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The automotive term is condenser.

Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still. Ride on.

I seem to be having the same problem. Mine peters out at 5,000 RPM. That's just barely 70 MPH. Does great out on the two lane, but hit the Freeway and traffic gets all screwed up. I'm pretty good on carbs. I've been thru everything I can think of including everything on this thread. I've come to...

They generally shut up when I blow them off the road in the twisties. If that don't work I tell them why I quit riding Harleys. I got tired of walkin! Went from 5,000 miles a year to 25,000 by changing brands. But I'm considered a Fossil around here. Most don't dare to give me any shit.

Drill small holes, and use rubber grommets to prevent wire chafing.

You can run it that way, but I'd advise at least a Kill Switch with it located close to your right thumb. Trust me, if you go down you want to be able to Kill the motor PRONTO! Running WOT while all the oil is laying in which ever side of the case that hits the ground instead of the sump pick-up...

I use automotive grade acrylic enamel with a coat of urethane clear. I've painted lots of motors with no heat problems even after years on the road. Lighter colors do have a tendency to discolor a little around the exhaust ports, but not enough to worry about. As far as Big Bore kits are...

Here's a link to the image. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4303395016675&set=a.4303379736293.169752.1040701848&type=3&theater

This is my last rattle can job. It lasted ten years, and I didn't use any clear. Used Krylon from Wal-mart. It's almost all in the prep. You need a clean well lighted area to work, and pick a dry day with low humidity to spray. Keep an even temperature during the curing time. Don't rush on...

$209 for that ass wetter???

I finally just threw up my hands and went with a Permanent Magnet Alternator after changing out the rotor, stator, regulator, and rectifier. I just bit the bullet, and bought the PMA from Mikes XS. This ain't my first XS. Always had problems with the charging systems on these bikes, but my...

As to your shocking revelation. If you are riding one of these bikes it's at least 30 years old, and prone to bad connections. Once you clean all of these connections (positive as well as negative), and repair any shorts including the plug wires there is no reason to believe you'll ever be...

Well, where is your engine ground? The starter, charging, and ignition systems are grounded thru the engine. The engine is grounded to the frame so you end up with a frame ground anyway. Why not just make it a good one? BTW, if you are getting shocked like you said it has to be coming from a...

Why bother? The frame is a ground. You can add a ground connection with a drill, and self taping screw anywhere along the frame. Of course it wouldn't hurt to add a wire, but seems like a duplication of effort to me.

Two separate systems. The ignition runs off the battery (or the Capacitor if no battery is used). Wire it to the battery and it will work as advertised.

Something to ponder from the carb guide. My present bike is a 78, but the carbs were questionable. I inherited an 80 model from a friend that got killed. The carbs were in good shape. I cleaned them up, adjusted the mixture screws out 2 1/2 turns, installed new bowl gaskets, and needle &...

First check the bulbs. Take a hot jumper wire from the battery + and touch it to the contacts on the end of the bulb one at a time while grounding the case to a good ground (frame, motor, or battery negative). If both sides work the bulb is good, if not get a new one. Look inside the tail light...