2021 and the XS650

If you plan on sticking with the points then you should find yourself a dwell meter. It's for setting the points gap not the timing, but it's the best, easiest, and most accurate way to do so. It also makes matching the gaps between the two sets easier. But it's biggest benefit is in setting used points. It's the only way to accurately set them. Used points develop pits and the spark jumps between those pits. You can't accurately measure between the pits with a feeler gauge. The gap you're measuring and setting will end up smaller than the gap between the pits where the spark jumps. For this reason, if setting used points with a feeler gauge, it's best you set them to the smaller side of the gap range (around .012").
 
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If you plan on sticking with the points then you should find yourself a dwell meter. It's for setting the points gap not the timing, but it's the best, easiest, and most accurate way to do so. It also makes matching the gaps between the two sets easier. But it's biggest benefit is in setting used points. It's the only way to accurately set them. Used points develop pits and the spark jumps between those pits. You can't accurately measure between the pits with a feeler gauge. The gap you're measuring and setting will end up larger than the gap between the pits where the spark jumps. For this reason, if setting used points with a feeler gauge, it's best you set them to the smaller side of the gap range (around .012").
Thanks 5twins. For setting the points I did do them a hair smaller than spec, and they are new points. I'll check out finding a dwell meter somewhere. For timing, I rigged a 12v led with a positive going to the point and the negative to ground. Then set timing accordingly to the light firing when the point separates.
 
any chance the intake rubbers have a split or cracked, also being hard they don't squeeze tight so easily just a thought concerning running lean :)
Intake rubbers are brand new along with gaskets. Do you think vacuum line should be something specific? I thought about this today - I have a standard clear gas line for a vacuum hose. Might need something heavier - but just grasping at straws.
 
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For setting the points I did do them a hair smaller than spec, and they are new points.
Points should be set at their widest gap so when the rubbing block wears they close up to the smallest gap. AS 5 Twins say a dwell meter is the best way to set them.
 
Points should be set at their widest gap so when the rubbing block wears they close up to the smallest gap. AS 5 Twins say a dwell meter is the best way to set them.
I mean I set them at their widest point - right? For instance, at their widest point they should be set to spec. I mean I set them at the lowest range of the spec (.012" off hand - but I believe the range is up to .016", if I remember correctly.) I'll locate a dwell to dial it in better.

I do have a question regarding timing - so I set the right points first lining up over B1 & B2 (over the F mark) - I used a light to do so. When I go to set the left points, I still set over the same marks, right?
 
I mean I set them at their widest point - right? For instance, at their widest point they should be set to spec. I mean I set them at the lowest range of the spec (.012" off hand - but I believe the range is up to .016", if I remember correctly.) I'll locate a dwell to dial it in better.

I do have a question regarding timing - so I set the right points first lining up over B1 & B2 (over the F mark) - I used a light to do so. When I go to set the left points, I still set over the same marks, right?
Yes. all marks apply to both cylinders in a 360° twin.
 
Yes. all marks apply to both cylinders in a 360° twin.
Thanks Jim, just making sure I'm not overlooking the obvious. Followed the manual.

I tried the lead swaps with the coils and same one got hot. Almost too hot to the touch.

This evening, bike only ran shortly then died. Swapped in fresh plugs. Tested the spark and they were getting a spark. Also smelled of fuel. Sunday was able to idle and sync carbs OK. Not sure what I'm missing here.
 
Your best bet's gonna be to concentrate on getting the ignition sorted first, then see what other problems you have. If that coil is indeed getting too hot, and it sounds like it is, ohm out the primary. It should read about 3.9Ω. Any lower than that would have it running hot.
 
Normally, as mentioned, you set the points at their widest in spec gap. They'll go longer before needing another adjustment this way. Usually, as points wear, their gap closes up. This is because the usual wear point is the rubbing block. The points faces don't usually wear away so much as to affect the gap size, at least not in the 10 to 15K miles a points set is in service. By that time, even if the points still look good, it's prudent to change them because the strap steel "spring" that snaps them closed tight gets weak.
 
Normally, as mentioned, you set the points at their widest in spec gap. They'll go longer before needing another adjustment this way. Usually, as points wear, their gap closes up. This is because the usual wear point is the rubbing block. The points faces don't usually wear away so much as to affect the gap size, at least not in the 10 to 15K miles a points set is in service. By that time, even if the points still look good, it's prudent to change them because the strap steel "spring" that snaps them closed tight gets weak.
Thanks 5twins. I did replace points. I think another issue I may have caused is not setting the timing appropriately on the compression stroke. I was just reading a timing guide from xs650central and it referenced setting when right cylinder is on compression - I believe I just rotated to match the markers, then used a 12v light to set timing between B1-B2 not paying attention if the stroke was compression. If im understanding this correctly - I could be off by one rotation, I think.

Link to xs650 central guide: https://www.650central.com/fsetting_pointstype_ignition_on.htm
 
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The only reason the compression stroke is referred to is because that's when the points fire (open). They don't fire on the exhaust stroke. So, as long as your test light came on you did it correctly. Static timing like you've done may not be exact. It's best to check it running with a timing light afterward. And obviously, you need to check both sides, both cylinders, and try to get the timing matched between them.

You're basically setting two separate little ignitions here, one for each cylinder. You want to try to match the settings on each to one another, both the points gaps and the timing. All this is what can make setting this dual point system a rather trying experience, lol.
 
just finished watching the videos Jim posted, very easy to follow and takes the I don't know how to do this correctly out of setting up your bike, thanks Jim.
Yeah... I think he could have done a little better on explaining the "why" on certain parts of it, but overall a pretty good how-to.
 
Servicing the advance rod and noticed my springs don't retract (or at least I think they should?) - should they be keeping tension on the brass colored bits of the advance unit?
In this picture, the brass bits are open with no tension to pull them back.
PXL_20210930_213538420.jpg
 
Servicing the advance rod and noticed my springs don't retract (or at least I think they should?) - should they be keeping tension on the brass colored bits of the advance unit?
In this picture, the brass bits are open with no tension to pull them back.
View attachment 199058
You're at full advance in that pic. Is it stuck there?
 
What I'm getting at... is there too much friction in the advance rod or are the springs too weak to pull it back? The advance rod should rotate freely by hand with as little resistance as possible.... about like twisting a loose, sloppy bolt.
 
What I'm getting at... is there too much friction in the advance rod or are the springs too weak to pull it back? The advance rod should rotate freely by hand with as little resistance as possible.... about like twisting a loose, sloppy bolt.
Ah gotcha - I see what you mean. I'm lubricating the advance rod right now. Bone dry and did not rotate very freely. Will check springs once assembled.

Also cleaning posts as well.
 
What I'm getting at... is there too much friction in the advance rod or are the springs too weak to pull it back? The advance rod should rotate freely by hand with as little resistance as possible.... about like twisting a loose, sloppy bolt.
Still staying in the full advance position and not retracting. Should the springs be have enough tension to keep the advancer 'closed'?
 
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