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Ok if it was working then the chances are you will get it working without too much outlay.

Yes please show us both ends. You will also need to test the resistances of the pick up windings, stator windings and rotor. Also check the alternator brushes are in good working order. If they all test to spec you can work out what else you need. Have a read of the charging system guide in the...

Most people using VM Mikuni carbs use 34. For VM 34 carbs set up to run (but may need some tuning) buy from 650 Central or Gary Hoos Racing. Gary is still selling carb according to his website. http://www.650central.com/carb.htm http://hoosracing.com/

Ha I just rewired a bike that was wired using that diagram.

Dont give up yet. Yes you can convert to points but will need some extra parts. I think this would be a last option and the money could be spent getting a better overall ignition. Another question do you have the rest of the TCI system, rotor with magnet, crank pick up. If so then a Gonzo...

Sorry no practice at removal or install with motor in situ. For removal the case does require considerable time in the bbq (heat) for them to fall out. To remove I would be inclined to remove the motor and split the cases . Sometimes the long way is a shortcut, if you try to drive the post out...

In my experience BB kits they are pretty much bolt on and go. This is with the proviso that your bottom end is in good order and that you should always check all clearances. Lots of ways answer your question all with different prices attached: big bore kit including large fin barrel, big bore...

Some time later: I got the motor cases back and assembled the motor then did some final checks on the squish clearance.Yes I know I have already checked this but when you start playing round with clearances getting it wrong is expensive. I set the timing to 1.8mm BTDC. Cleaned and assembled the...

OEM japanese is pretty hard to beat for quality and durability. Find a bike that would be a good donor and buy the parts you want from a wrecker (boneyard). 5Twins has given some options already.

I think when finished the Honda tank will look pretty smart above the XS motor. Although perhaps you could extend the back a bit so it can go further forward. The extension could be just a facade and need not hold fuel. A friend did that to a Tracker tank and it made the tank look a perfect...

That will come up nicely, I know of 2 T350's neither as tidy as yours. Both local bikes slated to be classic racers.

Edited : more detail added. ts such a to do to remove the starter post most people leave it in. You do have to split the cases to install the transfer shaft (#10 in post 6) you can remove the bottom case without removing the top end. Just remove the 8 x 17mm stud nuts on the top and the bolts...

Try Citric Acid on a test piece. It comes in powder form from Garden supply shops. Also 0000 wire wool and oven cleaner works but needs elbow grease. I would be wary of electrolysis and chrome. I believe there are toxic by products and it would be difficult to only do one side of an item.

Lemon juice, it will also soften the dried fuel "varnish" in carb bowls. Put the lemon juice and jets in a class jar inside an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water, sort of like a double boiler. Use a strand of copper wire to clean holes. Sometimes though you have to replace them.

Welcome. You wont go wrong with the right sized Yuasa. I have a YTX14AH(L)-BS in my road bike.

For the front use a wire wheel XS 650 hub. For the rear a friend of mine's son got a rear hub from a XV500 virago (some models had wire wheels) for his XV500. No idea if it would fit an 850 rear drive but given that a lot of parts do interchange it could be worth researching. Check the part...

Thank you and yes I will keep the wire wheels. They came with the package of 1 bike and 1 parts bike I bought. They are from a Japanese market GX 750 that was not sold in NZ and pretty rare. They have been rebuilt with new rims and spokes. The cost was eye watering.

Hi Eugene, it has been such a long time since I did this I am struggling to remember. I did make a large spacer to bring the XS disc out further, and drilled the new hanger to suit the larger 850 axle. I cant remember what year the caliper and hanger came off but if you look at post number 18...

The following has taken place over a number of days since my last post and is in approximate order of events. Made a rough stand and started on the engine. Taking the head off I found that the head gasket is a thin copper one that can be annealed and used again. The head looks to be crack free...

I like that idea, thinking it could be used for a PMA and Gonzo ignition set up.