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Much thanks for all the advice! Finally got BS38s on the bike replaced fuse holders. The problem is gone! :bike:

Thanks for the replies. seems like overheating is more of a sudden failure leading to major damage rather than the bike temporarily running poorly until it cools.

Thanks to a few forum members I've made good progress on troubleshooting my 79 Special. The bike runs okay for 10 or so miles then craps out. I'm in the process of rebuilding some BS 38s as the current carbs are vac leaking from every nook and cranny. It was suggested that lean conditions and...

Still waiting on ordered carb parts. Will post an update when I've put on the bs38s and new fuse holders.

4 fuses here, 79 special. On closer inspection it looks like one of the hold clips for the main fuse was broken off and the fuse is just jammed in there. Blade type fuses it is. Will do the unplug the reg test as you suggested.

Thanks XSLeo! The tip about unplugging the regulator is just what I needed to help pinpoint the problem. Bike is a 79 and has points. Going to wait until I get the BS38s dialed in then I'll give running without the regulator a shot. I may try riding until the problem occurs then unplugging...

I'll keep an eye out for those EX 500carbs, thanks for the advice. Good to know they can be made to work well. I suppose the PWK's from Mikes could also be made to work well with enough time and tinkering, but the materials used to build these carbs is cheap. I already have the BS38s torn...

Thanks for advice 5twins. Good to know the rebuild kits are worthless. I agree, these PWKs are crap.

Thanks Peanut! You make a good point. I got my hands on some BS 38's and from what I read they are better carbs and easier to dial in. I'll (try to) rebuild those and properly dial them in. The other plus to using the 38's is that there is a ton of tuning and repair info for them. the...

It does drop from both cylinders. I don't think it's the coils.

Where did you connect the voltmeter? Voltage to my battery seems okay even after the bike dies. It's like something is retarding the spark as it gets hot.

One coil is stock, one is not. No cracks. I've tested them hot and they seem to be okay.:banghead:

Sorry about not getting back to reply sooner. I keep my bike in a friends garage and between work and family it's a struggle to make time to work on the bike. I wanted to run the suggested tests before replying to suggestions. Peanut, thank you for the advice regarding the carbs. Once I get...

I tested battery at idle, slightly under 14V. New brushes and rotor was at about 7.5 ohms.. Have payed more attention to what happens when the bike starts to run bad. I've noticed that the neutral light fades especially when RPMs are low. Yet battery is above 12 V.. Does anybody have...

It makes sense that it would be something stressing the electrical system. I'll check the grounds and try ohming the rotor.

Thanks for the advice all! I rode a few miles this morning with the gas cap open. Still having the same problem, so that's one thing to cross off the list of possible causes. The bike is a 79 special, almost 100% stock, only 8,000 miles. Still using the points ignition. I bought the bike...

The bike starts first kick and runs fine for about 10 or so miles. After that RPMs drop, pops from both cylinders and bike has a hard time going from a stop. Eventually it will stop running and won't start again until its cooled down I've checked: -Coils, good -Plugs, slightly rich but not...