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sure would like to know the rack and trail before i go a ton on it.

Toms correct, the walls need to have a cross hatch pattern to hold a small bit of oil for lubrication and cooling. The bore is probably not round anymore. Once this starts it will just progress, not at a fast rate but enough to let blow by through the rings. Ive seem them last a long time...

I don't believe it is still owned by the same people (Mike Lalonde). Another company bought,sold and stripped down to bare bones and picked over by the rich vultures. Oh well. When you stand in the way of so called progress you get run over. My 2 cents. Dirty

Well got it working, Thanks for the input. Gordon where do you get 4" shrink tube. Sure would be nice to cover the ring. I don't think the factory intended for us to be in there. Dirty

I see said the blind man. Thanks all for the info. Did the usual search but missed the right stuff. Rust was binding the movement between the drum. Cleaned the glass and away it went. Thanks Dirty

got it apart, cant seem to get the needle to move with the two piece drum. Is it suppose to move clockwise or counter. It all seem to be intact, the lens was dirty but nothing seem to be broken.

anybody know how to take apart this type of speedometers.

isnt the bearing surface heat treated

I don't know a lot of math but i know what perfectly concentric means. Seems the file or hone on a bearing surface will crate a rounded shape.The gear will wear on the sides very fast,(missing bearing surface) round off to a sharp point quickly and make a metal mess in the inadequate oil...

Welcome Tyrus. somewhere there is a very small person missing a sombrero. Nice bike. Sure wish i could find one in that good shape. Trying to do an all original.

Correct XSLeo. I was a little confused for a bit there till i looked at the SM. The control voltage wires are 16 awg. the connection between the positive battery terminal and the starter is 8awg.

Thanks, sure saves me some space. The PO used 8awg fine stranded. Looks like it came off a ford. Dirty

What is the wire gauge for the Battery positive terminal feed to the solenoid for a 1977 XS650D.

I found a place that makes any brake line. Its called Royal Brass and Screw. Aint but 20 minutes away, Knoxville Tennessee.

This brake line is on a 1977 XS650D saws-all spacial. I would like to know if i can do away with the line splitter,(not sure of its nomenclature). Is this intended for dual disc. What are the Cons of doing away with it. Is a continuous line an option or is this a proportioning valve. Where do...

Both set of springs came out of two sets of 76-77 BS38's. The air hole config on the induction side (12,4,8)O'clock. The springs that i have in reserve are 4 3/4. that's a 1/8" longer than SM for 1976-77. Maybe the PO placed them in there for some reason. Thanks Dirty

So the spring is the mechanical means of closing the slide. Stronger the spring the quicker the slide closes, weaker the spring the quicker it opens. Correct. Dirty

Anybody know why there is different spring height. Pro's or con'. Thanks Dirty

Thanks for the input, picked the best parts and got a nice working set. Didn't figure that little would make a difference. thanks Dirty

I have two sets of BS38 mikuni from 1976-1977 era. I have managed to make a good set from the two. I ran across a difference in the diaphragm spring height. The one i have been running is the 4 5/8. The other two measure 4 3/4. This doesn't appear in my SM. I think the 4 5/8 was a standard for...