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Maybe one of the PO's had a reeeeeeeeeeeeeally big.................................................hernia..... ....or a banana seat... ....or she was pregnant...:shrug::laughing: ok, I'm done now...

Your tensioner is mounted at too far forward of an angle making it too ridged or stiff. The spring is there to give some cushion, not to keep it tight. This thread, post #9, shows the desired angle. http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15316 You want it to be taut, not tight. It...

Any electrical power at all? Headlight working? Fuse(s), battery connection(s)/voltage? Sufficiently grounded? Fuel level and/or petcock position? Does she still crank with the kicker or (if battery voltage is present) e-start?

:agree: Not to mention clutch pushrod actuation/adjustment.

Sweeeeeet! Two thoughts..... 1. cut a deeper recess for: 2. Velcro, or to epoxy a neodymium magnet in the knob and a corresponding thin mild steel/tin disc under the logo, if nonferrous. My OCD polishing scenario consists of HAND sanding from 150 grit, 220/320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 then...

I hear ya. The power pole adjacent to my building has 3 phase and it took me $3k to run it inside my building:yikes:! Although my rate is 3 cents less per KW/hr. I do plan on being here awhile. Not to mention the eclectic machine shop I'm assembling.:wink2:

Damn Gary! It's a bummer ya don't live closer. I've got 3 phase throughout, but I've also got this.......

After a ride does the cap feel hot or hotter by touch, gloves first(?:wink2:)..... How about when it fails? If the (bad) cap is underrated, too much current transfer creates heat It needs to dissipate even if mounted well enough in the air stream. Not to mention the polarity could also be...

My best guess.....your cap is not rated for the draw and is overheating. Get a bigger cap, or swap the HL bulb for the weaker one and try it.

He's a member....:thumbsup: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=357863&postcount=14

Routine maintenance does wonders lol. ......Time to go play with my mobile museum.....:):bike:

My tried and true, thorough, and reliable method is complete disassembly, soaking in Berrymans' from an hour to overnight depending on accumulation of sediment and residue. Then a vigorous flushing of every port in my parts washer. And finally blasting each port with 100 psi of compressed air...

Those lines/craters/cavities need to be completely removed for proper ring seal. A 447 w/ .25 over slugs? Are you replacing stockers with 0.25's, or they're already there and you need to step up to the next size? Either way the pistons need to be measured and the bores matched to them. If the...

Spark plug condition? Carbs synced? Idle rpm?

The only adequate way to perform this repair Fred, the head needs to be removed to prevent all those tiny little abrasive iron (combustion chamber) filings from being deposited inside the cylinders. Band-aid machining can get you going, I just don't believe it'll get you more than a season...

Holy sh*t! You get a hundred!?! :D :agree: One thing: BPR7EIX -Projected tip. BR7EIX -Non-projected.....maybe short enough:shrug:

Having a few years left (fingers crossed :wink2:), and being reeeeeeeally stubborn, generous usage of towels, pipe insulation, and tape, patience, milk crate + wood blocking, gloves, centerstand helpful, but not necessary......Dry (no oil inside engine). Removal (or postponing installation) of...

I would open up the clutch cover and clean/inspect the oil pump and passageways, and service the sump filter/screen too...... [COUGH] http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html Oil? Reasonably cheap 20w-50. Changed every 1-2k miles. Carb issue? Thorough cleaning of pilot...

Welcome! Invest in a mechanics stethoscope. It'll help pinpoint the noise. It sounds like valves to me tho. Not that it can't be scuffed cyl walls, or loose wrist pin(s), or pitted valve stems, or......... Time to play doctor. Just don't forget the hot nurse!:D

Yup! 6.5-19mm.