New Battery, Stator, Rotor, Regulator, POWER STILL DRAINING!

Alxs650

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I have changed every part of the charging system and still the battery (brand new, 3rd one) still drains, starts out at 12.7 volts, after a 20 mile ride the bike dies, battery down to 11.1 volts :banghead:

I changed the stator to new, regulator/rectifier to new, rotor replace to on that measured good 5 ohm resistance.

Last year I took to a shop, they put in a manual headlight switch and capped of the yellow wire that they said was the draw, said its good to go but try not to use the headlight:wtf: Bike died on the way home:mad:

Now I don't even know where to start... If someone can recomend a good shop in the Minneapolis, MN area that would be great. I can figure out mechanical things, but when it comes to electronics I am clueless...

Naturally I should have sold the bike as is and got a new one, however I am strangely attached to this one, even though it has been dying on me ever since I got it, I don't want to give up.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
When you rev the motor to 3k does the voltage go up to around 14v? When you ride it, do you cruise in the range of 2.5k - 3k minimum?
 
When I measure at the battery terminals, it only goes up like .1-.2 volts, not anywhere near 14v.

Yesterday I charged the battery up all the way to 12.7-12.9, then after a 20 mile ride it died at a stop light even though I was trying to keep it reved to 3k+. Then I charged the battery again and got it home. Today it starts right up but idles at 11.95volts, does not seem to go up at all when reved?

Could there be a draw that that bad between the alternator and the battery, if so I don't know how to begin to look for it.. Or did I screw something up when installing one of the charging components?
 
If you don't see the 14v then it's not charging and that's your problem. I assume you put the new parts in right. Since you have new parts, look at the connectors on the harness that the reg/rect goes to. Under the left side cover. My charging problem was that green wire wasn't crimped to the connector well enough anymore. Re-crimping fixed it. You have to get the connectors out of the holder, which can be a pain. They have a prong that springs out to hold them in and you have to push that back with a paper clip or something.
 
Well, he can always sell the parts, or have them as backups - not a bad idea.

When you get down to the connectors, if you're dealing with a female one, squeeze it where the edges are rolled over too, so it'll grip its mate better.
 
Thanks for the help, I'll look at the connectors.

As for new parts, I really don't mind having new parts as I want a reliable commuter bike.

I wish I learned about the Banshee Charging System Swap earlier, I would have done that...
 
If I wanted to do the Banshee thing now, I would sell sell the spare parts, install the Banshee stuff, then sell the second set of parts. Just to not have so much money tied up. But first I would get it working as is, for the sake of my self-respect! And for practice - chances are you'll have to troubleshoot the Banshee a little bit too.
:)
 
Doing my own research, and talking to some banshee guys. I found out that the banshee guys like to use RZ350 alternators as an "upgrade". When searching ebay I found an RZ350 setup complete from a banshee guy and sniped it for $51... Sorry if one of you was the one I bid against, gotta do what ya gotta do.
 
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