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Put the glued rotor back on the bike, it started right up. Never managed to find the old magnet but so it goes. Hopefully this one stays put!

Magnet is definitely gone but I uhhhhh, can't find the old one? I looked all over the rotor/stator area. I even removed the pickup coil and timing plate, thinking that the rogue magnet might have stuck to the back of a bolt. Anyway, I filed down the old adhesive, cleaned it off, and then jb...

Last week on my way back from AMA Vintage Days I pulled into a gas station, hit my kill switch, turned off the bike and filled up t he tank. After gassing up the bike would turn over, but it wouldn't even try to start. The voltmeter off the key switch showed more or less 12v. I didn't have much...

I will be there with my '81.

You can remove the TCI without taking the battery box off. It's attached to the underside of the battery box with a couple of bolts. It might be helpful to relive the regulator/rectifier or the little storage compartment on the right hand side to get to it. For what it's worth, I had a bad TCI...

Yeah, it was the ignitor box. What made it complicated what l was that I replaced the title first and the aftermarket rotor was not sending a string enough trigger signal. I put the old rotor back on and it was all good.

You caught me!

Installed a new dash with voltmeter integrated. Used a spare dash and did some cutting and fab work. I *barely* managed to mount it under the triple tree by slotting the mount points.

Yeah, I have some JIS screwdrivers, but nothing as nice as this!

Post #45 has 2 pictures of the rotor that was on the bike when I bought it. The rotor has a glued on magnet. Is that the photo you need? Is there a thread in the forum about the non-stock magnets? I'd be interested to read it.

Yes. The old rotor did have a magnet on it.

The ignition not advancing was what i mentioned above as choppyness. My replacement rotor was in, and it didn't trigger the ignition right. I put my old rotor back in, and the ignition timing advanced as it should.

I'm pretty sure that it was the ignitor box for the ignition that was causing all the grief. The ignition 'choppiness' was caused by the replacement rotor trigger signal. The weak charging was probably grounding issues through the wiring harness, but I'm less certain about that.

Weird. My RLU is bypassed, and it was before i replaced the harness so I've never looked at it in detail. I did figure out what was wrong with my gauge lights though. The blue gauge light positive wire was connected from the speedo straight through to the tachometer, with no other connections...

I'm thinking it was probably the cats idea! Source: have owned cats before.

Ok. Good to know that 12.3 or thereabouts isn't unusual. I find varying amounts when I look through the forum. Since I haven't really had this bike running much, I don't have a great sense of 'normal' Thanks! I'll check that clip on both sides and confirm all the grounds are good. I actually...

Last night I cleaned the slip rings and put an extra ground from where the RLU unit used to be to the battery strap. I also put in led taillights. It didn't make any difference in the charging voltage at idle. I also tried unplugging the headlight at idle. It didn't make a huge difference...

Battery is new this year, and I took it back and had it tested- it's good. Keyswitch meter shows 12.3 idle, 11.9-12 with brake plus turn at idle What should I expect to see at idle with brake + flashers? From where to where? Are saying you put a separate ground on the TCI box, or that you ran...

I'm with you on the grounds, but I'm not sure where to check. I tested everything to the ground strap on the battery. Headlight bucket to battery strap is good. harness ground at frame/coil is good to the battery strap engine strap to frame up under the tank is good I'm not sure what to check...

I tried again with the meter between the battery leads, and between battery + and ground. I got good readings this time. Not sure how I buggered it up last time. 13V @ batttrery with bike off 1400RPM Key 13.1 Battery 13.3 ~1800RPM Key 13.5 Battery 13.6 3500RPM Key 14.4 Battery 14.4 4000RPM Key...