What should I be doing?

Raymond · Oct 5, 2021

1palace said:
. . . gear lever is stuck on 1 and the rear wheel and kickstand are also stuck . . .

Do you mean the bike is stuck in gear? That would account for the rear wheel being stuck. The engine needs to be running for the gear change to be easy but you can change gear by turning the rear wheel at the same time as you pull the clutch and move the gear lever. Either put the bike on the centre stand and turn the wheel as you pull the clutch/move the lever - easier if you have an assistant - or push the bike a little way to and fro.

Kickstand stuck sounds like it needs lubing - penetrating oil like 3-in1 or a good squirt of WD40 then might take some time for the oil to work its way in.

Glad to hear you will clean the carbs before trying to start the motor. Search for and read some of the threads on the forum about starting a bike for the first time after a long lay-up, there's lots of good advice, though sometimes errs on the side of council of perfection. But try not to be too impatient - slow and steady wins the race or similar cliché.

gggGary · Oct 5, 2021

sit on bike roll it back and forth a bit while lifting shift lever find neutral. then try kick start again. If it's still "locked", put bike back in first and roll forward til it spins the motor a little, that should free the kicker. The XS650 can ONLY be kick started in neutral with the clutch released..

kshansen · Oct 5, 2021

650Skull said:
That's your cable to the electric starter motor

Yes, the end that is NOT hooked to anything would be connected to the starter relay, which like a few other things is missing off your bike! See the wire with the orange strip on it in picture below.

And yes I notice that the the upper relay has a broken mount!

1palace · Oct 5, 2021

Got her to move while holding clutch, but when I let go she gets real stubborn like the brake is stopping the rear wheel. Gear lever still doesn’t move much I have been waddling it to and from while attempting to get some movement out of the lever..I can hear it click between what I assume to be 1 and N, but the lever itself won’t move. Is it supposed to or just click?

Took a look at my carbs today, but I don’t have the tools right now to remove them, so I’m just studying the bike while I wait for them to come in. Will also try to follow some of the wiring and look into an electric starter. Found something loose near the rear wheel. It comes together easily where l think it’s supposed to be, but it doesn’t really hold on while it’s there.

- Palace

nj1639 · Oct 5, 2021

Rear brake light switch.

nj1639 · Oct 5, 2021

I'd suggest finding another Maryland member here on the forum and make a play date......

nj1639 · Oct 5, 2021

The foot shift lever shifts up from first to fifth and down from fifth to first but returns to the same position at rest between gears, so looking at the shift lever itself will tell you nothing about what gear it's in.

If you can get the bike up onto the center stand aka the service stand, you can work the rear tire while fiddling the shift lever up or down to find neutral. Neutral is a hair up from first - a hair down from second. Suggest clicking the shifter down until it clicks no more and then a light lift up should put you in neutral.

kshansen · Oct 5, 2021

nj1639 said:
I'd suggest finding another Maryland member here on the forum and make a play date......

Or just anyone who has rode a motorcycle for more than a couple weeks. Not to insult the poster but many of these questions are very basic that might be better answered by someone in person.

Another idea might be to see if there is a beginner rider's course near by that they could take to learn some basic thigs about motorcycles. Even if this will only be used off-road knowing some basics will save a bunch of injuries! When this bike is able to run I would be worried about this person trying to ride it,

I mean if bike will roll with the clutch pulled in but not with it out then I would say 90% chance someone who knows how to shift a motorcycle could solve that one in seconds.

1palace · Oct 6, 2021

Man these bikes are magic. Figured out how to “unstuck” the gear. I was doing it wrong all along. Looking like a jackass in the parking lot. Hoping I didn’t damage her. I definitely know how to switch gears now though. And for sure it’s time to take a course, thought this would be fun and easy, but it’s really just fun.

Will do my homework the next few days and update when I start working on the carbs or find anything weird on her.

P.S. Thanks so much for teaching me how to change gears. Helped me out instantly.

- Palace

5twins · Oct 6, 2021

As I mentioned earlier, you may not need to pull the carbs off and completely clean them. Drop the float bowls first, carbs still in place, using a stubby screwdriver. What you find inside will tell you how much farther you need to go. If the bike was set up properly for storage (had the carbs drained) then they may be clean inside and you won't have to go any further. It's much easier to take the two float bowls off than to pull the carb set out completely.

sleddog83 · Oct 6, 2021

When you get a chance, could you send a few more pictures? I would like to see a better picture of the fuse box area, assuming there is still a fusebox. Also, pull off the cover where the points are located and send and send a picture of that area. Check the serial number of the engine. It should match the frame number. Someone suggested this bike may have earlier engine which might explain a different ignition.
There could be a bit of a wiring mess where they wired in a different ignition system to a TCI -based harness. Kind of curious which coil arrangement you have, so when you have the tank off, take picture of the coil area. Also, send another picture of the right side.
Don't worry about the wiring issues too much. As long as the insulation has not melted off, most harnesses can be salvaged. When checking the harness, pull all the fuses, and work through it methodically.

1palace · Oct 7, 2021

sleddog83 said:
When you get a chance, could you send a few more pictures? I would like to see a better picture of the fuse box area, assuming there is still a fusebox. Also, pull off the cover where the points are located and send and send a picture of that area. Check the serial number of the engine. It should match the frame number. Someone suggested this bike may have earlier engine which might explain a different ignition.
There could be a bit of a wiring mess where they wired in a different ignition system to a TCI -based harness. Kind of curious which coil arrangement you have, so when you have the tank off, take picture of the coil area. Also, send another picture of the right side.
Don't worry about the wiring issues too much. As long as the insulation has not melted off, most harnesses can be salvaged. When checking the harness, pull all the fuses, and work through it methodically.

I’m not sure where the fuse box is located.. if you can point me in the right direction I can definitely send those pictures in. Took off this part on the left hand side, right side has a screw that’s stripped. Want to know what’s inside but haven’t thought of a way to get in yet. Will need a tool that can get that bad screw off and then replace it.

Also having some trouble with the battery holding a charge. It seems like I’m not charging it enough (which I guess makes sense, she’s been sitting 600+ days.) or it drains back to nothing if I remove the charger. I assumed if I charged it, took it off, and tried my key at the least my lights would come on dim. I think this is the float bowl?

- Palace

gggGary · Oct 7, 2021

Batteries that have sat dead for two years are DEAD and will not come back.
Sure tell is to remove it and look. Bulged with mottled, dry appearance is the tombstone.
Some aftermarket electronic ignition. Pamco or XS charge likely. You have the diaphragm screws circled on the carb, float bowl is on the bottom.

(sorry) We all had to start somewhere.
Fuse box is located under seat above the battery.

Expect to see a messed up DIY bunch of loose fuses.

nj1639 · Oct 7, 2021

Buggered screws are generally a result of not using the JIS (Japanese industrial standard) screwdrivers on these metric bikes......this is also where a hand held impact wrench is mighty handy.

Looks like the screws holding down the carb tops have been changed out to Allen heads, a good mod. Mebbe they got buggered by not using the JIS screwdrivers....
.

gggGary · Oct 7, 2021

Float bowl screws have also been changed to allen head.
an 81 should have a float bowl drain screw that is accessible from the side with a #2 JIS.

gggGary · Oct 7, 2021

Raymond · Oct 7, 2021

As nj1639 suggests, you might be able to remove that screw with a hand-held impact driver and a good-fitting bit - need some JIS bits. Or invest in a Vessel Impacta screwdriver, which has a JIS tip and turns a few degrees when you hit it wiv a BFH. It's all about using considered force, not mindless violence. Start with applying oil - penetrating oil, WD40 or similar. Give it time like overnight to penetrate. Can try heating with a heat gun or blow torch but don't overdo it.

If judicious use of force does not work, you might have to resort to drilling it out or using an Easy Out. I've sometimes been able to remove a screw by cutting a cross groove with a junior hacksaw and using a straight bit in an impact driver but that screw might not be get-attable for that approach.

1palace · Oct 7, 2021

gggGary said:
Batteries that have sat dead for two years are DEAD and will not come back.
Sure tell is to remove it and look. Bulged with mottled, dry appearance is the tombstone.
Some aftermarket electronic ignition. Pamco or XS charge likely. You have the diaphragm screws circled on the carb, float bowl is on the bottom.
(sorry) We all had to start somewhere.
Fuse box is located under seat above the battery.
View attachment 199490
Expect to see a messed up DIY bunch of loose fuses.

I don’t see a fuse box at all - unless this mess at the top of the battery is it? PO said when he got her she didn’t have a seat. Got under the fuel tank and snapped a photo of that as well.

5twins · Oct 7, 2021

Well, that mess on top of the battery is where the fuse box used to be, lol. Looks like the P.O. eliminated it and added in-line fuse holders instead. That's what those yellow things are stuffed down in front of the battery.

gggGary · Oct 7, 2021

YUP the DIY fuse holders, there SHOULD be 4 of them. would be best to trace and label them.

Looks like a pretty decent job adding them so you should be able to use them as is.

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