said:
Have seen a rat bike with a set of mole grips tightened onto the shift shaft? Just kidding . . .

Hah. Somewhere outside of Hastings is a GS850 gear lever. I got home with a small set of mole grips on the splined shaft.

Adamc · Sep 15, 2021

Been there done that :laughing:

Raymond · Sep 16, 2021

gggGary said:
H4 bulbs? Auto bulbs are both higher watts and less vibration resistant than the correct motorcycle units. If it won't make you flunk a MOT LED is the only way to fly, 'specially as fall fast approaches. Better quality H4 LEDs are marvelous and pretty much shake proof.

Ordered this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B085Q8QT1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There were cheaper offers on Ebay but the reviews on this gave more confidence that it would fit a m/c headlamp shell. And if it lasts, will be money well spent.

When it arrives, will have a look at the headlamp and see if I can epoxy the ring onto the glass.

gggGary · Sep 16, 2021

I've used this H4 LED
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D9BMFFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

jetmechmarty · Sep 16, 2021

This one interests me.
https://shop.revivalcycles.com/revi...fw2AhjzeV2tMKLXC60lLvinAHja_4ztYaAiV_EALw_wcB

Raymond · Sep 17, 2021

Gary, I'm not sure of the differences & advantages of that bulb vs the one on order but it says not available anyway.

JMM, very nice, that looks like a good solution for replacing the whole headlamp. The question would be how well it fits in an XS headlamp shell. So if you ever go ahead and buy one, we need to know . . .

gggGary · Sep 17, 2021

LEDs continue to evolve rapidly.
In testing about 6 LED bulbs I did a couple years ago any bulbs that had a "standard" metal base were not bright "enough" compared to bulbs with some sort of external cooling capacity. That might have changed but there is a finite lower limit to how much waste heat needs to be shed per lunem of usable light using LED technology.
Some of that here. https://www.xs650.com/threads/led-headlight-conversions-ideas-good-and-bad.50174/#post-517974
It would be great if you post some before after pics there. I'll try to get out and do the same with some more recent bulbs. Sorry about the link, They are available in the USA. My goto favorite Broview S5 bulb as seen in the thread above is NLA. The ones you bought look to have the correct housing shield around the LED chip to direct light LIKE an incandescent or quartz H4 bulb which is SO important.
I need to do some headlight bulb work on the new to me R1200GS it has some LED aux lights but I suspect they are just ghetto blasters with poor or no shielding for oncoming drivers. The prob with that bike is it's canbus so anything other than the stock bulbs throw a dash warning. :cussing:

I HATE adding resisters to "cover up" for a more efficient bulb, it's just SO wrong.
I think I saw some "British" MOTs reg banning LEDs in older vehicles designed for incandescent bulbs. There is some rationale there. But the market is correcting for some of the early problems of dazzling oncoming drivers.

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