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i'm pretty sure they are M10 X 1.00, length well that is up for you to measure. I have found them on Fastnal website all besides the very long one on the bottom. Plus they are socket cap bolts which i think are a better look.

You should be running more then one fuse on your bike. Remember the Pamco needs a 7.5 amp fuse protecting that circuit. And as far as soldering i do the same thing you said western union and heat shrink cant go wrong with that.

Hello, I currently running PAMCO rephase system in my bike. Today while riding around the bike quit on me and now i have no spark on either plug. I ruled out the coils and it seems like everything else is okay. I would like to know what test procedures i can do on the PAMCO unit. Currently each...

lol....that was the answer i was looking for. As long as you install the cam right the stroke will be right. RIGHT? Thanks alot. Peace.

On the two cams i have with the notch facing up both lobes are facing up.....i'm very confused

i would run disc all the way if you like to stop quicker......might come in handy

yea thats what i did.... what about what stroke it is on?

what wires are you talking about? Ignition? i'm running pamco. also i dont know if it matters but the engine is rephased.

I installed the cam with the punch mark horizontal and the line vertical to the engine head while the left piston was at TDC. I later read that it must be on the compression stroke when installing cam is this true? Cause apparently i did it on a different stroke.

Maybe we spend to much time talking and fixing our bikes. LOL, Havent seen one around me for 2 years now. Ride Safe Fellas

If you are looking for more reliability it is smarter to separate each circuit by a fuse. For example if you have a short in your lighting circuit and wont tripped out your ignition circuit and leave you or your mom on the side of the road.

im using a 40mm lectron. works great.

let me take back what i said earlier it was a couple loose motor mount bolts. ooops

Nice work brother

might not be the best solution but i put RTV behind it and it works like a charm

A) Its a common problem just renew and make sure all the black stuff is out of the system. Clean your oil pump etc... B)new o-ring C) I would get your cylinders honed, maybe bored and go to the next size pistons. Make sure all your tolerances are good with the connecting rod.

okay...ill take a picture and you can explain it to me. I very curious how it would rust then giving your chemistry lesson.

just to let you guys know all metal eventually rust. So make sure you know what you are talking about before you do. I work on a railroad the train cars are made out of 401 stainless which is some of the best stuff and the cars have holes all over the place. there are all different type of...

no i mean rust. No joking, i can scotch bright it right off but i'm not running it. I doing the conversion to the push style over the winter time.

yea it is...like i said POS