Van Islander's TX650A - Quest for a Daily Rider

It’s crazy, in the million pictures I took of my bike I can’t find one of just the side stand. And 95% of the time I use the center stand when it’s parked so probably not helpful. I found one that might be useful, if for nothing else but to confirm the one shown in Skull’s parts fiche.
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I was just googling parts # 341-27311-01-00 which is Partzillas OEM number and saw one for $29.59 from Service Honda
I'd grab a screen shot but can't remember how
Try searching for the parts # separate from Partzilla's website
 
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Thanks again 5twins for the recommendation regarding the stand modification re grease fittings. I am about to take the stand off and will do that welding and fitting installation this week. The Heidentuning option is really nice but more loot I would rather spend elsewhere. The photo shows the unwanted oiling system I have on this bike. What do you guys with similar age bikes do with the oil coming from PCV tubes? I am cautious about overfilling the engine with oil, and I know about the dipstick level modification, but it still happens. Create a little trap of some sort? How to do that and not obstruct the tubes? This bike leaves an oil stain wherever I park it because of this and I need to stop that. Thanks.
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Yes, there were sometimes issues with too much oil and/or oil vapor coming out of the breather tubes on the earlier models. Some owners complained and Yamaha tried various things over the years to remedy the situation. Basically, the problem boiled down to being breather outlets that were too big. First thing they tried was to remove one of the hoses and plug it's outlet, only running one hose. You could try that to see if it helps .....

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The next thing they tried was restoring the two hoses but fitting rubber reducer plugs with very small (like 1/8") holes in both outlets .....

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Unfortunately you can't get those plugs anywhere. In fact, I've never even seen them on a parts drawing or listed. The last change was a whole new breather box with only one outlet that had a small hole. This change happened around 1980 .....

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This may be your only option. It will swap right onto your motor.

I run pods and poise the breather hoses over them. That way, if anything does come out, it just gets recycled through the motor. It's a simple, clean set-up. I also fit power brake check valves to the ends of the hoses. These are one-way valves that let pressure out but nothing back in .....

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Yes, there were sometimes issues with too much oil and/or oil vapor coming out of the breather tubes on the earlier models. Some owners complained and Yamaha tried various things over the years to remedy the situation. Basically, the problem boiled down to being breather outlets that were too big. First thing they tried was to remove one of the hoses and plug it's outlet, only running one hose. You could try that to see if it helps .....
The next thing they tried was restoring the two hoses but fitting rubber reducer plugs with very small (like 1/8") holes in both outlets .....
Unfortunately you can't get those plugs anywhere.

Here’s what I did to reduce the size of the vent openings in the breather on my XS2.
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I wanted to approximate the size openings I had on my ‘77, it came with the rubber plugs.
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So I found a machine screw nut with a 1/8” opening that fit the space,
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And glued them in with JB Weld,
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This helped but did not entirely remedy the motor venting oil vapor on the bottom side of the frame. So every once in a while I just get under there with some degreaser and paper towels and clean things up.
 
Last day of the year, bright and snowy here in Victoria (which is pretty rare). I've installed the modified center stand and reinstalled the stiffened handlebar mount bushings, (photos will be posted) and now onto the rear brake servicing and PCV modification. Referencing a recent thread, "rear drum brake", I'm realizing that part of my rear brake system is incorrectly installed - not the correct dimple location. My rear brake was becoming weak, so I look forward to removing the wheel after this post and doing some investigation. Bosco659 noted a significant improvement in braking when he corrected his so will let you guys know how it goes. I'm thinking aloud about 5twins recommendation to drain the PCV venting over the air filters. Thoughts on routing hosing back into my stock air filter inlets and somehow positioning the one-way check valves over my air filters? The hoses would have to turn 180 degrees so I would have to use some springs over the hoses at the bend point to ensure they don't get kinked and closed off. I don't want to cut up anything or put holes into the stock air boxes. Happy New Year!
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Thanks 5twins. That's perfect! I'll find that somewhere local. I just took the rear wheel off for the first time (another thing I should have done right after I bought it, just to be sure about everything), and found out a few things.
The brake shoe camshaft must be positioned correctly even though the dimple location is faced away from the axle. See attached photos. When the brake camshaft lever is actuated, the curved parts of the camshaft are moving upon the brake shoes. Sure is wanting some lubrication though - absolutely bone dry! I'll be doing a thorough cleaning and polishing as much as possible before reinstallation.
So this has led to a few questions: My rear sprocket is 34 tooth. I believe I've read that some have used 35 or 36 tooth sprockets to get higher highway speeds at lower RPM? Would it be necessary to change my chain if I do this, and if so, is a front sprocket change required? The mechanical side of me says not necessary to change the chain. Also, what is the correct torque value to reattach the sprocket?
thanks!
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Yes, lower the number of rear sprocket teeth to lower cruising RPMs, but not by much, only 1 or 2 teeth. I feel one tooth less (33T) is ideal for an 18" wheel, 2 down (32T) is perfect on a 16" wheel.

Many seem to have difficulty visualizing this brake cam thing. If the dimple is facing away from the axle, the cam is not installed right. Mentally mark the lower left rounded point of your cam in your 1st pic. Now rotate the cam 180°, and where does that point end up? It is now the upper right point, and the one that was there has taken it's place on the lower left. You still have the rounded points pushing the shoes open, they are just now in opposite positions. The difference between these two rounded corners is very slight, not enough to see with the naked eye, so you have to rely on the dot stamped on top of the shaft to get the cam installed correctly.

For servicing your rear drum brake, see post #3 here ......

https://www.xs650.com/threads/how-difficult-is-it-to-replace-the-rear-drum-brakes.25632/
 
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I would replace the wheel bearings while you have it off. All balls has them pretty cheap.

I suggest a 32 tooth sprocket. Much less buzzy . I rode Old Brown around Houston for a month with the race bike's 18 inch rear wheel that had a 30 tooth rear sprocket with a 17 tooth countershaft sprocket and liked it alot. It depends where you ride. Where I live the speed limit on I-10 is 80 MPH with the 90th percentile doing around 90. I'm looking for a 30 rear.The race bike was pretty heavily leaned on and it would easily pull red line with 30 -18 sprockets. Search around here for the gearing spreadsheet. Fun to play with.

Your brake cam is definitely backwards.
 
Going down one or two teeth isn't a big enough change to allow for shortening the chain. You have to keep running the stock chain length.
 
Thanks for those suggestions 5twins and Team Junk. Will make the change and also get some new wheel bearings. They definitely do not look as new as the front did when I took that apart. Will start looking for 32 or 33 tooth sprocket as I do want to be able to ride this bike at 60 to 75 mph comfortably. Less buzzy would be nice. Updates to come.
 
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