1. Dismiss Notice
  2. Hey Facebook people... We've created a group for XS650.com members to connect. Check it out!
    Dismiss Notice

“Garage built, shed built”... stable built!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Bewarethemoon, Aug 14, 2019.

  1. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I don't think so. A tube would prolly minimize it, but you'd still get a little movement.
     
    gggGary likes this.
  2. Bewarethemoon

    Bewarethemoon XS650 Addict XS650.com Supporter

    I would imagine if you were to remove too much material from the factory welds then it could weaken the swingarm.

    I added weld to the areas that I shaped & smoothed, the last thing I wanted to end up with was a weaker swingarm. The TX750 arm was an alternate to bracing a XS swingarm.
     
    gggGary and Jim like this.
  3. Bewarethemoon

    Bewarethemoon XS650 Addict XS650.com Supporter

    So I’m almost done polishing the small parts I have at the moment and about ready to start cleaning up my fork lowers.

    I plan to strip the factory clear coat and then remove the mudguard/fender mounting tabs.


    FEC06016-2373-4951-A047-A58E2822763C.jpeg

    I’ll adopt a similar a process as I have on my frame. Cut off discs then onto flap discs on my angle grinder before finishing with emery cloth.

    I have a query though as I plan to polish the lowers after removing the mounting tabs.

    The areas that I’ve removed the tabs from should I work up the grades of emery cloth from coarse to fine? I’m concerned that I’ll leave scratches on these areas.

    Hope this makes sense and I thanks for any advice anybody can offer me.
     
    Raymondo likes this.
  4. willis

    willis xsive compulsive disorder XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I just cut off my caliper Mount lugs on mine the other day. I used a saws-all or reciprocating saw as some call it. Then a flap wheel on my grinder. Then I hit it with a flat file to even out the high spots. Then finish with sand paper. The scratches all came out nice. I still need to hit with a finer grit before polishing but am very happy with the results.
    A88728A5-A424-4783-BAB0-7EF49F0A5B28.jpeg
     
    Bewarethemoon, gggGary and 59Tebo like this.
  5. Norton7d

    Norton7d XS650 Addict

    After I cut off my lugs, i taped up the fork tube heavily so durung the process of removing tbe excess material, the grinding surface couldnt run astray, they I removed layers of tape to take it down further and further.
    I used a small air die grinder with different grades of Rolo-loc wheels do get the tube down to a polishable surface, then took it to my polisher. I also did my best to remove much of the "casting bumps" around the remainimg lugs and lower nooks and crannies.
     

    Attached Files:

    Bewarethemoon and 59Tebo like this.
  6. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Just a note of caution... our XS's can get a bit dodgy without a fork brace of some sort.
     
    Bewarethemoon and Moabite like this.
  7. Bewarethemoon

    Bewarethemoon XS650 Addict XS650.com Supporter

    Sounds like solid advise Willis, what grit of sandpaper did you use, did you wet sand and then work your way onto finer grits???

    Daniel.
     
  8. Bewarethemoon

    Bewarethemoon XS650 Addict XS650.com Supporter

    I’ve read that countess times Jim, my forks are 1999 5EB R6, I’m going to be using a fork brace.

    I’m trying to adopt the mantra “function over fom” I want my bike to look beautiful but not sacrifice performance to achieve that,

    Daniel.
     
    Jim likes this.
  9. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    254___thumbs-up-emoji.png
     
    Bewarethemoon likes this.
  10. willis

    willis xsive compulsive disorder XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I believe it was just 220. It’s all I had on hand. I’ll get some finer grit to do the wet sanding with. I’ve got the cheap Harbor Freight polishing kit for my drill. That and some Blue Magic polish compound should do the trick.
     
  11. Bewarethemoon

    Bewarethemoon XS650 Addict XS650.com Supporter

    I really like the idea of using tape to clearly distinguish where material needs to be removed, did you start with a few tight wraps and then remove a layer as you progressed to a finer finish???
     
  12. Bewarethemoon

    Bewarethemoon XS650 Addict XS650.com Supporter

    I’ve begun the length process of cleaning up and polishing my 1999 R6 fork lower legs.

    I’m not going to be running a mudguard so I wanted to removed their mounting lugs and clean up any casting flaws.

    So far I’ve got the right leg ready for paint stripping.

    60B31D16-9996-413C-9365-B0B515C5C83E.jpeg

    The untouched left leg with casting flaws.

    A7D57B4C-FFB0-49FA-BF8F-50C7AFC53B0F.jpeg

    The right leg after a couple hours work.

    6AD4E7D9-4ADB-42A3-9FBB-8D710F31FDFF.jpeg
     
    59Tebo and Jim like this.
  13. Norton7d

    Norton7d XS650 Addict

    Jim, I had the bracing on my TX swingarm closed in and prettied up. Did this with the swingarm braced up with 3/4" in threaded rod with nuts holding the width in place, acting like axle while heat was applied.
    Did this, tjou2gjt everythimg would be fine, I even had it moved outward an extra 1/8 inch. Welding completed, it cooled over an hour and I started my paint work, had no reason to think ot would close back up. Well a week later after paint is cured and I go to install rear wheel and the damn thing closed in, not just the 1/8 I added but probably another 3/16!
    Putting rear wheel back on without struggle is impossible.
    I decided to change out rear tire and I had to make a jig to stretch the swingarm out a little just to remove wheel.
    How could this thing reduce rear width after the jig was removed?
    Here a few pics, it braced up and what it took to take wheel back off, using 3/16 angle iron and spreader rods
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    It's just the nature of welding. As the metal heats up on the inside of the swingarm, it will spread open from expansion of the metal. If it's contained in a jig, it'll still induce the stress trying to expand it. Once the metal reaches the molten state, all stress goes away. You can't have expansion stress in molten metal. After welding, the metal cools until it solidifies into solid metal again. Now, as it cools further, the stress is reversed as the metal shrinks from cooling... pulling the tubes inward. Being jigged will minimize movement, but the stress from shrinkage is there nonetheless. As soon as the jig is removed, the tubes will spring inward. It actually gets pretty complicated. All that movement is factored in during the manufacturing/design phase. After that, unless you're an metallurgist, it's a crapshoot.
     
  15. Norton7d

    Norton7d XS650 Addict

    Thanks, so how far beyond spec did u push with your bottle jack to get it to be "workable"? And is your setup now Ok for wheel on/off repairs or chain adjustments?
     
    Jim likes this.
  16. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I don't really remember. From experience I knew it would shrink, so I measured it before welding. After that, I just pushed it out a little, released pressure and measured. Rinsed and repeated 'till I got it back to the correct dimension.
    Yes, it's exactly the same as it was before welding.
     
  17. Norton7d

    Norton7d XS650 Addict

    Ok, well my baby is in the garage with its brace in place, but when I rwkease and remove, it gors right back to its shrunkn state.
    Im pressimg between the axle plates, although u had stated u went up higher. on the actual tubes, so maybe thats the difference? I wouldn't think it would know the difference, stretching is streching, or is it?
     
  18. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Yes, that's why I pointed out you need to apply the force on the tubes. Flat plates deform much easier than tubes. All you're doing is deforming the plates (that thankfully, spring back). You would permanently deform the plates before the tubes will give up a mm. You have to apply the force on the tubes themselves.
     
  19. Norton7d

    Norton7d XS650 Addict

    It all makes sense....now.
     
    Jim likes this.
  20. Norton7d

    Norton7d XS650 Addict

    Well Jim, I have tried and tried to spread the tubes with a jack, and do it but once the jack removed the tubes go back.
    I'm about 1/4" short of being at stock width....
     

    Attached Files:

    Jim and Bewarethemoon like this.

Share This Page