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Even if you keep the battery a PMA has one big advantage, the bike can be started when the battery is flat. Of course when everything is working normally your battery should never BE flat, but life happens.

Old bikes had the front wheel taller than the back, while modern looking bikes have the opposite. Off-road bikes have an even bigger difference in size with the front rim commonly over 20". A scrambler is both an old and off-road styled bike so if that's the look you want you're looking for...

An R1 disc won't bolt on an XS hub but luckily several other modern ones do, Ducati being the most plentiful.

Sorry my brain must have tuned out and missed that you already fixed it. An excess of fuel bowl should throw the mixture towards the rich side, which if anything should cause a dropping of idle rpm when the bike gets hot (possible stalling at lights etc). Strange that putting less fuel in the...

If your carbs leak you need to fix that for obvious reasons, but that's unlikely to be related to your idle climbing. The idle rpm is affected by many different variables. Some stay constant over the course of a ride like the idle screw and pilot screw settings, and others are always changing...

How many beers in when you wrote this gem? 1) this is largely a place where beginners ask questions about getting their 40 year old bike running not the hall of the motorcycle gods or something. We don't have the authority or the influence to change what the world at large calls something or...

People leave their lights on and run the battery flat all the time. It's not supposed to be good for them but I've never seen one incident of forgetfulness completely destroy a healthy battery. I've known brain dead guys who did this over and over again who are still riding on the same battery...

DADDYGCYCLES, Yeah I know they're talking about charging from flat. If you leave your lights on and come back to a dead battery this is what you're looking at to get back to a FULL charge. True that if you battery is just a little low it will take less time and also true that you can charge it...

That's bad info. It actually takes around 12 hours to charge a lead acid battery. It's not like charging your phone or laptop. The real deal on charging lead acid: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

Getting it running would probably double the value. I wouldn't pay more than $500 for any non-runner no matter how clean it looks because there's just no way of assessing the state of the engine. You could do a compression test, but can you believe the numbers? Badly leaking valve seals could be...

Open pipes are known to cause flat spots in the torque curve. There's possibly some rpm at which they're boosting you up above average as well. Holes are the trade off. That and deafness.

Not a chance. How is a bike going to get worn down enough to need repainting the tank, replacing the mufflers, replacing the seat, replacing both fenders, replacing the headlight and so on in one single hour of use after it left the factory? Impossible.

You put capacitors in series when the system voltage is higher than a single cap is rated for. If you happened to have two big 9v caps laying around and you wanted to use them you could if you wire them in series. You'd want to add two resistors, one along side each cap. Without the resistors...

I don't know what kind of steel they're made of but if you wanted to make a set out of a higher grade rod I don't think it's a real precision part or anything. A hack saw, a die, and the rod stock should be all you need.

They're 35 euros per piston at Heiden. Not sure they're compatible with the piston you've got, better take some measurements and get in touch with them.

FWIW these are the R6 forks I mentioned in your other thread mounted on a triumph. (one of Mule's builds). except for the little blue nut at the top I don't see much difference between that and an older fork.

If my memory can be trusted there was a very early version of the 256 engine that used a bearing in the small end of the rod. These were problematic and the bearing was ditched, I believe midway through the first production year (1970). Parts for the 256 engines are often harder to find or more...

If you end up with an old bike one thing the early frame does have going for it is a shorter neck tube, so putting a modern set of forks on it is just a bearings and washers swap. The later frame has an oddly long tube that's more of a hassle. High quality forks that weren't upside-down or...

Everybody has their own "normal" or "acceptable" etc so who knows, you may find it just fine. People ride hard tails with girder forks after all. For context, I think those people are crazy. It's a bit disingenuous though to suggest only a finicky racer would notice the shortcomings of the...

Yeah I have no doubt the fork internals and spindly upper tubes are suspect as well. I parked it in the back of the garage and rode other bikes for years. Not much of a solution but that's the truth. After a while I felt bad for it and got curious how much better it would be with modern...