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I've stiffened them right up with spacers in the top of the tubes, the only other thing to do would be to get a lowering kit for them just to bring them down a bit, but as the legs will be the same length there will be no weight loss.

Engine mounts have been welded, engine is in very tight fit but its in

Ù Thanks, The wheel base is around 72" it's a period frame so will work with what I've got, it's just too long to stay in classic class which is 68" but that's no hardship ad they changed the classes this year and includes all bikes up to 94 and 1500cc so virtually no difference to racing class,

Engine is starting to go together now, Shell rods with 80.5mm JE pistons, head will have 2mm over valves and Shell #3 cam, this is a lot different to the #1 cam

Bottom engine mounts are finished and welded up, need to get the engine built then decide if I'm putting a top engine mount on and how low i can get the tank

I would build it lightly lubricated, I had one one the bench for a year when I opened it up because I wanted some parts the one half cylinder head had gone rusty

I'm going to use a cb400 wheel as I have it, laced up with a wide 18 inch rim which so can start off with a 130/90 race conti road attack tyre, eventually ending up with a vintage drag tyre

Managed to get my hands on an old 80s dragbike frame, it's been sitting at the back of the shed for a while while I kept looking at it wondering how to get the very tall xs engine in it, Finally decided to take the plunge and drill the frame as with the bottom mount above I couldn't get the...

Your small ends looked shot, though they normally are with just a thin smear of copper coating, you can see the copper on the front and back but worn out on both bottoms, can't see the top, may be an optical illusion but the oil feed for the head the thread in the crankcase looks non existent...

72 frame, worked 750 engine, where its twisting the frame its just cracked by the swing arm pivot

Reviving an old thread, I was stripping mine down yesterday to change a couple of bits on it and found my frame cracked, I was wondering why it was pulling all over the place on the start line, I looked at the later frame and its got a steel plate welde to the inside around the pivot point of...

Yes took me years to get there, I prefer the 1/8th when you look at it it's doing 95mph on the 1/8th then only getting to 108 over double the distance, so just waiting for the end on the 1/4, especially as it's already in 4th by the end of the 1/8th so just one gear change and 13mph for double...

Mines not stock but this is 1/8 and 1/4

With the pull clutch I would guess sidecar scrambler

http://www.smedspeed.co.uk/tech.html 880cc according yo this page on smedspeed

You don't have to break the cam chain, take the chain adjuster out lift the cam slightly and the bearings will come off the end of the cam, then the chain will ease off yhe timing wheel, this is when you put a cable tie on the chain so it's easy to pull back through the head

To say if it's pre ignition or not you would need to see both pistons so you can see the state of the other one, What pistons are they if they are JE these are very strong and will take being touched by the valve, I've had a few valves touching the piston, You might want to examine the crank...

Bought this as a long term project, think it may take a bit longer than I thought as although it looks like there's plenty of room for the engine to get it in the bottom mount comes right in the middle of the bottom rails

Anybody got any jetting numbers for dellorto phm38 carbs, I'm try to sort out a high revving misfire I have and think it may be my old carbs worn out, I've been waiting to try the 38s for a long time so nows the time I think