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This would be great! I’m about to dive into a rebuild again.

So, here’s an update. I think I’ve got the problem solved. I was dealing with three problems: 1) I’m not good at electrical systems troubleshooting 2) I think it was the brushes that were my charging problem 3) I had a bad connection from the coil to condenser leading to no spark and confusing...

That's right.. that's the thread i'm working off of. I've now got the bike where it will pass the slap test and i didn't really change anything other than messed with the brushes, and there may have been a poor connection there. I was excited to get it to pass that test and it seemed to run ok...

I can't say that i followed a mod, I bought the Solid state rectifier regulator from xs650direct (Part #24-2089 - http://www.xs650direct.com/products-30.html) and it says that it plugs directly into the stock harness and replaces the stock individual units.

Double checked some numbers: - Voltages through regulator: 12.5 at battery, 12.1 into regulator, 10.9 to +ve brush - Rotor is at 5.1 ohms, 5.4 with meter - infinite resistance from rings to rotor case - brushes seem to be making good contact.. i measured 9 ohm resistance through the...

The brushes were fine and I just installed a new set because I had some on hand. The rotor checks out at 5 ohms but I didn’t check rings to rotor case. I’ll check those again tomorrow.

Yes, There’s no difference between key off vs. Key on, just a very small mag force and it’s not detected with the engine cover on.

early model, 78

Hi guys, i'm losing out on valuable riding time and am hoping to get this figured out so I can get going again. i started with misfiring and after messing with the carbs i started testing the electrical and found that the battery voltage won't increase with RPM, staying at 12.4. I made some...

got both up to 145 psi for compression :woowoo: and when looked over the carbs again, i realized how much i'd messed with the settings before rebuilding the motor. once i matched the butterfly's (that were unintentionally misaligned) and set mixture screws back to normal it ran just okay. it...

how about the issue of the cylinder that runs on startup but kicks out after startup? could be a plugged passage too? to give some time reference, i would say my bike starts up on the right and about 30 seconds in, the left cylinder will kick in and the right cylinder goes out. :shrug: I did...

I also realize the thread is old, just throwing out a hail mary here.

Hey ChoppinLefty, did you ever get this one solved? I'm actually having the exact symptoms you described.. I had been having some electrical issues that seem to have been solved but this one remained so I assumed it was electrical as well.. i'll pull the carbs and take a closer look.

Just finished a full rebuild on the motor and got to hear the sweet sound of startup last night. I bought the bike last year to resurrect it from the junker and now i have to wait for the snow to melt to break 'er in! :bike:

Thanks for the info, it seemed pretty accurate for cost. i've finished the rebuild by putting all the internals from my motor into the new bottom end I bought off of Ronnie_d on this site!

Awesome, thanks for the response. It was good to have some confirmation it’s alright before I button this thing back up. Thanks for the link too, It’s been a long time since I’ve seen that one and I almost forgot about that reference. Also, for what it’s worth, the heat gun and rubber mallet...

Split a couple of cases today. I found it odd that some of the holes in the case that line up with the holes in the bearing race were open in one case but appeared plugged during casting on the other. does this matter? first pic is a thru-hole while second pic is (blurry) showing me pointing...

I've gotta say that the "TwoMany Jugs Method" is golden and should be cast in stone as the way to get it done. after lots of beating at it with a softwood/hammer combo, applying heat, and coaxing with a dead blow hammer, in the end using a bolt from the cover as leverage with a peice of bar...

I'm not a fan of assumptions and I get that sometimes it's all we have to formulate a response on.. As an engineer, I can confirm you're giving engineers too much credit and a bike shop would be my choice if I didn't have over a decade of wrenching experience. I've tried everything you've...

Thanks for the reply. I have taken the extra three out as well as the CCT. I’m stuck on the unsticking part of the operation. I don’t know what they put on there on the last build but it’s not coming apart with a mallet either. As I beat on the head, it just moves everything around on the base...