Motorcycle Stolen & Returned

ght58

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I have a 1982 Yamaha XS650 Special that was stolen last week. The police were able to find it (and make an arrest!), but the bike did not come back in the same shape that it was taken.

It looks like a screwdriver was shoved into ignition in an attempt to get it started, and when they didn't work, they attempted to hotwire it (also unsuccessful, all of this was caught on tape at the apt where it was parked). I've posted pics of the ignition and where they cut the wires.

I'm very much a novice working on bikes, but would like to attempt to fix this on my own. I understand it's impossible to tell just from the two pics I posted below, but any help on the following questions would be much appreciated - I'm also happy to take more pics if that would be helpful.

- Do I need to buy anything for the ignition area aside from a new ignition switch?
- Will those cut wires require me to completely re-wire the bike or is there another 'fix'?

Thank you so much for any help/insights you may be able to provide.
 

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You'll need a new (or used) ignition switch from the same year and model. Someone else might be along to tell you what years/models use the same switch and wiring color code. Should be plenty of them available, probably from someone here.

You can splice the existing wires. I recommend using heat-shrink butt connectors. If you need detailed explanations of how to do that, post back here and we'll help ya out.
 
First; I am ecstatic that you got the bike back and an arrest was made!!!

The repairs for guys like us (I'm not so good at mechanics and less inclined with electrical) may seem tough at first; but the folks on this forum are some of the best people around both with knowledge and parts. Help is on the way...

Good luck with your repair.
 
Although Special ignition switches like yours were used from '78 on, the key blanks and key codes were changed in '81 so to have any hope of matching up your original key, you'll need to shop for an '81 or newer assembly. You'll also need to find one that matches up to the letter code of your current lock and key .....

BzLXAZV.jpg


The letter code for your current lock will be stamped on the key if it's an original. If not, you'll need to look for it on the bottom of the switch assembly. If yours has a sticker, hopefully the number isn't worn off. Even if most of it is, all you really need to know is the letter at the start of it. Then you can shop for an ignition switch assembly using the same letter code lock .....

edwSjrp.jpg


I'm in the midst of doing a bunch of posts on the locks and keys these bikes use. What I've done so far should be of some help to you. The next post in the series that I hope to get up in the next few days will be on re-keying these locks. That one should really help you .....

http://www.xs650.com/threads/locks-and-keys.60861/
 
Jan_P s low budget solutions ..
The screwdriver has damaged the top .. But is the lock working as it Should with your key ?
I have seen an XS 650 with damage like that -- and the owner newer repaired it.
if so ( working ) I would consider to make a new round washer in stainless steel polish + cut a even fine hole for the key
Drilling and Filing and then glue that washer on top of the damaged one
Might not be water proof but will look OK

On the other hand a replacement is not so expensive. But takes some time to replace
 
Second pic...........the 2 wires, (Black/Yellow and Black), he has striped and joined are for the clutch switch cut off circuit. This is so the bike wont start with the bike in gear.

The clutch switch cut off circuit and the side-stand cut off circuit, (so the bike wont start if the side-stand is down), can be removed. ..............Someone will chip on on how it is done.

Back to pic 2. Those 2 wires are not connected to the ignition switch. so the switch may be ok as far as the wiring goes to be able to start the bike

here are 2 links for the ignition switch overhaul.........peanut and 5twins, (second link), adds more detail

https://www.xs650.com/threads/ignition-switch-overhaul.46712/

From post #7
https://www.xs650.com/threads/ignition-switch-lock-swap.54928/#post-595755
 
Effin bastiches need to be scotch hobbled.........

Scotch hobbled,
An imaginary punishment involving cutting the scrotal sack in two places and then inserting the leg fully through the openings, thus inhibiting movement. Common usage found in the hills and hollows of southeastern Indiana.
 
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OK, the "Re-keying" post is up, follow the link above. Save your old lock cylinder. Even though it's damaged, some of the wafers may still be good and you may need them to re-key the "new" one you get.
 
Hello all - thank everyone again for all of the comments/insights above. An update since my last post:

I was able to find a new ignition switch at a local garage for very cheap. I installed it, along w/ a new battery, and was also able to splice the cut wires using the heat-shrink butt connectors as suggested.

Good news:
The bike runs!

Bad news:
There seems to be a power issue in that my headlight and 'neutral' light turn on as soon as the battery is connected - whether the keys are in the ignition or not. I am also able to start the bike w/o the keys in the ignition.

Any any thoughts on how to proceed? My blinkers don't work from prior to the bike being stolen, so in addition to this new issue, I'm wondering if I should looking into getting the bike re-wired.
 
Sounds like the bike is "hot wired", lol. You'll need to trace that down, find out how battery power is being supplied to the ignition system and neutral light without the key being "ON". I would start by tracing the path of the red power wire from the main 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch. It should run directly to the switch and nothing else. Sounds like yours has been tapped into somewhere along that line.
 
Sounds like the bike is "hot wired", lol. You'll need to trace that down, find out how battery power is being supplied to the ignition system and neutral light without the key being "ON". I would start by tracing the path of the red power wire from the main 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch. It should run directly to the switch and nothing else. Sounds like yours has been tapped into somewhere along that line.
Thank you! I'll report back once I've taken a look.
 
Thank you! I'll report back once I've taken a look.

Alright, got the hotwire sorted. So, all of these wires were all twisted together except for one of the red w/ white line wires (that I'm touching in pic). That one was connected directly to the battery. When I changed the battery, I just copied how it was done before (be easy on me, I'm learnin haha). I untwisted all of the wires from each other, re-connected the red w/ white lines wires, and that solved the issue. I'll go get some more caps to put on the other 3 and some electrical tape to clean it up.

My buddy brought over an air compressor and we were able to fill the front tire no problem. Unfortunately, the back tire wouldn't take any air, so that is the next problem to solve. I will likely swing by a tire shop today to see what my options are, and am always grateful for yalls insights. The tire is completely flat, and not taking any air in. I don't see any cuts/rips/holes/etc in the tire.

Thanks again for yalls guidance and being patient w/ me!
 

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Oh ok, thank you. What do you mean by 'tool up'?
You're going to need a proper wire cutter, stripper, and crimper. You're also going to need proper splices. And most important, you're going to have to develop a new skill set.
Here's a little something to give you a good idea.
 
Also, where all those wires are twisted together suspiciously looks like where your fuse box used to be. All your fuses could have been eliminated, and that's not a good thing.
 
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