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I saw the same thing, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something different or wrong with the $157 less version, or would I be getting something for my $157 if I were to order the more expensive, looks like the same kit to me as well. Just wanted to confirm.

I see this it on 2 different sites... https://yamahaxs650.com/product/447-big-bore-kit-80mm-750cc/ https://xs650direct.com/products?make=22&year=17&model=128&search_query=big+bore Any thoughts on the difference in price? I close to pulling the trigger, obviously the $450 version looks better at...

Put on about 75 miles on back roads, several stop signs, 60-65 mph when moving. It starts and warms up much better, still stumble off idle for a couple miles or so when first riding after startup, once past that, never missed a beat or stumbled off a stop sign. The idle is running around...

I finally got the correct plugs (Vintage sent the wrong ones first, took care of it quickly though.), wire to build a harness, GN250 module, coil, everything I need. I'm planning in leaving the points/coils installed for now, i'll unplug the power to the old coils and run power to the module...

Its definitely better, a "smoother" feel though out the rpm range. I have all of my stuff to add TCI ignition with the GN250 module, I'm planning in leaving the points/coils installed for now, i'll unplug the power to the old coils and run power to the module from there. I'm looking at mounting...

Got my carb body drilled and tapped for 8-36 x 1/2" screws, got new bowl gaskets. I also invested in a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner and cleaned them at 80 C for an hour, I had cleaned them manually and feel like I got them pretty clean but figured I'd get lots of use out of it, I used 1 part dawn...

I just stumbled across a youtube video on this stuff, I have done a similar thread repair using JB Weld and spraying the bolt with WD40 or silicone, I got 8-36 (I had thought it was 8-32 but found that thread again) screws and a bottoming tap so I'll put those in.

The threads are stripping out, I’m using longer screws with socket heads where I can, I need to cut a couple for under the choke. A few more disassemblies and they’ll be stripped. I found a thread on here where you make an 8-32 thread chaser and go up to those. 10-32 will work too though. I know...

I went through my choke circuits, they are both open, I couldn't tell for sure if they were blocked or not, but I can spray freely both directions through the choke circuit in the bowl. It seems like the cold start after that was better, it still is cold blooded, stumbling off idle until...

Here is the one I watched regarding the linkage, it doesn't have much other than that, There are tons of others though. I learned the most from this thread and 5twins. Thank so much for sharing your experience. I search this forum several times a day, I have better luck finding things searching...

I was roaming around the interwebs looking for info on BS38 choke stuff, stumbled on to a youtube video on maintaining the linkage parts of the 76 style choke. I went out and checked and mine was not moving that well, I could easily get them to hang just a little open. I lost my original choke...

Still not awesome on cold start, fires right up on choke, after 10 seconds or so, starts popping through exhaust on the left side, turning choke off and back on seems to perk up the idle, another 30 seconds or so it will idle off choke. I’m not very bright and forgot all about going through the...

I bought a new choke lever from mikes, I had the same issue and solved it the same way, I ground a little off the pin and the bent both the lever and the slotted piece on the choke shaft in, towards the carb body, a little bit, now it works good.

Yeah, it’s been a journey, I’ll go for a ride after dinner, it was 96 a couple days ago here, 60 today, welcome to Minnesota. I’ll pick up some tubing and make an oil capsuhelic meter and sync for real, I bought carb boots with spigots when I got new ones.

Put the carbs back on, I haven't checked real float level yet, with completely dry carbs it spit and sputtered on start-up, after 30 seconds or so, the idle was about 2500, I hadn't touched the idle since a couple days ago, I think that's a good sign. I backed that down to 1200-1300 and let it...

Got the carbs off, I didn’t have my phone with me and I need to get them on the bench with better light, but I saw two things in the quick check I did, I sprayed from the pilot port in the bowl area bottom of the carb. I got a lot out of the 3 small holes and the mixture hole on both sides. Too...

Thanks for being very detailed!! Since I put the pods on there is a lot less to taking the carbs off. I'll tackle this in the next day or 2.

I have compressed air, where did you get the needle tips? EDIT: I have some needle tips on order. What’s the best direction to blow out the passages? Through the mixture screw hole? From the bottom with the bowl off ? From the carb bore back through the ports? All of the above?

I think you may be right, something has been wonky with the bottom end for a while, the cold blooded thing, when I first got it running, after I did the carbs, it would fire instantly on choke, no throttle, and only need maybe 10 seconds of choke and be pretty rideable right away, now it’s got...

I put the 30s in and checked for vacuum leaks (non found). I’ve put about 60 miles on today, still seems cold blooded, but I’m learning a routine, start with choke on, no throttle, for a few seconds, choke off briefly, then choke back on, then the idle will pick up and it can idle for a minute...