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‘83 bobber straight pipe carb question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Redman2932, Oct 28, 2017.

  1. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

    sorry if this is already posted but I need some assistance. My bike has yo mamma pipes and electronic ignition. Timing is spot on and carbs are synced to the t. Sent my carbs to old skool carbs for the rebuild and not sure they r right. Takes me a shit ton of kicks to start this thing but once warm runs great. From what I have heard it should only take me 2-3 kicks to start. I’m looking for some advice on what jets to run and how everything should be set. Carbs are not my forte. Thanks all!
     
  2. TwoManyXS1Bs

    TwoManyXS1Bs BBQ Hunter Top Contributor

    Are you using the choke during cold starts?
     
  3. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

    My choke was not set up right and I need to replace the choke cable. I fabricated a manual choke but it won’t stay open and I have to use a spacer to hold it in open position but it doesn’t change anything. Even with choke in 1/4, 1/2, and full I get same results.
     
  4. retiredgentleman

    retiredgentleman XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    Remove the float bowls and take a very careful look at the small orifice (jet) in the bottom of the bowls. Its very tiny and is easily plugged. Make sure it is clear by shining a bright light into one end and viewing the other end.
     
    Redman2932 likes this.
  5. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    To work properly and best, the choke needs to be full on. I'm not sure that knob you rigged up is pulling it all the way open.
     
    Redman2932 likes this.
  6. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    :agree:
    Try petcock in prime position.
    Might be me but I'm not fond of "extra" fuel filters..........
     
    weekendrider and Redman2932 like this.
  7. XSLeo

    XSLeo XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    For a person not familiar with these carb's, I might suggest reading the carb guide. It has helped many people, including me to get their carb's working.
    There is a tuning section that may help.
    Leo
     
    Redman2932 likes this.
  8. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

    I will check that out man. Just didn’t know if anyone knew some jet recommendations. Oldschool carbs set mine up with 137.5 mains and 45 pilots. Hate to be pissing in the wind trying to tune something jetted wrong.
     
  9. Hyde

    Hyde XS650 Addict

    Same boat as you Redman - 137.5, 45, spot on timing, Oldskool rebuild & same pipes. Here it was thought I was crazy lol. 34s w/ enrichner open & kick - if she catches I’m good and it’ll warm but I have to kill the choke almost immediately or it dies. If it don’t start first kick, then it’s 4-5.

    Curious what happens to yours with the enrichner setup disconnected and a wedge of sorts put in there to keep it full open. From cold, do you get and hold a fast idle? As 5Twins pointed out - doesn’t appear your setup would permit a full opening of the circuit. Check the bowl port as RG mentioned. If it is blocked be careful clearing it, you don’t want to mangle the orifice inside.

    I find mine, once warmed up, is a 3-5 kick restart if it sits for less than 5mins. After 5, 1 kick and go. My plugs under ride conditions tell me the jet setup is great, a chop test looked fantastic. Now that cold weather is here - she’s almost a consistent fist kick - but my enrichner is still useless.....I’m rebuilding a second set of carbs with fresh OEM guts that have gone for sonic cleaning as a side experiment while hunting another project bike. If anything comes about, I’ll letcha know.
     
    Redman2932 likes this.
  10. weekendrider

    weekendrider Iron Horse cowboy Top Contributor

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    He could trim the coil wire sheath back some to where it stops right where it exits the clamp. That would give more throw/freeplay to open the starter valves more.
    IF my eyes aren't lying to me again. It looks like the coiled wire sheath extends a good 1/2-3/4 inch beyond the clamp. BUT that could also be a solid rod. Another pic from the other side would help my brain decipher what my eyes think they see.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2017
    Redman2932 likes this.
  11. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

    E6A021BA-69B8-4509-BED8-136AE7A9E07D.jpeg BCCF5678-F64A-4D5F-9AE6-303184F74AE5.jpeg So it was not hitting the coil I second pic but upon further checking it is hitting the carb housing in first pic. Guessing to back off the screw and move the rod clamp out more and tighten back down? Then I will get full open. Will advise once I get a chance to do that.
     
  12. weekendrider

    weekendrider Iron Horse cowboy Top Contributor

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    If you are wanting to convert from cable it is pretty simple using the rod from 80-81 models and the balls and springs from grease zerts. Done 2.
    Or you could do it with the rod I think although I haven't actually got past the thunkin bout it stage on this.
     
  13. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

    I have read a couple post on this and would be willing to give it a shot. Just curious on where spring and balls go. This pics I found were not to clear on that. Just looking for a bit more info on this method. If you have some pics of what you did I’m a visual learner
     
  14. weekendrider

    weekendrider Iron Horse cowboy Top Contributor

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    09-18-08_2146.jpg

    You will need to hold the ball and spring in place with a pic while you work the rod past it.
     
  15. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

    Got it! Thanks for the help! There is a rod on eBay right now for like $50. Seems a bit steep but I want it done.
     
  16. weekendrider

    weekendrider Iron Horse cowboy Top Contributor

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  17. Redman2932

    Redman2932 ‘83 Bobber

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