Got up to 1500 grit this evening, the end is in sight!
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“Garage built, shed built”... stable built!
- Thread starter Bewarethemoon
- Start date
2000’s done! So close!
+1 on turtle wax. Those fork legs look awesome.
I have been wondering if I’m overdoing it with the the wet sanding?
I’ve seen prices from guys offering polishing and there’s no way they can be spending anywhere near as long as I am.
I’m thinking it’s my inexperience and OCD nature leading me to not trust the polishing wheels? Could I see similar results to wet sanding with mops and more abrasive compounds?
Because I removed a few mounting lugs and smoothed out casting flaws I figured I should work slowly through the grits by hand to remove scratches & get a smooth, flat surface to polish.
Have I spent more time doing it this way when I could of achieve the same results using a machine?
Well yes, but you usually can't eliminate all the sanding. I sand much less than I used to but it's still needed in some spots. I use mostly power stuff now, the grit impregnated nylon bristle wheels, Nylox I think they're called, and Roloc discs in a die grinder. The sanding in spots is usually to remove some scratching left by those tools, but I still don't get much below 400. Usually 320 to remove the scratches, then 400 to smooth it out more, then on to the buffing wheel.
Thanks 5twins, that’s exactly the type of knowledge I’ve been waiting to hear, I’ve removed the anodising from my Cognito Moto triple trees and they’re next in line for polishing once the forks are done. I’ll try out what you’ve told me tonight and report back when I get onto them.
I should get the left leg wet sanded to 2500 tomorrow night, then it’s disassembly and polishing
All done wet sanding through to 2500 grit. Super happy to be finished although I feel a little silly for taking so long, especially after 5twins reinforced what I reluctantly suspected!
I’m learning as I go and that’s the point. At least this level of commitment should sit me well when it comes to head porting.
Hoping to disassemble tomorrow night so I have a little research to do tonight.
I’m learning as I go and that’s the point. At least this level of commitment should sit me well when it comes to head porting.
Hoping to disassemble tomorrow night so I have a little research to do tonight.
Splendid!
Tonight I got one leg disassembled and cleaned.
It’s partner was proving trickier to take apart, need to re-evaluate and upgrade a couple hand tools.
I’m not embarrassed to admit that I’m quite pleased with myself for what I’ve achieved so far.
I’ve never tangled with suspension forks before whether it be on a bicycle or motorcycle. It’s always been rigid forks for me from my 2 decades of BMX riding.
It’s partner was proving trickier to take apart, need to re-evaluate and upgrade a couple hand tools.
I’m not embarrassed to admit that I’m quite pleased with myself for what I’ve achieved so far.
I’ve never tangled with suspension forks before whether it be on a bicycle or motorcycle. It’s always been rigid forks for me from my 2 decades of BMX riding.
Yes, a fork rebuild or overhaul is a lot like the same on carbs - it's like 99% about the cleaning. In particular on forks, I like to get the lowers thoroughly cleaned out inside. There's usually a lot of sludge built up in the bottoms and it doesn't come out when they're simply drained. You have to get in there and swab it out. Engines can do the same, build up sludge inside, but getting the oil really hot before draining washes a lot of that out. Forks aren't like that, they don't get hot, so the sludge remains.
To facilitate cleaning the insides, I made up a "special tool". This is nothing more than a length of 1/4" rod with a little eye bent in one end to thread a rag through .....
Wrap the rest of the rag around the rod, dip it in solvent, and swab away to your heart's content .....
You can get the insides clean as a whistle.
To facilitate cleaning the insides, I made up a "special tool". This is nothing more than a length of 1/4" rod with a little eye bent in one end to thread a rag through .....
Wrap the rest of the rag around the rod, dip it in solvent, and swab away to your heart's content .....
You can get the insides clean as a whistle.
Yes, a fork rebuild or overhaul is a lot like the same on carbs - it's like 99% about the cleaning. In particular on forks, I like to get the lowers thoroughly cleaned out inside. There's usually a lot of sludge built up in the bottoms and it doesn't come out when they're simply drained. You have to get in there and swab it out. Engines can do the same, build up sludge inside, but getting the oil really hot before draining washes a lot of that out. Forks aren't like that, they don't get hot, so the sludge remains.
To facilitate cleaning the insides, I made up a "special tool". This is nothing more than a length of 1/4" rod with a little eye bent in one end to thread a rag through .....
Wrap the rest of the rag around the rod, dip it in solvent, and swab away to your heart's content .....
You can get the insides clean as a whistle.
Thanks for the advice 5twins! I’ll definitely try your technique and I’m all for homemade tools.
I sprayed a little brake cleaner inside and let it sit for 5 minutes before rinsing it off, then I washed in warm, soapy water. It seemed to be pretty clean inside
After I’ve finished polishing I will give it a thorough clean, I’ve ordered a bunch of different size pipe cleaners and I’ll use these alongside your technique.
There’s something very rewarding in working on the forks to this level! Brake callipers next!
I spent an hour with a green compound and a white close stitched mop.
I feel I would benefit from a larger diameter mop, mine are 4”, I feel 6” would be more appropriate?
I feel I would benefit from a larger diameter mop, mine are 4”, I feel 6” would be more appropriate?
You're achieving brilliant results!
It would probably help starting with some coarser buffing compound as well (brown or black). That will more readily remove any sanding scratches. I use the very coarse black emery most, and always start with it. Then it's on to the 2nd coarsest, the brown Tripoli. Then I will sometimes finish with the white high polish compound, but usually not. After the brown, I'm usually pretty happy.
I've constructed myself a little portable rolling "buffing station". I have 6" and 8" buffers mounted on it. The two 8" wheels get used for the heavy buffing with the black compound. The stitched 6" wheel is for the brown compound and the "loose" 6" wheel is for the white .....
The buffers aren't really good ones, just the ones from HF. The 6" one is a bit weak and can be slowed down if you push the piece into it too hard. The 8" one works much better and seems more than powerful enough. Unfortunately, they discontinued it, lol.
I've constructed myself a little portable rolling "buffing station". I have 6" and 8" buffers mounted on it. The two 8" wheels get used for the heavy buffing with the black compound. The stitched 6" wheel is for the brown compound and the "loose" 6" wheel is for the white .....
The buffers aren't really good ones, just the ones from HF. The 6" one is a bit weak and can be slowed down if you push the piece into it too hard. The 8" one works much better and seems more than powerful enough. Unfortunately, they discontinued it, lol.
Thanks Raymondo! I’m pleased with how they’re looking. Going to try a blue compound with a loose mop
It would probably help starting with some coarser buffing compound as well (brown or black). That will more readily remove any sanding scratches. I use the very coarse black emery most, and always start with it. Then it's on to the 2nd coarsest, the brown Tripoli. Then I will sometimes finish with the white high polish compound, but usually not. After the brown, I'm usually pretty happy.
I've constructed myself a little portable rolling "buffing station". I have 6" and 8" buffers mounted on it. The two 8" wheels get used for the heavy buffing with the black compound. The stitched 6" wheel is for the brown compound and the "loose" 6" wheel is for the white .....
The buffers aren't really good ones, just the ones from HF. The 6" one is a bit weak and can be slowed down if you push the piece into it too hard. The 8" one works much better and seems more than powerful enough. Unfortunately, they discontinued it, lol.
I’m open to testing out different combinations of compounds & mops, cheers for the advice 5twins!
This is my little setup
Yes... very shiny.
I used an old pull along tool box. All supplies go in the box and I wheel it out to the driveway to make my mess.
It's about a gazillion yrs old, so the data plate's missing. I think it's a 1/3hp? The wheels (both now) are 8" X 5/8" arbor. It's plenty strong enough for the 8" wheels.
