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Thanks 5twins. Makes sense! And as always, good help around here :)

Then again i wonder why the mix screws can be turned almost fully in (0.5 turns from bottom) and no noticable sound on rpm drops. At 0.5 turns out it dies. For notice, i have not yet tried the dead cylinder with the other air filters (ram air race pods without cap) My first thought was pilot...

I have some new air filters that does not have a cap for trial now. But what i did try was, (with the 45 pilots) i adjusted the mixture screw to 3 turns out from bottom. And the bike started to pop alot on decel. Wouldnt that indicate a lean condition? :O went back to 3,5 turns out and no pop on...

Had to buy the unis from the states and took some time. I can get a hold of these from ram air (heard good stuff about em) they are still short but no capped ends. Thoughts? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F350952699377

You think that would matter? I dont think i can get them any better. Both were almost spot on at the flange, if they are suppose to be there? The pictures could have been taken slightly in an angle too ;D Haha, all that gas does make the head kinda grey here aswell :)

Yes i know that but as grizzly qouted, its for fine tuning. I have a huge issue ;D

Hehe thanks man :) Id rather not post before i actually went through other systems first :) Here you have fuel levels. Both Side almost identical, first picture is left carb, second right. I was making sure i had No air in there too. Petcock on, bike level (as you were riding it) Even made a...

Yeah indeed. Ive been running the mix screws at 3 turns out until. I noticed before it was a bit rich but the mixscrew respond was about none. I can get a hold of 42.5 PJ's, but would be a week before i could give them a try. I'll do the level check with a tube and post in a few hours. Swim...

Ill start from the beginning on the carbs. They have been rebuilt, ive ultrasonic cleaned atleast 3 times and blowed air through every hole i could find. Ive set the floats to 21.5-22mm (plastic ones) and done the fuel level check with a tube on the bike. I'll do that again today and post pics...

Question: Im trying to set my mixture screws, but it starts to "stumble" with the mixture screws 1/2 turn out from fully seated and i can not get it to stumble at all when turning the mix screw out further. It runs and idles good, it feels rich when revving from idle. And plugs (smoke ring)...

Too bad. Would have been awesome throwing that mechanical unit out.

Is this on the market yet? =) been looking to swap out that ATU... it sucks.

Is there a way to check if the atu is advancing at idle? (weak springs) weights all the way in against the disc? and then check timing? and then free them up to see that you are at the same place?

650skull: I have 4 OEM springs, and 2 new from mikes already. Guess ill have to play around a bit. 5twins: Advance rod is newly greased. Only one heat cycle with it, turned freely/easily without weights and springs in place. Maybe ill have to use 2 OEM springs, set the timing so its not over...

So no new springs are found? I'm searching aswell. I have 2 OEM uncut springs, 2 OEM cut springs. Im having trouble that my advance isnt 'linear'. How linear should it be? with one cut and one uncut spring, it reaches full advance at 3k. but it looks like it 'jumps' in the advance curve from 2k...

Yepp i have a big single aswell. And that technique works aswell. I used rgs tips. Turned it in til no movement then 3 flats out. It got nice movement, not to much and not to less. Would Guess around 1mm

Yeah i used that technique. Works bery good

What exacly för you mean with ' 3 flats'?

Im awakening the the thread a bit. Although im not running a pamco (heiden 277 ignition) same principle i guess. Im Iooking at same problem, too much advance (past mark) when revving 3k+. Idle set between F marks. Its bouncing pretty much too, the mark on stator. New springs and clips on atu...