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Amazing build!

Neato, found the reason for my high-rpm slip without even looking for it. Added to my winter list: springs. -j

Sweet, it keeps getting better. Thanks for the replies! -jonathan

Hmm very interesting! I wonder, is the vacuum from one carb enough to draw adequate fuel? -j

Sorry, should have specified that - BS34s

On the subject of drilling for barbs, JBM says to install the barbs on the carbs instead of the manifolds and I like the idea but I'm wondering about placement. Anyone out there done this? Got a pic? -j

Excellent, thanks. I live in the city and am pretty conscious of my tank level so I'm not worried about running out of gas but I do love my CarbMate for synching; I will drill these manifolds out for barbs sooner or later, just want to throw these on and ride today. Thanks 5twins! -jonathan

Switching to non-vacuum barb manifolds from JBM (he doesn't drill them for vacuum barbs anymore and I don't feel like drilling my own) can I still use vacuum petcock and switch it over to "prime"? thanks! -jonathan

I wish I could answer your question about whether your case is deformed or not, I just don't have the knowledge. I did try to use a torque wrench on the bolts and ended up snapping one (as they are meant to do) so after the nightmare of removing the bit left in the case, I decided to forego...

I made the mistake of reinstalling my sump cover with a dry gasket and had major leaks afterward. I then tried a film of grease on both sides, still leaked. Then I dispensed with the paper gasket altogether. I cleaned both surfaces with a solvent and applied Permatex grey 1-minute gasket to...

Thanks Hugh, I put your stator and flywheel on and now my bike is producing enough power! Hell, the headlight isn't even dim at idle as it has been since I did my PMA conversion and my horn is full loudness at idle too; I used to have to rev it up to get loud honks! So happy! Now back to the...

Thanks Mr. Mharrington! I am am honored to have provided some inspiration, your bike is looking great! I love what you did with the motor paint job. Its funny looking at that pic; I don't even recognize my bike anymore because now its all greasy and sooty from a year of riding without a wash...

Hey, I live in NYC and I ride almost exclusively in the city with a few expressway trips to the beach. I'm running a 17/36 and chose this config for the same reason you are looking to. Great acceleration and I can keep up with highway traffic but I know I'm at a higher RPM than I ought to be...

I love the wheels/tires, classic. No front brake? You aren't finished, you have to shave down those fork legs!

Thanks man. I placed an order with you for a new stator and flywheel and am looking forward to leaving this problem behind.

Ok, so the general consensus is bad rotor. I will get a new one. Stator, what about that?

If my rotor had weak magnets would it still generate the same voltage as a normal rotor? I ask because my multimeter reading showed normalcy.

Well i suppose but is this normal? I don't think it is, I haven't come across this problem anywhere else on this site.

Yes, I am using the same stator. I checked at the posts of the capacitor and when I flicked the headlight switch, the needle on the multimeter tilted left quickly registering a big voltage drop. I did run with a tiny battery and capacitor for the last year and the bike ran ok unless the battery...

More than a year later and I've got more information. I used a multimeter to check the voltage and its 14 at idle and like 15 or so at higher rpm. When I flick on my 35w headlight there is a BIG voltage drop and the bike stalls. What could be causing this?!?! Capacitor: Mallory 68000 uF 25 VDC...