Try wine as well. I found a couple glasses gets the old girls loosened right up
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Swingarm Bolt
- Thread starter BowlingSS
- Start date
Yes I did. The swingarm moves freely.
Bigfeet
to many projects
When I did mine with a sawzall I cut it at the plastic spacers between the swing arm and the frame. I had another swing arm to use but the swing arm that I removed was still useable. But I have a lot of time with a sawzall in my hands over 30 plus years in construction so it may be different for someone else!
That was used the first day. The 5lb hammer got the last one I worked on out. This one no. Still working on it. When I spray liquid into the holes, rust Is coming out. Maybe it is starting to work.
AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
Try to back up the frame on a solid plate/cement. Whack it both ways if it moves, but let the penetrant work.
As said takes time.
Now for better results and dangers..................
Muriatic acid once twice three times a charm but, let it work, takes less time/makes more mess.
cliff
As said takes time.
Now for better results and dangers..................
Muriatic acid once twice three times a charm but, let it work, takes less time/makes more mess.
cliff
What about filling a grease press with diesel or thin hydraulic oil, and try to get the oil in via the original grease zerk in the bolt?
That is where I am spraying the WD I am using. Still soaking.
I'm partial to PB Blaster myself.
Don't suppose the frame will fit in your press?
Don't suppose the frame will fit in your press?
Early swing arms are shorter, narrower.
You have the frame bare, good. Get solid blocking from the other side of the frame RIGHT AT the swing arm pivot solidly to the concrete floor. Now the big sledge hammer, an assistant holding a large drift may allow a better swing but WEIGHT is more powerful than speed. Once it moves (even a little) flip the frame over relube, drive it back in. Repeat every time moving slows or stops, drive back the other way. I've done some seriously bad pivots NEVER had to cut an arm.
I hammer
on this point about stuck bolts also, if loosening a bolt and it gets harder to turn (or won't turn) STOP, lube, tighten for bit, repeat; you will keep going a little further each time til it comes out. Stuck parts start to gall, literally tearing away chunks of metal, wadding up and stopping your progress. Going back the other way smooths those lumps down, easing your path. HTH.
You have the frame bare, good. Get solid blocking from the other side of the frame RIGHT AT the swing arm pivot solidly to the concrete floor. Now the big sledge hammer, an assistant holding a large drift may allow a better swing but WEIGHT is more powerful than speed. Once it moves (even a little) flip the frame over relube, drive it back in. Repeat every time moving slows or stops, drive back the other way. I've done some seriously bad pivots NEVER had to cut an arm.
I hammer
on this point about stuck bolts also, if loosening a bolt and it gets harder to turn (or won't turn) STOP, lube, tighten for bit, repeat; you will keep going a little further each time til it comes out. Stuck parts start to gall, literally tearing away chunks of metal, wadding up and stopping your progress. Going back the other way smooths those lumps down, easing your path. HTH.
Yes, that's the PB Blaster you want (they also make a spray lube). It's worked well for me on many stuck parts. I combine it with heat and sometimes overnight soaks if the part won't budge on the first attempt.
I can't really tell if one penetrating oil is better than another, but I have PB Blaster on the shelf as well. WD40 is great stuff, but I think penetrating oil is better.
I find that to be a good idea to test --very good I will try that next time
A grease gun gives a high pressure ..it was used as a adjustment tool for excavator tracks
Maybe even try to warm the fluid a bit
It is simple and have good effects can be a solution .
If you like the rust solving chemical can be tested .I dont believe the gun is expensive
But maybe the zerk is gone now
Yup. My can looks slightly different, but just 'cause it's prolly 5-10yrs old. Been using this stuff since I was a kid. I've tried others, but always come back to the PB Blaster.
I'm thinking the pivot bolt is probably rusted into the frame on both sides, so putting penetrating oil in the grease fitting isn't going to get there. It will be forced into the bushings, which isn't a bad thing either. It might be stuck there too.
If just being stuck in the frame, I'd just heat the ends of the bolt cherry red, then let everything cool down completely. Then use the BFH.
I'd seal up one side with plasticine or something and fill the entire pivot bore with acid for a few days. Even pickling or cleaning vinegar would do the trick IMO. There may also be a wear ridge on the components, preventing them from sliding against each other.
Yes Sir Another fine idea ... heating with oil there frame laying down will make it go in and doing it a couple of times.
Can be a coping strategy.
Red most definitely will start move things . But why not start carefully stepping up if needed
Or If not the possibility get it sherry red
