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its worth a shot!

Hi everyone! I do a fair bit of lurking here and pipe in occasionally. Right now I am trying to figure out an exhaust design to spend a bit of the tax check on. Its based off of the Gordon Scott curved drag pipes but it seems he isn't in business anymore. Another option i hadn't finished is...

thats a pretty awesome idea, will the lexan cloud over time?

Finally managed the time to get it mostly wired up. Still need to add in the tail and headlight circuits but the necessary running circuits are there! And with a little ether I'm getting flame out the exhaust so I think I managed to actually wire it right. Next up is fixing the placement of the...

I would say no, but anyone feel free to come and correct me. the 1980 and up models used the tdi ignitions which have the timing pick up on the stock charging rotor. When you replace with the PMA you will lose that. I Would also probably install the pamco first and make sure that is working well...

Surprisingly I still have this bike! It's been floating with me through college and getting some attention here and there. The charging system was never right from when the start. The rotor was shot. Trying to getting a decent tune without a charging system is not too fun, so that's pretty much...

It's worth a shot!

Would you happen to still have this? PM inbound

Looking good! what is that gold yamaha tank off of?

still have this?

to the left of the F would be advanced ever so slightly. But that should be close enough to where it would run. Make sure you check your tappet clearances as well as making sure the advance assembly isn't sticking. If its at normal idle rpms when it should be then that should be ok. I may be...

The F should be between two line. at idle you want it to be set between those two lines. I've read that its best to err on the side of retarded rather than advances if you can get it exact.

that oring is 4mm i.d. x 1 mm thick

that is very large! you want .003 on the intakes and .006 on the exhaust

something to laugh at http://dayton.craigslist.org/mcy/3993037576.html

he's had another thread checking most of the valve and timing issues, his cam chain was of a tooth. from a brief glance over there http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29705 that's where i assumed he got the valves and timing set. so not it would either be spark and/or fuel right? just...

you'd want to check for continuity at the brush and at the end of the wire. Check out this diagram, it looks to be what you have wiring wise. at least at the stator that is. depending on what relays and such you are still running will dictate whether you will need the yellow wire or not. the...

actually upon looking at your pictures again and another wiring diagram, the one off yellow wire is the feed to the safety relay. you should have a brown, blue, and green wire plus the other 3 whites. blue is the neutral signal. green and brown run to the brushes.

there are the normal three white wires coming off, two for the brushes on the alternator, and the last should be a signal wire that goes to the safety relay. Pop your alternator cover off to where you can see the brushes and use a multimeter to figure out which wire goes where.

jets will have the sizes stamped on top of them. http://www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf - This is the bible for these carbs. It will tell you all you need to know. Just off of memory, you want the mix screws 2.25 turns out.stock jets should be 135 main and 27.5 pilot. With your filters and...