Well bugger me...

As you know, I enjoy 3D printing and do quite a bit. In spurts, to be sure, but collectively enough to keep a couple of spools of filament on hand.

Lately, I've been struggling to get proper prints. It's critical that the first couple of layers of a print adhere to the build plate properly. If the print comes loose, it's ruined. There are a number of factors that figure in to proper adhesion: Filament quality, plate temperature, plate cleanliness (oils and such), plate alignment/levelness, nozzle condition, nozzle temperature, print speed and print parameters are the biggies. There are four print parameters regarding adhesion specifically: None, Rim, Skirt and Raft in increasing order of adhesion. The only way I could get ANYTHING to stick was with the Raft and that doubles or more the print time, and uses a lot of filament. Even that was iffy.

I've been tweaking ALL of them and still couldn't get prints to adhere consistently. I was getting dangerously close to conducting experiments regarding the effect of gravity on trajectory and velocity with the whole thing.

The build plate is a two piece assembly. The base is a heated metal plate with adjusters for leveling and height on the corners. There is a textured glass plate that clips to that. Tho I couldn't think of any reason a glass plate would wear out, and mine wasn't broken or warped that I could detect, it was the only thing I hadn't changed so I went ahead and ordered a replacement. At less than $15, why not?

I. will. be. damned. Clipped that puppy on the base, didn't even align it, tried a print that has been kicking my ass for days and it was perfect. In fact, TOO perfect, it was a beeyotch to get it off the plate!

I have several very small prints that I've been wanting to try but knew they'd be a disaster given the history of adhesion problems. I think I have that beat now...

I know nothing about 3D printing but could the glass plate have a tiny bit of contamination on it? Maybe a light scuffing with 600 grit paper do some thing or even a shot with a glass bead machine?

kshansen said:

I know nothing about 3D printing but could the glass plate have a tiny bit of contamination on it? Maybe a light scuffing with 600 grit paper do some thing or even a shot with a glass bead machine?

Click to expand...

Possibly the texture has "filled in" with remnants of prints that isopropyl alcohol won't remove. One day when I'm in an investigative mood, I'll try cleaning it with acetone and see if that helps.

One of the guys I work with got the company to spring for a Creality CR30 which has been problematic from the start. All the base adhesion issues mentioned and possible fixes, cleaning, scuffing etc. And then there's variations in filament types.

Short version :
Switch to a PEI metal plate!!!!!


Long version:
Got my son a 3D printer almost 10 years ago (Davinci) and it only did ABS. Over time, he did less and less with it.
I wanted to be able to do it myself and wanted to use the new PETG an the old Davinci did not do PETG

I got a Creality 3d printer I think 2 years ago. Ender 3 V2. The world changed for me when I went to PETG and a PEI steel plate.
I swear, its print and forget.
We have 2 of these at work also and the mechanical engineers do prototyping on it before sending files to have metal parts made.
I print all the time and just print, and scrape off. No blue tape, no glue stick and it works great.
PETG works well outdoors and I have some parts on my boat that have been outside for 2 years in the sun and have not faded.
Hatchbox PETG from Amazon.

What I did was I put the plate onto the Printer and then worked hard to level the bed inherently with some clear tape right onto the magnetic sheet under the PEI metal plate. After it was inherently level, I added the auto leveler attachment and it auto levels. I swear to you, its print and forget.
Every once in a while, if I change only the colors, I have to adjust the retraction and speed. I run the little post/bridge part to get new settings.

I have printed a few misc things for other bikes and many things for around the house or the boat. Even dabble a little CAD myself (I'm an Electrical Engineer by education). I use Fusion 360 and am a neophyte at it.

Here is the PEI build plate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N9CTYJY/

Something I print for all my bikes. makes a big difference on wrist fatigue
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:895432

At the moment, I'm shickled titless with the new textured glass plate, but I'll make a note of your suggestion and try one if I have more trouble.

Have you printed the 5 or 9 leveling squares to look at your Z offset setting and bed leveling?
If you don't get that looking good w/o striping, you won't get good adhesion.
On the PEI plate and your textured glass plate, you should see the texture really uniform and not striping on the bottom.
Getting the z offset an leveling is IMO the key to that.

Melnic said:

Have you printed the 5 or 9 leveling squares to look at your Z offset setting and bed leveling?
If you don't get that looking good w/o striping, you won't get good adhesion.
On the PEI plate and your textured glass plate, you should see the texture really uniform and not striping on the bottom.
Getting the z offset an leveling is IMO the key to that.

View attachment 312404

Click to expand...

I haven't. If more problems crop up, I do that.